RE: Manual control of LD10/11 was RE: Conventions...

[Mike Griffiths <mike@xxxxxxx>]

Best way to guard against computer failure s to Buy a HomeVision :)
You can get over the problem in a big instalation by having Touchlinc
screens as well
Normally you just use them to fire commands to HomeVision
But if that is out of action, on the rare occasion you might want to work
o=
n
it (19" racks etc)
You can always use Touchlinc direct
At least HomeVision can track it

Why not wire these buttons back to HomeVision Phil ?


Works for me anyway=20
My 2d

Mike

Sent from Home

-----Original Message-----
From: Nigel Giddings [mailto:nigel.giddings@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sun 12 Aug 01 14:18
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: Manual control of LD10/11 was RE: [ukha_d] Conventions...

Phil,

I would concur with Keith on the LD10/11 direct connection. I have just
installed 4 LD10/11's in my front room. This is a trial for a much larger
installation in a new house I hope to start building this year. I have 4
push to make switches, 1 for each cct. and don't find them user friendly at
all. So much so that I run a short script overnight to cycle them to full
brightness so that they do not return to the last remembered Dim setting in
the morning if someone uses the 'Manual' switch on method.

I now control the  Front Room lights via my Pronto and IR receiver and run
things like a 'Goodnight' script which turns off all the A/V equipment and
dims the lights 60 seconds later followed by off 60 seconds after that

The idea of having buttons that represent scenes appears to be the way to
go. Especially as this would allow you to adjust lights in other rooms or
external lighting in conjunction with a scene. I am lucky to have a lot of
trees around my plot and hope to create a few effects with lights so that
when we sit down to dinner you are drawn to the view, even at night. In
you=
r
case one or more scenes could include the curtains being closed. . .

If you re feeling very confident why not have the switches operate
differen=
t
things depending on Sunset, Sunrise, and other variables.

The fact that the software, Homeseer in my case, loses track of the status
when using the 'Manual Method' is also a big drawback.

This does leave the issue of 'Manual Override' in case of Computer failure.
This could be achieved by a number of switches located somewhere else, Node
Zero ?

I have not tried it but it could be possible to common all the LD10/11
Manual connections to a single switch ? This would at least allow you to
turn all of them on and off manually on the rare occasion the PC is down.

HTH

Nigel

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Doxey [mailto:ukha@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 12 August 2001 10:19
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Conventions...

Hi Phil,

If you only ever have 1 lighting circuit and one curtain track in a room
then I would go for the same layout everywhere. ie Curtains on the Right
etc. If you are having multiple lighting circuits I would opt for low
voltage control via HomeVision. Have 4 buttons for scenes OFF and scenes
1-=
4
and a fifth button to toggle the curtains between open and closed using a
layout like this...

1   2
C
3   0

The only advantage of direct switch control of an LD10/11 is that it doesnt
rely on any other hardware.

The BIG drawback is having to cycle through bright/dim to change the level
and the fact that the HA controller doesnt have a clue about what is
happening. Also if you use Homevision to control the lights and curtains
yo=
u
can use a cheap (=A31) relay to operate the curtains and you know what
stat=
e
they are in because the controller set them that way. If all control is via
either transmitted X10 signals or direct input to HV then you will always
keep track of house status.

Keith


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Harris [mailto:phillip.harris1@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 12 August 2001 00:59
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] Conventions...
>
>
>
> Here's one for you!
>
> I am going to use LD10/11's to control my upstairs lights (4 x
bedrooms +
> stairs) and in the bedrooms I also have Swish curtain rails. My plan
is t=
o
> use the modular Clipsal switch systems to control both the
> LD10/11s and the
> curtains from by the doors of the room. (i.e. so that you can close
the
> curtains and put the light on at the same time and location).
>
> My question is, what do you guys think of how the switches should be
> arranged in a two hole plate? Should they all be the same with the
curtai=
n
> switch on (say) the left and the light switch on the right or
> should they be
> done so that the light switch is in (say) the hole closest to the door
an=
d
> the curtain switch in the hole furthest away?
>
> Tut tut ... the things that keep us awake at night!
>
> Phil
>
>
> For more information: http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
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>
>
>


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