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RE: Re: Consumer Units


  • To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
  • Subject: RE: Re: Consumer Units
  • From: "Brian G. Reynolds" <brian.g.reynolds@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 22:24:26 +0100
  • Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

Thanks Matt, I remember hearing/reading somewhere that you must not put the
LD10's next too each other as they get hot(?) and they suffer from cross
over(?) (true/false)

How much did you pay for the consumer unit?

I have an alley between my house and next door with the meters fitted in
this area, what I was planning was having the house consumer unit fitted
there then fit units for the AD10's at my node 0 in the top room (loft
conversion) the distance between these points will be around 40 feet so
maybe too far as mentioned by Dr John.

I will seek professional help, and talk to an electrician!

Thanks,

B.


PS what is the difference between an AD10 and a LD10?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: matthew@xxxxxxx [mailto:matthew@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 17 June 2001 20:02
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] Re: Consumer Units
>
>
> Brian
>
> Sounds to me like you are at the same level I am. I'm just starting
> rewiring the house and I've got a new consumer unit in place and will
> probably be adding more.
>
> For the moment the new unit is not live but my electrician has taken
> a spur from the existing fuse box so I can switch the new unit on and
> off to test.
>
> It's an MK sentry 2x12 way. The main thing to remember with the
> LD10/AD10 units is that they are much wider then MCB's - the LD10 is
> effectively 3-mcb's wide. Also although it fits on the din rail it
> doesn't slot into the busbar so you need a consumer unit where you
> can take the busbar out so that you hard wire the LD10's in.
>
> HTH
>
> matt
>
> --- In ukha_d@y..., "Brian G. Reynolds"
<brian.g.reynolds@n...> wrote:
> > Thanks Sir, I will discuss with the electrician when he arrives
> (must book
> > him first!).
> >
> > B.
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Dr John Tankard [mailto:john@xxxxxxx...]
> > > Sent: 17 June 2001 15:46
> > > To: ukha_d@y...
> > > Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Consumer Units
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi, whilst at HomeBase I looked at the Consumer Units.
They
> > > > had a split load
> > > > (or something like that) 11 way box for around 100GBP
and an
> > > > 11 way box for
> > > > 25GBP, can someone tell me what this means?
> > >
> > > A split unit has two live and two neutral rails inside
instead of
> > > one, they
> > > also have two isolators one is a main isolator witch cuts
all the
> > > power the
> > > other is contains a residual current sensor which cuts the
power
> to that
> > > section of the panel is the live and neutral currents are
out of
> > > balance, in
> > > other words there is a earth fault.
> > >
> > > If you are wiring from a main split unit you don't need
another
> for your
> > > other consumer units because you will already have
protection if
> you have
> > > taken the supply from the proctecded side of the split unit
> > >
> > > You shold also check the current wiring regs to make sure
what
> you want to
> > > do is ok.
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I have an old house which has just had a new Digital
Meter
> > > > with an isolator
> > > > switch fitted with view to having a modern Consumer
Fitted by
> the
> > > > professionals. then I wanted to be able to take power
from this
> to a
> > > > consumer unit (or 2) at Node 0, I am not sure if this
is a
> > > > DIY job or not, I
> > > > do not have a problem with wiring as long as I have a
diagram
> > > > to follow (I
> > > > could not design the house wiring from scratch).
> > >
> > > It depends. You need to tell the fitter what you want to do,
only
> the elec
> > > board is allowed to make the connection between the meter
and the
> consumer
> > > unit, you have to supply the tails. Also there is a maximum
> distance, I am
> > > not sure but i think it is in the region of a couple of
feet. So
> > > if you are
> > > going from a MCB in a unit out to another consumer unit you
could
> > > do it. You
> > > will need to work out what load you are going to use and
make
> > > sure the cable
> > > between the units is up to it.
> > >
> > > If you are not sure get someone else to do it.
> > >
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ____________________________________
> > > Automated Home UK
> > > http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
> > > ____________________________________
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
> Automated Home UK
> http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
> ____________________________________
>
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>
>




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