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Re: Imerge Soundserver
Must be MAPLIN prices
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hammond" <john.hammond@xxxxxxx>
To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: [ukha_d] Imerge Soundserver
> They start at around GBP3K for 2 source units. We should have stocks
in
> next week for delivery for all you wealthy audiophiles ;-)
>
> regards
> John Hammond
>
> CyberSelect Ltd
> making technology useful
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [SMTP:ukha_d@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 22:54
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] Digest Number 285
>
>
> There are 25 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. Re: PC advice (Not really HA!)
> From: "Christopher Williams"
<ccwilliams@xxxxxxx>
> 2. Imerge Soundserver
> From: "John Benfield"
<john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
> 3. Re: [WILDLY OT] Simpsons WAS: Police fence stolen goods on
> Internet.
> From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
> 4. Re: Imerge Soundserver
> From: "John Benfield"
<john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
> 5. Re: Imerge Soundserver
> From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
> 6. Re: Mike?
> From: "Mike Huggins" <mikeh@xxxxxxx>
> 7. IR Transmitter boards.
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> 8. RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> 9. Re: Imerge Soundserver
> From: "John Benfield"
<john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
> 10. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
> 11. Re: Coax install
> From: "Ewen Cameron" <ewenjc@xxxxxxx>
> 12. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> 13. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> 14. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
> 15. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: Keith Doxey <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
> 16. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> 17. RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
> 18. RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
> 19. IR Transmitter
> From: rj@xxxxxxx
> 20. Advice
> From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxx>
> 21. PCB Etching Instructions
> From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
> 22. RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
> From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
> 23. Re: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
> From: James Derrick <james@xxxxxxx>
> 24. FW: website
> From: rj@xxxxxxx
> 25. RE: FW: website
> From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:36:02 -0000
> From: "Christopher Williams" <ccwilliams@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: PC advice (Not really HA!)
>
> Cracked it!
>
> Basic but usefull. I had assumed (incorrectly it would appear) that
> doing a format followed by a sys was the same as format with the /s
> switch! I reformatted the HD again with /s and it booted ok. Left
> it overnight to copy the files again and all is now installed and
> working.
>
> ( I have a feeling that my problems came about because the Startup
> floppy produced by Win98 uses disk compression and sys assumed that
> the HD would also be compressed?? )
>
> Thanks for all your help.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chris Williams
>
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Ian Lowe <ian@w...> wrote:
> > Chris,
> >
> > Simple things to check:
> >
> > 1) Did you format the disk with an /s flag?
> > 2) When you copied the files across, did you copy a new version
of
> > MSDOS.SYS in? (you shouldn't)
> > 3) When booting from the Win98 Floppy, are you choosing CD-Rom
> support?
> > try using none..
> >
> > this may be very basic, sorry...
> >
> > Ian.
> >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > >+++
> > Ian R Lowe. Director, Wintermute Consultancy Ltd.
> > e-mail: ian@w...
> > Onward and Upward! Towards Ascension!
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> > http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:42:35 +0000
> From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Imerge Soundserver
>
>
> Guys,
>
> If you liked the idea of the Dell(?) MP3 server your going to love
this.
> Point your browsers at http://www.imerge.co.uk (look under home
> entertainment). How about a CD/MP3 hard disk juke box with upto 5000
hours
> of playback with upto 16 zone. No idea on price however.
>
> Regards
> John Benfield
>
> PS. One other fact, it appears to be British!!
>
>
>
> --
>
> This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If
you
> are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
> please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
> unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in
this
> e-mail is strictly forbidden.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:52:16 -0000
> From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [WILDLY OT] Simpsons WAS: Police fence stolen goods on
> Internet.
>
> > > Did you see the earlier message on DigiGuide and
ShowShifter!
> > sure did. guess what I'm playing with tonight :)
>
> Ian
>
> How did you get on?
>
> M.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:55:40 +0000
> From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Imerge Soundserver
>
>
> >Guys,
>
> >If you liked the idea of the Dell(?) MP3 server your going to love
this.
> Point your browsers at http://www.imerge.co.uk (look under
>home
> entertainment). How about a CD/MP3 hard disk juke box with upto 5000
hours
> of playback with upto 16 zone. No idea on price >however.
>
>
> Oh B****r, looks like I'm going to have to eat my words. Looks like
the
> product is based on Linux - it'll never work ;-)
>
> Regards
> John Benfield
>
> Now leaving the office to avoid the flaming I'm about to receive.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If
you
> are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
> please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
> unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in
this
> e-mail is strictly forbidden.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:59:23 -0000
> From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Imerge Soundserver
>
> Lovely stuff but something tells me their price list goes up to 20
grand
> for
> some of this kit!
>
> M.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
> To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 1:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [ukha_d] Imerge Soundserver
>
>
> >
> > >Guys,
> >
> > >If you liked the idea of the Dell(?) MP3 server your going to
love
this.
> Point your browsers at http://www.imerge.co.uk (look under
>home
> entertainment). How about a CD/MP3 hard disk juke box with upto 5000
hours
> of playback with upto 16 zone. No idea on price >however.
> >
> >
> > Oh B****r, looks like I'm going to have to eat my words. Looks
like the
> product is based on Linux - it'll never work ;-)
> >
> > Regards
> > John Benfield
> >
> > Now leaving the office to avoid the flaming I'm about to receive.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged
information. If
> you
> are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
> please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
> unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in
this
> e-mail is strictly forbidden.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:29:10 -0000
> From: "Mike Huggins" <mikeh@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Mike?
>
> I discovered I don't have any !!!!!! Doh !!
>
> I need to unscrew one of my own one's to get a good look at it.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ian Lowe" <ian@xxxxxxx>
> To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 1:16 PM
> Subject: [ukha_d] Mike?
>
>
> > Any luck with the sizes of that faceplate, Mike?
> >
> > Ian.
> >
> > =====
> > >+++
> > Ian R Lowe. Director, Wintermute Consultancy Ltd.
> > e-mail: ian@xxxxxxx
> > Onward and Upward! Towards Ascension!
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> > http://shopping.yahoo.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:04:43 -0000
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is anyone
else
> out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew effort and
not
a
> commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about 1.2 inches
by
> 3/4
> of an inch.
>
> I would like some feedback on the connectors people would like
(assuming
> anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and I was
> planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4 pin output
-
two
> lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
>
> I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get something
> workable.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ian
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:05:49 -0000
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
>
> Hi Keith
>
> I took the plunge today and registered the lite versions of Proteus
ARES
> and
> ISIS for 30 quid (special offer). All I have to do now is figure out
how
to
> use them.
>
> How did your etching and circuit building go as below. I have
collected
all
> the bits I now need and plan to have another go this weekend. I still
> haven't got the etching fluid out but I will this weekend (in the
garage).
> I
> have enough for one pint so only one weekends worth.
>
> A quick question. I have lots of clear transparencies from my college
days
> and plan to print on these using a laser. You are talking about opaque
> film - are you referring to ink jet tranparencies which are coated? I
> assume
> this is not ideal if thats what you mean. If not, why opaque drafting
film
> and where do you get it? Will ordinary transparencies do?
>
> Do you print the component outlines and numbers like R1, C1 etc. on
the
> 'top' side or work from a printout. How can these be printed?
>
> More mundane questions i'm afraid but I'm learning fast I think
(hope).
> Hopefully an IR board update will follow next week sometime.
>
> Ant chance of that text file on the etching process. I daresay I am
not
the
> only mug out here trying it out.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 18 November 2000 01:52
> To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos)
>
>
> Hi Ian,
>
> Its now 01:40 and I have finished etching boards for the night !!!
> I started at about 22:00.
>
> I TRIED to make 4 boards.
> I SUCCEEDED in making 2 :-(
>
> The printouts were done on HP inkjet transparencies but were not 100%
> black. Laser gives much better results. I put a sheet of opaque film
over
> the printout to diffuse the light slightly.
>
> I did originally try printing on the opaque film but the ink just
smudged.
> The HP transparancies have a special coating that stops the inks
smearing.
>
> Attempt 1 Artwork and Opaque film
> 8 minute exposure - not long enough. The exposed part of the resist
did
not
> fully remove and the etchant wouldnt touch the board. FAILURE
>
> Attempt 2 Artwork and Opaque film
> 10 minute exposure - not long enough. The exposed part of the resist
did
> not fully remove and the etchant only touched the board in some areas.
> FAILURE
>
> Attempt 3 Artwork and Opaque film
> 12 minute exposure - All the unwanted resist was removed but the
outline
of
> the tracks was slightly blurred and I had 2 or 3 areas where the track
> shorted but that was cleared by scraping with a scribe between the
track.
> FAIRLY SUCCESSFUL
>
> Attempt 4 Artwork Only
> 10 minute exposure - Perfect. SUCCESS
> Crisp tracks and complete removal of the unwanted copper.
>
> Ideally you need opaque drafting film that is printed by laser. The
artwork
> needs to be on the side of the film in contact with the board
otherwise
the
> image gets diffused by the film.
>
> I have a text file that describes the entire process on my other PC. I
will
> email a copy tomorrow.
>
> Hope that helps
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ian [SMTP:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 17 November 2000 15:49
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos)
>
> Thanks Keith
>
> Now the 100 dollar question. A while back I bought a bubble etch tank
and
I
> have had fish tanks before (lots of spare pumps) so no expence there.
In
> fact the tank is still wrapped in its original packing. I also have
the
> mother of all Lasers for home use of which the less said the better as
you
> know. I also have the schematic in Proteus and it prints beautifully.
>
> Now, the bits I don't have
> I am not sure how you are getting the PCB printout (printed on what?)
onto
> the board and the steps to finally putting it into the etching tank.
Can
> you
> point me at any literature or web addresses for this (or explain if
you
are
> really kind). What is the relationship between the light box and the
final
> ferric chloride process.
> I know of one of these UV boxes I can borrow to try it out. All I need
is
a
> little knowledge and one or two other bits i.e. pre-sensitised boards.
> Any part numbers e.g. RS or M*****S so I can read the leaflets would
be
> great.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ian
>
> p.s. sorry if these are really silly questions but you have to start
> somewhere!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 17 November 2000 13:58
> To: ukha_d
> Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos)
>
>
> Hi Ian,
>
> I use photo etching.
>
> Way way back in 1980 I bought a UV Lightbox and used to use drafting
film
> and stick on templates and track tape. A bit fiddly to do but it gives
> excellent results. The track tape is TOTALLY impervious to the UV
light so
> you get perfect exposures.
>
> Develop the pre-sensitised board in Developer (weak Sodium Hydroxide)
and
> then etch in Ferric Chloride.
>
> I now have an excellent PCB/Schematic package called Proteus
> http://www.labcenter.co.uk
> for which thee is a shareware version available as well.
>
> My biggest problem at the moment is lack of a Laser Printer although
this
> will hopefully be resolved very soon. I used to use the laser printer
at
> work but since changing offices we have a crappy printer that has a
habit
> of
> depositing black lines on the image. I think it needs a damn good
overhaul.
> My inkjet printer gives less than perfect results. The image is clear
but
> the black is nowhere near dense enough. This means I have to be
EXTREMELY
> careful with the exposure times or I remove all the photoresist :-(
>
> If you do opt for the Photo etch method BUY THE PRE-SENSITISED BOARDS.
> I had a load of plain copperclad board bought as part of a bargain
pack
and
> decided to spray it myself. I bought the special spray, cleaned the
boards
> carefully, sprayed them in near darkness (not an easy or pleasant
task)
and
> then scrapped the lot. The surface of the boards was covered in
"fish
eyes"
> with a totally uneven covering of resist and after working out the
> difference between pre-sensitised board vs plain board + spray + time
> p***ing about, the pre-sensitised board won hands down.
>
> I did invest in a bubble etch tank last year along with aquarium pump
and
> the results are amazing. The quickest etch times ever with all areas
of
the
> board evenly etched.
> You do need to cover anything in a 1 metre radius with old newspaper
though
> because the little bubbles pop and spash ferric chloride everywhere.
>
> Remember, EYESHIELDS, GLOVES, VENTILATION.
>
> Be careful
>
> Keith
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ian [mailto:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
> > Sent: 17 November 2000 09:36
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos
> >
> >
> > Keith
> >
> > I am making a PCB for the IR circuit at the moment and am
> > just about ready
> > to etch this weekend. If all goes well I should have two
> > pairs by Sunday. I
> > was wondering - your circuit is much more complicated than
> > the IR one, how
> > do you get it onto the copper. I have used the iorn on
> > thingys that are
> > printed with a laser and then touched it up with a pen. This
> > has not been
> > altogether successful. How do you prototype?
> >
> > Thanks for the forthcoming words of wisdom.
> >
> > Ian
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:18:36 +0000
> From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Imerge Soundserver
>
>
> >Lovely stuff but something tells me their price list goes up to 20
grand
> for
> >some of this kit!
>
> Will least it doesn't *start* at 20 grand.
>
> Regards
> John Benfield
>
>
>
> --
>
> This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If
you
> are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
> please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
> unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in
this
> e-mail is strictly forbidden.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:31:18 -0000
> From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> > Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is
> > anyone else
> > out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew
> > effort and not a
> > commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about
> > 1.2 inches by 3/4
> > of an inch.
>
> Very interested, even more so 'if the price is right' (K Doxey, UKHA
circa
> 2000)! I have my brother-in-law checking out the IR LED with an IR
camera
> -
> I think that's where my problem lies. Also it's built on old
breadboard
> which may have dirty tracks etc.
>
> As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if possible) you make
> provision for a diode to offer some protection?
>
> > I would like some feedback on the connectors people would
> > like (assuming
> > anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and
I was
> > planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4
> > pin output - two
> > lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
>
> Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
> https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
> M*****s Part No.NE04 or something similar....?
>
> > I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get
something
> > workable.
>
> Be interested to see. As I progress, I'll try and get some pictures
on my
> site - but for now I think I'll wait for your PCB. My implementation
will
> be a little different, so it should provide some useful additional
> information rather than a duplication.
>
> James H
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:38:05 -0000
> From: "Ewen Cameron" <ewenjc@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Coax install
>
> Same happened to me. They wanted to run miles of coax over skirting
> board to behind my TV and told me that the coax I had under the floor
> would be no good (they claimed it had to be solid - which may be true
> for outside to stop water flowing down it). In the end I got them to
> just run the cable to my patch panel cupboard (on an outside wall)
> and once they had gone I moved the box to my lounge connect to my
> coax. They had fitted something to drop the signal by 3DB which I
> needed to remove to get a good signal.
>
> LabGear do an amplified splitter which needs no power at the splitter
> end (about 70 quid). It can also send IR back on the coax. I have a
> none amplified version running to our bedroom (25 quid). It works ok
> but does not transmit all of the Pace NTL remote buttons. LabGear
> have just been aquired and their site is being re-built. The Pace
> NTL box has a plug for a remote IR receiver but no documentation on
> it.
>
> Let us know how you get on.
> -Ewen
>
>
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Rob West <rwest@i...> wrote:
> > Michael,
> >
> > Sounds similar to what I've got in my house. I just let the NTL
> guys put
> > their stuff in my front room and then sorted it all out (i.e.
moved
> it)
> > once they'd gone. I've now got the cable decoder in the loft -
> works a
> > treat from anywhere in the house with the aid of my remote
control
> > extender.
> >
> > In your case, with no power in the loft, I would leave the cable
> decoder
> > in the front room (also a good time to feed the signal through a
> VCR).
> > You can then send the decoded signal up to the loft and sit up
there
> > with a TV (and a long extension lead) to find out which of the
eight
> > cables is the live one.
> >
> > To solve the "no power in the loft" problem you can buy
a TV
> > distribution system in which the amplifier is separate from the
> splitter
> > (can't remember the brand name, but mine was about 25 quid from
> CPC).
> > This will allow you to boost the signal before you send it up to
the
> > loft in the first place.
> >
> > Hope that helps,
> >
> > Rob.
> >
> > --
> > Rob West +44 (0)1536 201202
> Ext.230
> > Senior Software Engineer rwest@i...
> > Intelligent Network Services Ltd. rob.west@s...
> >
> >
> > Michael Mc Aree wrote:
> > >
> > > My father is moving into a new (& newly built) house
next week
> which has
> > > coax running from the (very small) attic to at least 8
rooms.
> Each room has
> > > a TV point in the corner. NTL have cabled to the front of
the
> house and it
> > > looks as if they have went throught the wall and into one TV
wall
> socket.
> > > This point will definately NOT have a TV plugged into it.
> > > I have been put in charge of getting NTL to all rooms in the
> house without
> > > NTL engineers making a mess.
> > > Can I use the coax in the front room that NTL look to be
using as
> a route to
> > > the attic?
> > > >From the attic I have a bundle of 8 coax cables, none
labeled,
> which must
> > > run to all other areas of the house. Is there a splitter of
some
> sort that I
> > > can use to distribute the feed ?
> > > How do I know which is the cable coming from the front
room??
> > > BTW it will be difficult to get permenant power into the
attic...
> > >
> > > Any help/ideas greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > > Michael
> > > BELFAST
> > >
> > > ###############################################
> > > This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you
have
> received
> > > it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use
or
> disclose
> > > the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The
> contents of
> > > this message may contain personal views which are not the
views
> of the
> > > company, unless specifically stated.
> > > #################################################
> > >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:56:58 -0000
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> >As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if possible) you
make
> >provision for a diode to offer some protection?
>
> No problem - just send the circuit mods and I will incorporate them. I
> can't
> claim to understand exactly how it works yet but I'm game.
>
> >Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
> >https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
> Screw terminals would work fine but they would make the board bigger -
what
> do you think?
>
> Cost should not be a issue - also depends whether you want them
drilled or
> not. This was the worst bit on the prototype prototype (OK, I broke
it!
> (the
> board track not the drill)). As I said this is not a commercial
exercise.
> Just a learning experience for me and some fun.
>
> Lastly, how would you like them housed and is size an issue? Looks
like
> custom requirements aren't going to be a problem!
>
> Ian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Hoye [mailto:jhoye@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 14:31
> To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
>
>
> > Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is
> > anyone else
> > out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew
> > effort and not a
> > commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about
> > 1.2 inches by 3/4
> > of an inch.
>
> Very interested, even more so 'if the price is right' (K Doxey, UKHA
circa
> 2000)! I have my brother-in-law checking out the IR LED with an IR
camera
> -
> I think that's where my problem lies. Also it's built on old
breadboard
> which may have dirty tracks etc.
>
> As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if possible) you make
> provision for a diode to offer some protection?
>
> > I would like some feedback on the connectors people would
> > like (assuming
> > anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and
I was
> > planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4
> > pin output - two
> > lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
>
> Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
> https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
> M*****s Part No.NE04 or something similar....?
>
> > I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get
something
> > workable.
>
> Be interested to see. As I progress, I'll try and get some pictures
on my
> site - but for now I think I'll wait for your PCB. My implementation
will
> be a little different, so it should provide some useful additional
> information rather than a duplication.
>
> James H
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:57:00 -0000
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> When I know the current planned version works I will send you a
schematic
> and sizing. Let me know any changes you want and I will try to
accomodate.
> As mentioned elsewhere this is all about learning for me.
>
> As for building one. I used the original parts list from a way back
inc. a
> CY88. I only really tested that it worked as designed. It was tricky
noting
> angles etc. with my three year old helping to hold the breadboard.
Amazing
> it is still in one piece really.
>
> Am I correct in thinking you want to run multiple LED's (both sorts)
from
> one transmitter circuit. I don't know the answer but power is limited
and
> you may need some form of boost to do this. Ask Keith, Nigel or pretty
much
> anyone but me to see how to do this.
>
> Ian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 14:14
> To: 'I.Bird'
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
>
>
> Ian
>
> My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few
days)
is
> to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the
TSOP
> would also be there.
> 12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
> Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for
visible
> LED
> (confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply to
> 'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one
TSOP
> and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive,
transmit
> or
> both.
>
> The output, then, from the receiver consists of 8 lines some of which
could
> be commoned. 12V supply is also necessary.
>
> Assuming your PCB fits my scheme and they're not too expensive, then
I'd
> buy
> one.
>
> As a matter of interest, have you built one yet? What IR LED did you
use?
> And how wide was the usable dispersion area? You may have seen from
an
> earlier post that the LED I have on prototype board is too narrow.
>
> Regards
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: I.Bird [mailto:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 14:05
> To: ukha.d
> Cc: I.Bird
> Subject: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
>
>
> Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is anyone
else
> out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew effort and
not
a
> commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about 1.2 inches
by
> 3/4
> of an inch.
>
> I would like some feedback on the connectors people would like
(assuming
> anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and I was
> planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4 pin output
-
two
> lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
>
> I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get something
> workable.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:16:30 -0000
> From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> > >As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if
> > possible) you make
> > >provision for a diode to offer some protection?
> >
> > No problem - just send the circuit mods and I will
> > incorporate them. I can't
> > claim to understand exactly how it works yet but I'm game.
>
> I can't generate any diagrams - I loaded Eagle stuff on my machine and
a
> couple of days later NT decided it was going to corrupt my registry.
Until
> I reinstall everything, I'm stuck with a crappy laptop with no space
to
> install useful stuff. Maybe Nigel/Keith can generate an image.
>
> > >Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have
thought.
> > >https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
> > Screw terminals would work fine but they would make the board
> > bigger - what
> > do you think?
>
> Something that doesn't require special crimping tools would be best.
>
> > Cost should not be a issue - also depends whether you want
> > them drilled or
> > not. This was the worst bit on the prototype prototype (OK, I
> > broke it! (the
> > board track not the drill)). As I said this is not a
> > commercial exercise.
> > Just a learning experience for me and some fun.
>
> If drilling, then the pitch should match the connectors. I don't know
(I
> assume there are) if there are standard pitches for connectors.
Obviously
> everyone doesn't necessarily have access to a M*****s. You could
always
> sell the board and connectors as a kit for a small amount to cover
costs
> (are you near a M*********?).
>
> > Lastly, how would you like them housed and is size an issue?
> > Looks like
> > custom requirements aren't going to be a problem!
>
> I'm intending to house the receiver in a 25mm single gang metal box,
and
> the
> transmitter could either go in this box too or a 1 or 2 gang 25-47mm
> plastic
> box in the loft. As long as it fits in one of these I'm going to be
happy!
>
> James H
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:15:05 -0000
> From: Keith Doxey <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> Nick,
>
> There is potentially a serious flaw with your idea if I read it
correctly.
>
> Driving multiple LED's is easily accomplished using extra transistors
to
> buffer the signal. The "problem" with your idea is that of
having the IR
> LED's in close proximity to the TSOP.
>
> When first switched on everything would be fine.
> When the first IR signal is received ALL the LED's would transmit and
be
> picked up by the adjacent sensors which would tell the transmitter to
drive
> the LED's.
>
> At best you would probably have an unstable and unreliable system, at
worst
> it could permanently transmit IR which would ultimately lead to the
demise
> of your IR LED's and also jam any IR transmissions you were trying to
send.
>
> Two Way IR is basically a no-no(Duplex). Bi-directional IR is OK (Half
> duplex)
> You need to ensure that recievers are disabled when IR is being
transmitted
> from the same location.
>
> I would try a mockup BEFORE a full blown installation just incase it
isnt
> going to work.
>
> Depending on how the IR modules were constructed you may be OK if the
> transmitted IR doesnt get picked up by the receiver but I felt I ought
to
> make you aware of a potential pitfall.
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
>
> My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few
days)
is
> to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the
TSOP
> would also be there.
> 12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
> Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for
visible
> LED
> (confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply to
> 'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one
TSOP
> and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive,
transmit
> or
> both.
>
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:29:37 -0000
> From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> >I can't generate any diagrams - I loaded Eagle stuff on my machine
and a
> >couple of days later NT decided it was going to corrupt my
registry.
> Until
> >I reinstall everything, I'm stuck with a crappy laptop with no
space to
> >install useful stuff. Maybe Nigel/Keith can generate an image.
>
> How about it guys. If it's simple even a description works for me.
>
> >Something that doesn't require special crimping tools would be
best.
> Good point!
>
> >(are you near a M*********?).
> Yes but it is a problem to get to time wise. Can be done though. Mail
order
> is my usual approach and not a problem.
>
> As for mountings, I will send out piccys and measurments and people
can
get
> back to me. Lets get it working first!
>
> Ian
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Hoye [mailto:jhoye@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 15:17
> To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
>
>
> > >As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if
> > possible) you make
> > >provision for a diode to offer some protection?
> >
> > No problem - just send the circuit mods and I will
> > incorporate them. I can't
> > claim to understand exactly how it works yet but I'm game.
>
> I can't generate any diagrams - I loaded Eagle stuff on my machine and
a
> couple of days later NT decided it was going to corrupt my registry.
Until
> I reinstall everything, I'm stuck with a crappy laptop with no space
to
> install useful stuff. Maybe Nigel/Keith can generate an image.
>
> > >Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have
thought.
> > >https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
> > Screw terminals would work fine but they would make the board
> > bigger - what
> > do you think?
>
> Something that doesn't require special crimping tools would be best.
>
> > Cost should not be a issue - also depends whether you want
> > them drilled or
> > not. This was the worst bit on the prototype prototype (OK, I
> > broke it! (the
> > board track not the drill)). As I said this is not a
> > commercial exercise.
> > Just a learning experience for me and some fun.
>
> If drilling, then the pitch should match the connectors. I don't know
(I
> assume there are) if there are standard pitches for connectors.
Obviously
> everyone doesn't necessarily have access to a M*****s. You could
always
> sell the board and connectors as a kit for a small amount to cover
costs
> (are you near a M*********?).
>
> > Lastly, how would you like them housed and is size an issue?
> > Looks like
> > custom requirements aren't going to be a problem!
>
> I'm intending to house the receiver in a 25mm single gang metal box,
and
> the
> transmitter could either go in this box too or a 1 or 2 gang 25-47mm
> plastic
> box in the loft. As long as it fits in one of these I'm going to be
happy!
>
> James H
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:51:25 -0000
> From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> Doh...
>
> Thanks Keith.
>
> I hadn't thought of that one, despite getting a feedback loop when
> they were on the workbench! I plan to test it all, in location,
> before doing any soldering anyway, but maybe it's time for a rethink.
>
> Hmm, could I use a transistor in the 'client' module to 'disconnect'
> the IR LED when the TSOP's output pin goes low?
>
> Regards
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: keith.doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 15:15
> To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
>
>
> Nick,
>
> There is potentially a serious flaw with your idea if I read it
> correctly.
>
> Driving multiple LED's is easily accomplished using extra transistors
> to
> buffer the signal. The "problem" with your idea is that of
having the
> IR
> LED's in close proximity to the TSOP.
>
> When first switched on everything would be fine.
> When the first IR signal is received ALL the LED's would transmit and
> be
> picked up by the adjacent sensors which would tell the transmitter to
> drive
> the LED's.
>
> At best you would probably have an unstable and unreliable system, at
> worst
> it could permanently transmit IR which would ultimately lead to the
> demise
> of your IR LED's and also jam any IR transmissions you were trying to
> send.
>
> Two Way IR is basically a no-no(Duplex). Bi-directional IR is OK
> (Half
> duplex)
> You need to ensure that recievers are disabled when IR is being
> transmitted
> from the same location.
>
> I would try a mockup BEFORE a full blown installation just incase it
> isnt
> going to work.
>
> Depending on how the IR modules were constructed you may be OK if the
>
> transmitted IR doesnt get picked up by the receiver but I felt I
> ought to
> make you aware of a potential pitfall.
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
>
> My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few
> days) is
> to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the
> TSOP
> would also be there.
> 12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
> Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for
> visible
> LED
> (confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply
> to
> 'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one
> TSOP
> and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive,
> transmit
> or
> both.
>
>
> -------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
> -------------------------~-~>
> eGroups eLerts
> It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
> http://click.egroups.com/1/9698/3/_/2065/_/974992646/
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> _->
>
>
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 16:29:30 -0000
> From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>
> No probably not, because the whole data bus has gone low, so
> disabling one of the LED's, would disable them all. Which would
> defeat the purpose somewhat. I'm going to stop thinking out loud
> now.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Broughton, Nick
> Sent: 23 November 2000 15:51
> To: ukha.d
> Cc: Broughton, Nick
> Subject: RE: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
>
>
> Doh...
>
> Thanks Keith.
>
> I hadn't thought of that one, despite getting a feedback loop when
> they were on the workbench! I plan to test it all, in location,
> before doing any soldering anyway, but maybe it's time for a rethink.
>
> Hmm, could I use a transistor in the 'client' module to 'disconnect'
> the IR LED when the TSOP's output pin goes low?
>
> Regards
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: keith.doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 15:15
> To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
>
>
> Nick,
>
> There is potentially a serious flaw with your idea if I read it
> correctly.
>
> Driving multiple LED's is easily accomplished using extra transistors
> to
> buffer the signal. The "problem" with your idea is that of
having the
> IR
> LED's in close proximity to the TSOP.
>
> When first switched on everything would be fine.
> When the first IR signal is received ALL the LED's would transmit and
> be
> picked up by the adjacent sensors which would tell the transmitter to
> drive
> the LED's.
>
> At best you would probably have an unstable and unreliable system, at
> worst
> it could permanently transmit IR which would ultimately lead to the
> demise
> of your IR LED's and also jam any IR transmissions you were trying to
> send.
>
> Two Way IR is basically a no-no(Duplex). Bi-directional IR is OK
> (Half
> duplex)
> You need to ensure that recievers are disabled when IR is being
> transmitted
> from the same location.
>
> I would try a mockup BEFORE a full blown installation just incase it
> isnt
> going to work.
>
> Depending on how the IR modules were constructed you may be OK if the
>
> transmitted IR doesnt get picked up by the receiver but I felt I
> ought to
> make you aware of a potential pitfall.
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
>
> My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few
> days) is
> to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the
> TSOP
> would also be there.
> 12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
> Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for
> visible
> LED
> (confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply
> to
> 'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one
> TSOP
> and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive,
> transmit
> or
> both.
>
>
> -------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
> -------------------------~-~>
> eGroups eLerts
> It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
> http://click.egroups.com/1/9698/3/_/2065/_/974992646/
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> _->
>
>
>
> -------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
> -------------------------~-~>
> eLerts
> It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
> http://click.egroups.com/1/9699/3/_/2065/_/974995315/
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> _->
>
>
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 07:59:03 +1300
> From: rj@xxxxxxx
> Subject: IR Transmitter
>
> Went out yesterday and found two places that sell these 3 pin IR
receiver
> chips,. one place sells a surface mount version which is suppose to be
very
> sensitive and our local DSE "electronic kit shop" and they
were selling
> them
> on the shelf, so I'm set to try building the thing now.
>
> regards.
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, 22 November 2000 10:36
> To: ukha_d
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter
>
>
> No.
>
> thats not the sma thing at all.
>
> The TSOP is a complete decoder - 3 legs - +5v 0v output
> what you point at is just the IR sensor part and requires a decoder
chip.
>
> I can supply the TSOP if you wish although I will have to look at the
costs
> of sending to New Zealand.
>
> Keith
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rj@xxxxxxx [mailto:rj@xxxxxxx]
> > Sent: 22 November 2000 01:48
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter
> >
> >
> > Ive started collecting parts for this project, Have tried a
> > couple of places
> > and having probs with the tsop and sharp parts would this be
suitable?
> > http://marketplace.xtra.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/164908734
> > 8/Product/View
> > /Z1956
> >
> >
> > many thanks!
> >
> > -------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
> > -------------------------~-~>
> > eLerts
> > It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
> > http://click.egroups.com/1/9699/3/_/2065/_/974857677/
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > -------_->
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 20
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 20:30:50 -0000
> From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Advice
>
> Hi,
>
> Got my comfort system mounted and making use of its answerphone
features.
>
> The first thing i would like to do is automate all the
hall/landing/stair
> lights using X10 retro fitted to standard looped round lighting. I
like
the
> idea of fluroescent lighting due to longevity/low consumption and
would
> like to stay away from low voltage halogen - sick of changing bulbs.
High
> ceilings so low maintenance is a must.
>
> Any suggestions for X10 devices and light hardware ?
>
> Steve.
>
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 21
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:29:52 -0000
> From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: PCB Etching Instructions
>
> Hi All,
>
> As asked for by others, here are the instructions that came with my UV
> Lightbox that I use for making PCB's
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> INSTRUCTIONS FOR PROCESSING P.C.B's
>
>
> I. Electrical connections to the U. V. Exposure Unit Ref. XRIOL
>
>
> Fit a suitable 3 pin fused plug to the 2 core cable extending from the
rear
> of the U. V. Unit. The brown lead should be connected to the live (L)
> terminal and the blue to the neutral (N) terminal according to the
> international colour code. I.e. with the plug cover removed, the (L)
> terminal screw is on the right and the (N) is on the left.
> No earth is required; therefore the third terminal is not used. Before
> replacing the plug cover, fit a 2amp fuse in the fuse holder across
the
(L)
> terminal and ensure that the cable clamp securely holds the cable.
>
> 2. Preparation
>
> Prepare artwork by applying transfers (see Maplin catalogue Page 97)
to a
> sheet of transparent film Maplin Ref. BW 20W.
> The 1/10" grid sheet supplied with the film sheets may be used as
an
> underlay and as a guide when positioning pads and tracks. In most
cases,
> P.C.B's are designed on a 1/10" pitch system as most components
are
> manufactured with 1/10" pitch mounting pins.
> As this is a "positive" working resist system, the artwork
may be used as
a
> direct 1:1 photo master without the need to produce photo negatives.
That
> is to say that when processed, copper will remain in the areas covered
by
> the black transfers and that the background copper will be etched away
> after
> "exposure" to Ultra Violet light and "development"
in sodium hydroxide.
>
> 3
> Developer Solution
>
> Make up a solution of developer by adding 6 grams (1 level teaspoon)
of
> Sodium hydroxide * to 1/2 litre (a-little under 1 pint) of tap water
in a
> plastic tray. Always add the crystals to the water and not the water
to
> the
> crystals.
> Cold tap water may be used, but it is preferable to raise to room
> temperature
> I.e. approximately 20C.
> The quantity will be sufficient to develop 0.2 square metres. Do not
mix
> more than you require for each session, as the mixture cannot be
stored
for
> re-use.
> Note * Sodium hydroxide (commonly called caustic soda) is available
from
> most High Street chemists including Boots. The specification required
is
> 98
> to 100% pearl.
> See notes below regarding handling of chemicals.
>
> 4. Etchant
>
> Make up a solution of etchant according to the instructions supplied
with
> dry etching materials.
>
> 5. Washing
>
> In addition to the trays of developer and etchant, it is desirable to
have
> 2
> trays of water for washing after each process unless a running water
supply
> is available.
>
> 6. Exposure to Ultra Violet light
>
> Remove a presensitised copper board (Ref. BW20V) from its light
protective
> black plastic bag and observe the copper surface. Unclip the lid of UV
> Exposure unit, place the artwork on the glass plate (transfer side
down)
> and
> then place the copper board (copper side down) on top of the artwork
sheet,
> ensuring that it is correctly aligned and approximately in the centre
of
> the
> available exposure area of the machine. Carefully close the lid so as
not
> to
> disturb the work piece and fasten clips, thus applying pressure to the
work
> piece and ensuring that good contact is made between the artwork and
the
> copper board.
> Switch on the lamps by operating the switch on the front of the box
and
> check that the neon indicator is illuminated. Also check the time and
> allow
> 8 minutes for Ultra Violet light to give suitable exposure. Longer
> exposures of a few minutes are not likely to be detrimental.
>
> WARNING Due to the low power and long wave Ultra Violet emission from
this
> unit, the radiation is not harmful. However it is advisable not to
look
at
> the lamps directly as this may cause some discomfort to the eyes.
>
> NOTE The pre-sensitised panels may be handled in normal room lighting
for
> short periods but must not be exposed to direct sunlight or other
forms of
> strong Ultra Violet light.
>
> 7. Developing
>
> Immerse the exposed board face side (exposed side) upwards in the
developer
> solution for I to 2 minutes until the background is fully dissolved
away
> leaving the circuit pattern. Due to the dark blue/green colour of the
photo
> resist it is a simple matter to see when full development is complete.
> Agitation by gently rocking the tray will help to develop the board
> uniformly and speed up the process. Continuous agitation is
unnecessary.
> When development is complete immerse the board in the tray of fresh
water
> to
> remove the developer solution. Keep the water clean by changing after
> developing 2 or 3 boards.
>
> 8. Etching
>
> Place the developed board in the tray of etching solution until the
> background copper is removed. Once again this process will be
accelerated
> by agitation but may take up to 20 minutes or longer.
> When etching is complete, immerse the board in a tray of clean water
to
> remove the etching solution. Once again keep the water clean by
changing
> frequently. After drying, the photo resist may be removed by adding
12
> grams of sodium hydroxide to the developer solution, thus increasing
its
> strength, and immersing the etched board. Naturally this would be
done
> after developing and processing a batch of boards and before
discarding
the
> used developer solution.
> Alternatively stripping of the resist can be done with normal strength
> developer by exposing the etched pattern to ultra violet and
developing
'in
> the normal way.
>
> WARNING - Handling of chemicals.
>
> The developer and etching solutions may be harmful if not handled with
> care.
> Always use rubber gloves when handling chemicals and solutions. Also
keep
> away from the eyes and face generally. If chemicals accidentally
contact
> the skin, wash immediately with fresh running water.
>
> -----------------------------------
>
> DISCLAIMER.
>
> As I have said before..... the chemicals involved are hazardous and it
is
> up
> to YOU to ensure proper safety precautions are taken.
>
> Keith
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 22
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:29:55 -0000
> From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
>
> Hi Ian,
>
> Etching Instructions posted separately.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ian [mailto:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
> >
> > How did your etching and circuit building go as below
>
> 2 of my boards etched OK. I cocked up the exposure times for 2 of them
so
> they went in the bin. Drilling the boards went reasonably well apart
from
> snapping one of my Tungsten Carbide drill bit :-(
>
> Fitting components and testing tomorrow night......
>
> YES MARK....I know thats slower than I told you but things dont always
> happen like they should :-(
>
> > I still
> > haven't got the etching fluid out but I will this weekend (in the
> > garage). I
> > have enough for one pint so only one weekends worth.
> >
>
> You can save the etchant in a plastic container. I went to the local
photo
> lab and got a couple of their old developer bottles. WASH THEM
THOROUGHLY.
>
> You cant save the developer but its only a teaspoonfull of sodium
hydroxide
> and that is dirt cheap.
>
> > A quick question. I have lots of clear transparencies from my
college
> days
> > and plan to print on these using a laser. You are talking about
opaque
> > film - are you referring to ink jet tranparencies which are
> > coated? I assume
> > this is not ideal if thats what you mean. If not, why opaque
drafting
> film
> > and where do you get it? Will ordinary transparencies do?
> >
>
> Clear transparencies are OK but the image always looks more solid on
opaque
> film. You can get it from any office supply place. Opaque is better
because
> it diffuses the UV so that you get even distribution all over the
board.
>
> > Do you print the component outlines and numbers like R1, C1 etc.
on the
> > 'top' side or work from a printout. How can these be printed?
>
> The Pro boards have a green solder mask printed on them on both sides
and
> then a silk screen overlay on the top to show component placement.
That
> isnt
> easy to do at home !!!
>
> Someone mentioned that a Laser print can be ironed and the toner will
stick
> to the board. Print the image reversed and give it a try!
> You will have to align it properly. Thats probably easiest after
drilling
> so
> you can put a couple of pins through to aid alignment.
> If it works then great....if not...nothing lost.
>
> If it fails then just work from a printout. Print it at 200% so you
can
> read
> the legend ;-)
>
> Hope that helps
>
> Keith
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 23
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:34:55 +0000
> From: James Derrick <james@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
>
> On Fri, 17 Nov 2000 13:58:06 -0000, you wrote:
>
> >I use photo etching.
> Same here, except for hacked together _definitely_ one off boards.
>
> >My biggest problem at the moment is lack of a Laser Printer
although this
> Hmm. I tried laser printers, photocopiers, etc a few years ago.
> Photocopiers were the worst as when the tracks were densely black
> enough, there tended to be shadows elsewhere. Laser printers were not
> bad, however it was easy to damage (scrape) the toner off the master
> especially if you put the board on the toner side of the master.
>
> I found a HP DeskJep 660c with HP transparencies gave the darkest
> master with the best contract. HP film looks rough on the ink side
> (like it's been sanded) and takes ink very well. The black is _very_
> black.
>
> >My inkjet printer gives less than perfect results. The image is
clear but
> >the black is nowhere near dense enough. This means I have to be
EXTREMELY
> >careful with the exposure times or I remove all the photoresist
:-(
> Hmm. Could it be the film is not the best type for your printer? The
> HP stuff I use is more expensive than alternatives, but works.
>
> I did try polyester draughting film as this takes ink well, but is
> opaque.
>
> >If you do opt for the Photo etch method BUY THE PRE-SENSITISED
BOARDS.
> This is something I did wrong for years. Again, quality costs!
>
> Maplin pre-sensisised board was very hard to work with, but the
> aerosol spray was damn-near impossible to use. The thickness of
> coating is just too hard to get even.
>
> I switched to Farnell board, and lo and behold, the same masters and
> chemicals gave perfect results. This board was a lot more forgiving
> with UV exposure, with a wider range of exposures giving good results.
>
> Fine tracks became possible to etch- previously these were
> over-exposed out. One tip is to make a test master with a mixture of
> track widths, and try it with a range of exposure times. This makes
> judging underexposure (copper left), or overexposure (thin lines
> disappear) much easier and scientific.
>
> One other pitfall- I made my UV light box from scratch, getting UV
> tubes from a general supplier. It appears the light from some tubes is
> not 'hard' enough (power? frequency?) for PCB exposure and my boards
> were disappointing. In desperation I splashed out on expensive PCB
> light box tubes, and again the results improved.
>
> >I did invest in a bubble etch tank last year along with aquarium
pump and
> >the results are amazing. The quickest etch times ever with all
areas of
> the
> >board evenly etched.
> Never tried aeration, however I warm the ferric sulphide in a sink of
> hot water then float the board on the top using surface tension. This
> reduces the chance of one portion etching faster than another as
> removed copper salts fall with gravity.
>
> >You do need to cover anything in a 1 metre radius with old
newspaper
> though
> >because the little bubbles pop and spash ferric chloride
everywhere.
> Just 1m? ;)
>
> When no one is looking, work in the bottom of the bath. That way,
> splashes can be washed off the tiles and bath sides. The plug hole
> does suffer though!
>
> >Remember, EYESHIELDS, GLOVES, VENTILATION.
> Also get a cotton lab coat to protect your body- mine has lots of
> chemical burn holes and is rusty brown with the iron salts!
>
> TTFN,
>
> James
> ---
> James Derrick james@xxxxxxx, Cramlington, Near Newcastle,
> England
> Forwarding Service: jderrick@xxxxxxx
> Beyond the Horizon of the place we lived when we were
> young,
> In a World of Magnets and Miracles. Pink Floyd.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 24
> Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 11:41:31 +1300
> From: rj@xxxxxxx
> Subject: FW: website
>
> this is the more expensive of my two options ($10nzd),. only issue I
can
> see
> with this unit is that its surface mount.
>
>
>
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 25
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:53:08 -0000
> From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: FW: website
>
> That looks as if it will do the job.
>
> Down side - will be fiddley to work with :-(
> Plus side - very compact receiver :-)
>
> Price isnt too bad if the currency converter I just used is correct.
>
> 10 NZD = 2.86 UKP
>
> I am selling at 1.50 UKP which I reckon is about 5.25 NZD
>
> Depends how many you need and how quickly you want them but my offer
to
> supply them still stands with postage at cost.
>
> Keith
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rj@xxxxxxx [mailto:rj@xxxxxxx]
> > Sent: 23 November 2000 22:42
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: [ukha_d] FW: website
> >
> >
> > this is the more expensive of my two options ($10nzd),. only
> > issue I can see
> > with this unit is that its surface mount.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
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