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Re: Consumer Units


  • To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: Re: Consumer Units
  • From: matthew@xxxxxxx
  • Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 19:02:26 -0000
  • Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

Brian

Sounds to me like you are at the same level I am. I'm just starting
rewiring the house and I've got a new consumer unit in place and will
probably be adding more.

For the moment the new unit is not live but my electrician has taken
a spur from the existing fuse box so I can switch the new unit on and
off to test.

It's an MK sentry 2x12 way. The main thing to remember with the
LD10/AD10 units is that they are much wider then MCB's - the LD10 is
effectively 3-mcb's wide. Also although it fits on the din rail it
doesn't slot into the busbar so you need a consumer unit where you
can take the busbar out so that you hard wire the LD10's in.

HTH

matt

--- In ukha_d@y..., "Brian G. Reynolds"
<brian.g.reynolds@n...> wrote:
> Thanks Sir, I will discuss with the electrician when he arrives
(must book
> him first!).
>
> B.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dr John Tankard [mailto:john@xxxxxxx...]
> > Sent: 17 June 2001 15:46
> > To: ukha_d@y...
> > Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Consumer Units
> >
> >
> > > Hi, whilst at HomeBase I looked at the Consumer Units. They
> > > had a split load
> > > (or something like that) 11 way box for around 100GBP and an
> > > 11 way box for
> > > 25GBP, can someone tell me what this means?
> >
> > A split unit has two live and two neutral rails inside instead of
> > one, they
> > also have two isolators one is a main isolator witch cuts all the
> > power the
> > other is contains a residual current sensor which cuts the power
to that
> > section of the panel is the live and neutral currents are out of
> > balance, in
> > other words there is a earth fault.
> >
> > If you are wiring from a main split unit you don't need another
for your
> > other consumer units because you will already have protection if
you have
> > taken the supply from the proctecded side of the split unit
> >
> > You shold also check the current wiring regs to make sure what
you want to
> > do is ok.
> >
> > >
> > > I have an old house which has just had a new Digital Meter
> > > with an isolator
> > > switch fitted with view to having a modern Consumer Fitted
by
the
> > > professionals. then I wanted to be able to take power from
this
to a
> > > consumer unit (or 2) at Node 0, I am not sure if this is a
> > > DIY job or not, I
> > > do not have a problem with wiring as long as I have a
diagram
> > > to follow (I
> > > could not design the house wiring from scratch).
> >
> > It depends. You need to tell the fitter what you want to do, only
the elec
> > board is allowed to make the connection between the meter and the
consumer
> > unit, you have to supply the tails. Also there is a maximum
distance, I am
> > not sure but i think it is in the region of a couple of feet. So
> > if you are
> > going from a MCB in a unit out to another consumer unit you could
> > do it. You
> > will need to work out what load you are going to use and make
> > sure the cable
> > between the units is up to it.
> >
> > If you are not sure get someone else to do it.
> >
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ____________________________________
> > Automated Home UK
> > http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
> > ____________________________________
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >




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