RE: OT Cable markings

["Brian G. Reynolds" <brian.g.reynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Frank, how you doing?

The new cable length is only about 2 foot longer but I have tried a whole
r=
eel and it worked, to a thickie like me it does sound something like
signal=
loss but there only seems to  be the problem when in the wiring loom.

As the connector has pins/sockets I even tried a working length of wire
and=
fitted in a pin/socket to see if that would work, seemed to....but not in =
the loom.

I thought maybe the Thermocouples in the EGT senders may be causing
interfe=
rence but that is beyond me.

The existing cable does seem to be very thin and flexible so does not give
=
me the impression of being screened, also there is no electrical
connection=
between the croc clip and wire and into the tacho casing, no bare wires ju=
st the croc clip wrapped around the outer insulation and the other end
into=
the tacho case lies up against a slither of metal on the circuit board and=
again no bare wire contact.

Does that make sense??

The Meerkats are as entertaining as ever but still smell!

Be good,

B.

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Mc Alinden [mailto:fmcalind@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 20 February 2005 21:07
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [ukha_d] OT Cable markings



Hi Brian
Normally tacho generators would be wired in shielded
cable.....also is the cable much longer...?? as the signal would be quite
small....(i think).........get some single core shielded and try...
HTH
Frank
PS..........Hows the meerkats going ;-)
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Brian G. Reynolds" <brian.g.reynolds@xxxxxxx>
To: "Ukha_D (E-mail)" <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 6:23 AM
Subject: [ukha_d] OT Cable markings



I am connecting a digital tacho to my hovercraft engine HT lead using the
attached cable which has a crocodile clip on the end, works fine, but the
cable is too short.

I have since tried all sorts of cable but nothing seems to work all the
time...

As I understand it you get a wire and leaving the insulation in place wrap
the cable around one of the HT leads to form a coil, this then picks up the
pulse and transfers it to the tacho? right?

I needed an 8 core cable for all the electrics but as I could not find
anything suitable cable I used 4 lengths of 2 core double insulated cable
used for bedside lights all enclosed together with spiral-wrap.

These wires are used for the following...
EGT (Exhaust-Gas-Temperature) rear cylinder
EGT front cylinder
1 pair for engine cut-out
Last pair, tacho, just using 1 of the core's.

I have fitted the cables from the engine into a connector and out to the
loom thus needing only one electrical connector.

When I connect a wire to the tacho and around the HT lead all seems to work
but as soon as I use the loom I only get about half the rev reading. This
i=
s
not always the case as the results seem to vary.

The original tacho wire has the following written along its length but has
=
a
sort of backwards "R" joined to an "I" between the
E132956 and the AWM,
where I have placed the "*" does all this code mean anything to
you lecky's
out there?

E132956  * AWM STYLE 1015 105=B0C 600V VW1- LL105935 CSA TEW FT1 - AWG 22

Sorry to ramble on but I am confused, this is the last job then its off for
race testing......

Thanks all,

B.