RE: iButton Control of your doors!

["Ian Bird" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>]

Hi Mick

Unfortunately I have thrown away the packing but here is a description of
the features.
1) It is a brass effect one although they do the same spec in a gun metal
colour as well.
2) It is a 'thin' lock in width. That is to say the barrel bit is closer to
the door frame than normal. This is  because I am not fitting it in the
usual jointy place in the door. Its only about 1/2 an inch or so though.
The
lock ends up being 1/2 an inch narrower.
3) It is of the automatic deadlock variety. That is to say there is another
little latch above the main lock. When this is depressed by the door frame
when its closed the main latch is locked. This stops the 'credit card' type
of attack.
4) It is possible to lock the handle from the inside using a key. This
stops
the burglars (heaven forbid) from getting out through the door once inside.
I have experience of this from many years ago and think we lost a lot less
ecause everything had to go out through the window.
5) Finally it was 1p shy of 50 quid!

My local Homebase has a display of all these locks but I had to go to Do It
All to get one (figure that!).

I love the bit about turning individual keys on/off in HV. Making the final
connection tonight so more soon unless I blow something up. I have some
etching to do as well but I have been banned to the garage for that after
melting holes holes in the kettle playing with battery acid. Amazing how
wifes and girlfriends don't forget the odd little slip - 15 years ago as
well.

The manual override button simply closes one Port B contact and HV opens
the
lock using one relay driveer (Port A).

More later

Ian


-----Original Message-----
From: Mick Furlong [mailto:dorsai@xxxxxxx]

Sent: 25 November 2000 11:21
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [ukha_d] iButton Control of your doors!


Ian

What model Yale lock did you end up using for this? I really want to
try this it sounds so cool especially the bit about locking out the in
laws ;)

Mick

>cc-concepts iButton access system installed!
>
>From the original post I bought one of these systems from cc-concepts.
I
>bought the basic one which is the circuit board, components, mounting
box
>and 1 button and reader. It was 69 dollars inc shipping but cost an
extra
11
>pounds in UK tax and took 3 weeks to arrive. Most of that was delay in
>shipping from cc rather than travel time.
>
>I was taken back a little as I was not expecting to have to build it
(no
>idea why though). Practise your soldering first as some bits are a
little
>tricky (small). It worked first time though which was nice.
>
>It is now installed with a M*****s fail secure electric lock. The unit
sits
>with homevision and has two types of output if you like. There is a
relay
>which is controlled by the board and triggers when a recognised button
is
>read. I don't use this as I wanted finer control. There are also some
header
>pins which go to 5 volts when specific keys are recognised. 1 pin per
key.
>This means I can determine which key has been presented. This works
really
>well so I can lock the inlaws out unless their visit is agreed (heh
heh).
>The lock opening is driven from HV and the logic as to whether someone
can
>get in is simply flags. So far so good. There is a cat5 cable to the
door
>and all the cores are used for: lock, button reader, override button
and bi
>colour LED. The LED and reader share a ground. I bought some extra
buttons
>(the thick ones as there are two sorts now) and keyfobs from M*****s
for
not
>very much. Since the alarm is home brewed and HV based I use access via
a
>'key' to disarm it.
>
>Ironically the most expensive bit was the Yale lock. This is an
automatic
>deadlock variety to stop forced exit from indoors (i.e. burglar). There
is
a
>manual override to get out button as well but this only works when the
alarm
>is disarmed.
>
>I had two problems with the electric lock. The first was it didn't open
>quite far enough. Removing some of the aluminium stop cured this
problem
>(but don't break the wires as I did cos they are the devils own to
repair).
>The second problem was I was planning to use deadlocks but the electric
lock
>opened to let the door open but then sprung shut via a spring. This
meant
>the lock bit could not get back into the recess. A real pain and the
only
>answer I could this of was a Yale type of solution.
>
>We'll see how it goes over the next few weeks. The power failure
problem is
>simply to go back to the keys. I guess you don't have to carry these
but
>they must be outside......
>
>Ian
>
>p.s. reading this list is great but quite expensive!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Stuart Grimshaw [mailto:stuart@xxxxxxx]
>Sent: 15 October 2000 16:04
>To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [ukha_d] iButton Control of your doors!
>
>
>Farnell have a similar system, but not as complete as the CC one.
>
>Order numbers 735-851 and 735-863 are the decoder & relay board.
>
>
>At 10:11 15/10/00 +0100, you wrote:
>>Just read an article in Home Automator on this device from CC
Concepts
that
>>easily interfaces iButtons to electric door jams.
>>
>>After seeing Michael's iButton in the "flesh" at meeting
4 on Thursday
>night
>>this looks like a nice idea!  Anyone on this list done it yet?
>>
>>http://www.cc-concepts.com/products/ilock/
>>
>>M.
>>
>>_____________________________________
>>The UKs Premier Home Automation Site
>>http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
>>_____________________________________
>>
>>
>
>                                     ,,,
>                                    (o o)
>===============================oOO==(_)==OOo===============================
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>Stuart Grimshaw
>sg@xxxxxxx
>Special Projects Developer   www.schoolsnet.com               t: 07976
>625221
>Schoolsnet LTD                 .oooO  Oooo.                   f: 0870
>7060260
>===============================(   )==(  
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>







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