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Re: Imerge Soundserver
They start at around GBP3K for 2 source units. We should have stocks in
next week for delivery for all you wealthy audiophiles ;-)
regards
John Hammond
CyberSelect Ltd
making technology useful
-----Original Message-----
From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [SMTP:ukha_d@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 23 November 2000 22:54
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: [ukha_d] Digest Number 285
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: PC advice (Not really HA!)
From: "Christopher Williams" <ccwilliams@xxxxxxx>
2. Imerge Soundserver
From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: [WILDLY OT] Simpsons WAS: Police fence stolen goods on
Internet.
From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Imerge Soundserver
From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Imerge Soundserver
From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Mike?
From: "Mike Huggins" <mikeh@xxxxxxx>
7. IR Transmitter boards.
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
8. RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Imerge Soundserver
From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
10. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Coax install
From: "Ewen Cameron" <ewenjc@xxxxxxx>
12. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
13. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
14. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
15. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: Keith Doxey <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
16. RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
17. RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
18. RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
19. IR Transmitter
From: rj@xxxxxxx
20. Advice
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxx>
21. PCB Etching Instructions
From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
22. RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
From: James Derrick <james@xxxxxxx>
24. FW: website
From: rj@xxxxxxx
25. RE: FW: website
From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:36:02 -0000
From: "Christopher Williams" <ccwilliams@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PC advice (Not really HA!)
Cracked it!
Basic but usefull. I had assumed (incorrectly it would appear) that
doing a format followed by a sys was the same as format with the /s
switch! I reformatted the HD again with /s and it booted ok. Left
it overnight to copy the files again and all is now installed and
working.
( I have a feeling that my problems came about because the Startup
floppy produced by Win98 uses disk compression and sys assumed that
the HD would also be compressed?? )
Thanks for all your help.
Cheers,
Chris Williams
--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Ian Lowe <ian@w...> wrote:
> Chris,
>
> Simple things to check:
>
> 1) Did you format the disk with an /s flag?
> 2) When you copied the files across, did you copy a new version of
> MSDOS.SYS in? (you shouldn't)
> 3) When booting from the Win98 Floppy, are you choosing CD-Rom
support?
> try using none..
>
> this may be very basic, sorry...
>
> Ian.
>
>
>
> =====
> >+++
> Ian R Lowe. Director, Wintermute Consultancy Ltd.
> e-mail: ian@w...
> Onward and Upward! Towards Ascension!
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> http://shopping.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:42:35 +0000
From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Imerge Soundserver
Guys,
If you liked the idea of the Dell(?) MP3 server your going to love this.
Point your browsers at http://www.imerge.co.uk (look under home
entertainment). How about a CD/MP3 hard disk juke box with upto 5000 hours
of playback with upto 16 zone. No idea on price however.
Regards
John Benfield
PS. One other fact, it appears to be British!!
--
This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you
are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this
e-mail is strictly forbidden.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:52:16 -0000
From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [WILDLY OT] Simpsons WAS: Police fence stolen goods on
Internet.
> > Did you see the earlier message on DigiGuide and ShowShifter!
> sure did. guess what I'm playing with tonight :)
Ian
How did you get on?
M.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:55:40 +0000
From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Imerge Soundserver
>Guys,
>If you liked the idea of the Dell(?) MP3 server your going to love
this.
Point your browsers at http://www.imerge.co.uk (look under
>home
entertainment). How about a CD/MP3 hard disk juke box with upto 5000 hours
of playback with upto 16 zone. No idea on price >however.
Oh B****r, looks like I'm going to have to eat my words. Looks like the
product is based on Linux - it'll never work ;-)
Regards
John Benfield
Now leaving the office to avoid the flaming I'm about to receive.
--
This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you
are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this
e-mail is strictly forbidden.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 13:59:23 -0000
From: "Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Imerge Soundserver
Lovely stuff but something tells me their price list goes up to 20 grand
for
some of this kit!
M.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [ukha_d] Imerge Soundserver
>
> >Guys,
>
> >If you liked the idea of the Dell(?) MP3 server your going to love
this.
Point your browsers at http://www.imerge.co.uk (look under
>home
entertainment). How about a CD/MP3 hard disk juke box with upto 5000 hours
of playback with upto 16 zone. No idea on price >however.
>
>
> Oh B****r, looks like I'm going to have to eat my words. Looks like
the
product is based on Linux - it'll never work ;-)
>
> Regards
> John Benfield
>
> Now leaving the office to avoid the flaming I'm about to receive.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If
you
are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this
e-mail is strictly forbidden.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:29:10 -0000
From: "Mike Huggins" <mikeh@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mike?
I discovered I don't have any !!!!!! Doh !!
I need to unscrew one of my own one's to get a good look at it.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Lowe" <ian@xxxxxxx>
To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 1:16 PM
Subject: [ukha_d] Mike?
> Any luck with the sizes of that faceplate, Mike?
>
> Ian.
>
> =====
> >+++
> Ian R Lowe. Director, Wintermute Consultancy Ltd.
> e-mail: ian@xxxxxxx
> Onward and Upward! Towards Ascension!
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:04:43 -0000
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
Subject: IR Transmitter boards.
Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is anyone else
out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew effort and not a
commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about 1.2 inches by
3/4
of an inch.
I would like some feedback on the connectors people would like (assuming
anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and I was
planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4 pin output - two
lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get something
workable.
Thanks
Ian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:05:49 -0000
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
Hi Keith
I took the plunge today and registered the lite versions of Proteus ARES
and
ISIS for 30 quid (special offer). All I have to do now is figure out how to
use them.
How did your etching and circuit building go as below. I have collected all
the bits I now need and plan to have another go this weekend. I still
haven't got the etching fluid out but I will this weekend (in the garage).
I
have enough for one pint so only one weekends worth.
A quick question. I have lots of clear transparencies from my college days
and plan to print on these using a laser. You are talking about opaque
film - are you referring to ink jet tranparencies which are coated? I
assume
this is not ideal if thats what you mean. If not, why opaque drafting film
and where do you get it? Will ordinary transparencies do?
Do you print the component outlines and numbers like R1, C1 etc. on the
'top' side or work from a printout. How can these be printed?
More mundane questions i'm afraid but I'm learning fast I think (hope).
Hopefully an IR board update will follow next week sometime.
Ant chance of that text file on the etching process. I daresay I am not the
only mug out here trying it out.
Thanks
Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 18 November 2000 01:52
To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos)
Hi Ian,
Its now 01:40 and I have finished etching boards for the night !!!
I started at about 22:00.
I TRIED to make 4 boards.
I SUCCEEDED in making 2 :-(
The printouts were done on HP inkjet transparencies but were not 100%
black. Laser gives much better results. I put a sheet of opaque film over
the printout to diffuse the light slightly.
I did originally try printing on the opaque film but the ink just smudged.
The HP transparancies have a special coating that stops the inks smearing.
Attempt 1 Artwork and Opaque film
8 minute exposure - not long enough. The exposed part of the resist did not
fully remove and the etchant wouldnt touch the board. FAILURE
Attempt 2 Artwork and Opaque film
10 minute exposure - not long enough. The exposed part of the resist did
not fully remove and the etchant only touched the board in some areas.
FAILURE
Attempt 3 Artwork and Opaque film
12 minute exposure - All the unwanted resist was removed but the outline of
the tracks was slightly blurred and I had 2 or 3 areas where the track
shorted but that was cleared by scraping with a scribe between the track.
FAIRLY SUCCESSFUL
Attempt 4 Artwork Only
10 minute exposure - Perfect. SUCCESS
Crisp tracks and complete removal of the unwanted copper.
Ideally you need opaque drafting film that is printed by laser. The artwork
needs to be on the side of the film in contact with the board otherwise the
image gets diffused by the film.
I have a text file that describes the entire process on my other PC. I will
email a copy tomorrow.
Hope that helps
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian [SMTP:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 17 November 2000 15:49
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos)
Thanks Keith
Now the 100 dollar question. A while back I bought a bubble etch tank and I
have had fish tanks before (lots of spare pumps) so no expence there. In
fact the tank is still wrapped in its original packing. I also have the
mother of all Lasers for home use of which the less said the better as you
know. I also have the schematic in Proteus and it prints beautifully.
Now, the bits I don't have
I am not sure how you are getting the PCB printout (printed on what?) onto
the board and the steps to finally putting it into the etching tank. Can
you
point me at any literature or web addresses for this (or explain if you are
really kind). What is the relationship between the light box and the final
ferric chloride process.
I know of one of these UV boxes I can borrow to try it out. All I need is a
little knowledge and one or two other bits i.e. pre-sensitised boards.
Any part numbers e.g. RS or M*****S so I can read the leaflets would be
great.
Thanks
Ian
p.s. sorry if these are really silly questions but you have to start
somewhere!
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 17 November 2000 13:58
To: ukha_d
Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos)
Hi Ian,
I use photo etching.
Way way back in 1980 I bought a UV Lightbox and used to use drafting film
and stick on templates and track tape. A bit fiddly to do but it gives
excellent results. The track tape is TOTALLY impervious to the UV light so
you get perfect exposures.
Develop the pre-sensitised board in Developer (weak Sodium Hydroxide) and
then etch in Ferric Chloride.
I now have an excellent PCB/Schematic package called Proteus
http://www.labcenter.co.uk
for which thee is a shareware version available as well.
My biggest problem at the moment is lack of a Laser Printer although this
will hopefully be resolved very soon. I used to use the laser printer at
work but since changing offices we have a crappy printer that has a habit
of
depositing black lines on the image. I think it needs a damn good overhaul.
My inkjet printer gives less than perfect results. The image is clear but
the black is nowhere near dense enough. This means I have to be EXTREMELY
careful with the exposure times or I remove all the photoresist :-(
If you do opt for the Photo etch method BUY THE PRE-SENSITISED BOARDS.
I had a load of plain copperclad board bought as part of a bargain pack and
decided to spray it myself. I bought the special spray, cleaned the boards
carefully, sprayed them in near darkness (not an easy or pleasant task) and
then scrapped the lot. The surface of the boards was covered in "fish
eyes"
with a totally uneven covering of resist and after working out the
difference between pre-sensitised board vs plain board + spray + time
p***ing about, the pre-sensitised board won hands down.
I did invest in a bubble etch tank last year along with aquarium pump and
the results are amazing. The quickest etch times ever with all areas of the
board evenly etched.
You do need to cover anything in a 1 metre radius with old newspaper though
because the little bubbles pop and spash ferric chloride everywhere.
Remember, EYESHIELDS, GLOVES, VENTILATION.
Be careful
Keith
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ian [mailto:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 17 November 2000 09:36
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Phono Faceplate - Photos
>
>
> Keith
>
> I am making a PCB for the IR circuit at the moment and am
> just about ready
> to etch this weekend. If all goes well I should have two
> pairs by Sunday. I
> was wondering - your circuit is much more complicated than
> the IR one, how
> do you get it onto the copper. I have used the iorn on
> thingys that are
> printed with a laser and then touched it up with a pen. This
> has not been
> altogether successful. How do you prototype?
>
> Thanks for the forthcoming words of wisdom.
>
> Ian
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:18:36 +0000
From: "John Benfield" <john.benfield@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Imerge Soundserver
>Lovely stuff but something tells me their price list goes up to 20
grand
for
>some of this kit!
Will least it doesn't *start* at 20 grand.
Regards
John Benfield
--
This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you
are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error)
please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any
unauthorised copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this
e-mail is strictly forbidden.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:31:18 -0000
From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is
> anyone else
> out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew
> effort and not a
> commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about
> 1.2 inches by 3/4
> of an inch.
Very interested, even more so 'if the price is right' (K Doxey, UKHA circa
2000)! I have my brother-in-law checking out the IR LED with an IR camera
-
I think that's where my problem lies. Also it's built on old breadboard
which may have dirty tracks etc.
As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if possible) you make
provision for a diode to offer some protection?
> I would like some feedback on the connectors people would
> like (assuming
> anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and I was
> planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4
> pin output - two
> lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
M*****s Part No.NE04 or something similar....?
> I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get something
> workable.
Be interested to see. As I progress, I'll try and get some pictures on my
site - but for now I think I'll wait for your PCB. My implementation will
be a little different, so it should provide some useful additional
information rather than a duplication.
James H
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:38:05 -0000
From: "Ewen Cameron" <ewenjc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coax install
Same happened to me. They wanted to run miles of coax over skirting
board to behind my TV and told me that the coax I had under the floor
would be no good (they claimed it had to be solid - which may be true
for outside to stop water flowing down it). In the end I got them to
just run the cable to my patch panel cupboard (on an outside wall)
and once they had gone I moved the box to my lounge connect to my
coax. They had fitted something to drop the signal by 3DB which I
needed to remove to get a good signal.
LabGear do an amplified splitter which needs no power at the splitter
end (about 70 quid). It can also send IR back on the coax. I have a
none amplified version running to our bedroom (25 quid). It works ok
but does not transmit all of the Pace NTL remote buttons. LabGear
have just been aquired and their site is being re-built. The Pace
NTL box has a plug for a remote IR receiver but no documentation on
it.
Let us know how you get on.
-Ewen
--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Rob West <rwest@i...> wrote:
> Michael,
>
> Sounds similar to what I've got in my house. I just let the NTL
guys put
> their stuff in my front room and then sorted it all out (i.e. moved
it)
> once they'd gone. I've now got the cable decoder in the loft -
works a
> treat from anywhere in the house with the aid of my remote control
> extender.
>
> In your case, with no power in the loft, I would leave the cable
decoder
> in the front room (also a good time to feed the signal through a
VCR).
> You can then send the decoded signal up to the loft and sit up there
> with a TV (and a long extension lead) to find out which of the eight
> cables is the live one.
>
> To solve the "no power in the loft" problem you can buy a TV
> distribution system in which the amplifier is separate from the
splitter
> (can't remember the brand name, but mine was about 25 quid from
CPC).
> This will allow you to boost the signal before you send it up to the
> loft in the first place.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Rob.
>
> --
> Rob West +44 (0)1536 201202
Ext.230
> Senior Software Engineer rwest@i...
> Intelligent Network Services Ltd. rob.west@s...
>
>
> Michael Mc Aree wrote:
> >
> > My father is moving into a new (& newly built) house next
week
which has
> > coax running from the (very small) attic to at least 8 rooms.
Each room has
> > a TV point in the corner. NTL have cabled to the front of the
house and it
> > looks as if they have went throught the wall and into one TV wall
socket.
> > This point will definately NOT have a TV plugged into it.
> > I have been put in charge of getting NTL to all rooms in the
house without
> > NTL engineers making a mess.
> > Can I use the coax in the front room that NTL look to be using as
a route to
> > the attic?
> > >From the attic I have a bundle of 8 coax cables, none
labeled,
which must
> > run to all other areas of the house. Is there a splitter of some
sort that I
> > can use to distribute the feed ?
> > How do I know which is the cable coming from the front room??
> > BTW it will be difficult to get permenant power into the attic...
> >
> > Any help/ideas greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Michael
> > BELFAST
> >
> > ###############################################
> > This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have
received
> > it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or
disclose
> > the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The
contents of
> > this message may contain personal views which are not the views
of the
> > company, unless specifically stated.
> > #################################################
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:56:58 -0000
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if possible) you make
>provision for a diode to offer some protection?
No problem - just send the circuit mods and I will incorporate them. I
can't
claim to understand exactly how it works yet but I'm game.
>Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
>https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
Screw terminals would work fine but they would make the board bigger - what
do you think?
Cost should not be a issue - also depends whether you want them drilled or
not. This was the worst bit on the prototype prototype (OK, I broke it!
(the
board track not the drill)). As I said this is not a commercial exercise.
Just a learning experience for me and some fun.
Lastly, how would you like them housed and is size an issue? Looks like
custom requirements aren't going to be a problem!
Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hoye [mailto:jhoye@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 23 November 2000 14:31
To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
> Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is
> anyone else
> out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew
> effort and not a
> commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about
> 1.2 inches by 3/4
> of an inch.
Very interested, even more so 'if the price is right' (K Doxey, UKHA circa
2000)! I have my brother-in-law checking out the IR LED with an IR camera
-
I think that's where my problem lies. Also it's built on old breadboard
which may have dirty tracks etc.
As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if possible) you make
provision for a diode to offer some protection?
> I would like some feedback on the connectors people would
> like (assuming
> anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and I was
> planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4
> pin output - two
> lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
M*****s Part No.NE04 or something similar....?
> I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get something
> workable.
Be interested to see. As I progress, I'll try and get some pictures on my
site - but for now I think I'll wait for your PCB. My implementation will
be a little different, so it should provide some useful additional
information rather than a duplication.
James H
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 14:57:00 -0000
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
When I know the current planned version works I will send you a schematic
and sizing. Let me know any changes you want and I will try to accomodate.
As mentioned elsewhere this is all about learning for me.
As for building one. I used the original parts list from a way back inc. a
CY88. I only really tested that it worked as designed. It was tricky noting
angles etc. with my three year old helping to hold the breadboard. Amazing
it is still in one piece really.
Am I correct in thinking you want to run multiple LED's (both sorts) from
one transmitter circuit. I don't know the answer but power is limited and
you may need some form of boost to do this. Ask Keith, Nigel or pretty much
anyone but me to see how to do this.
Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 23 November 2000 14:14
To: 'I.Bird'
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
Ian
My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few days) is
to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the TSOP
would also be there.
12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for visible
LED
(confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply to
'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one TSOP
and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive, transmit
or
both.
The output, then, from the receiver consists of 8 lines some of which could
be commoned. 12V supply is also necessary.
Assuming your PCB fits my scheme and they're not too expensive, then I'd
buy
one.
As a matter of interest, have you built one yet? What IR LED did you use?
And how wide was the usable dispersion area? You may have seen from an
earlier post that the LED I have on prototype board is too narrow.
Regards
-----Original Message-----
From: I.Bird [mailto:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 23 November 2000 14:05
To: ukha.d
Cc: I.Bird
Subject: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
Assuming I do get these boards (PCB) I am building to work is anyone else
out there interested in some. This is strictly a home brew effort and not a
commercial exercise as per Kat5. The current size is about 1.2 inches by
3/4
of an inch.
I would like some feedback on the connectors people would like (assuming
anyone is interested). Small is the order of the day I think and I was
planing to have a three pin input (power and signal) and 4 pin output - two
lots of LED's (one IR). Thoughts anyone.
I plan to send Nigel finished plans and photos when I get something
workable.
Thanks
Ian
[This message contained attachments]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:16:30 -0000
From: James Hoye <jhoye@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
> >As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if
> possible) you make
> >provision for a diode to offer some protection?
>
> No problem - just send the circuit mods and I will
> incorporate them. I can't
> claim to understand exactly how it works yet but I'm game.
I can't generate any diagrams - I loaded Eagle stuff on my machine and a
couple of days later NT decided it was going to corrupt my registry. Until
I reinstall everything, I'm stuck with a crappy laptop with no space to
install useful stuff. Maybe Nigel/Keith can generate an image.
> >Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
> >https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
> Screw terminals would work fine but they would make the board
> bigger - what
> do you think?
Something that doesn't require special crimping tools would be best.
> Cost should not be a issue - also depends whether you want
> them drilled or
> not. This was the worst bit on the prototype prototype (OK, I
> broke it! (the
> board track not the drill)). As I said this is not a
> commercial exercise.
> Just a learning experience for me and some fun.
If drilling, then the pitch should match the connectors. I don't know (I
assume there are) if there are standard pitches for connectors. Obviously
everyone doesn't necessarily have access to a M*****s. You could always
sell the board and connectors as a kit for a small amount to cover costs
(are you near a M*********?).
> Lastly, how would you like them housed and is size an issue?
> Looks like
> custom requirements aren't going to be a problem!
I'm intending to house the receiver in a 25mm single gang metal box, and
the
transmitter could either go in this box too or a 1 or 2 gang 25-47mm
plastic
box in the loft. As long as it fits in one of these I'm going to be happy!
James H
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:15:05 -0000
From: Keith Doxey <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
Nick,
There is potentially a serious flaw with your idea if I read it correctly.
Driving multiple LED's is easily accomplished using extra transistors to
buffer the signal. The "problem" with your idea is that of having
the IR
LED's in close proximity to the TSOP.
When first switched on everything would be fine.
When the first IR signal is received ALL the LED's would transmit and be
picked up by the adjacent sensors which would tell the transmitter to drive
the LED's.
At best you would probably have an unstable and unreliable system, at worst
it could permanently transmit IR which would ultimately lead to the demise
of your IR LED's and also jam any IR transmissions you were trying to send.
Two Way IR is basically a no-no(Duplex). Bi-directional IR is OK (Half
duplex)
You need to ensure that recievers are disabled when IR is being transmitted
from the same location.
I would try a mockup BEFORE a full blown installation just incase it isnt
going to work.
Depending on how the IR modules were constructed you may be OK if the
transmitted IR doesnt get picked up by the receiver but I felt I ought to
make you aware of a potential pitfall.
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few days) is
to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the TSOP
would also be there.
12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for visible
LED
(confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply to
'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one TSOP
and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive, transmit
or
both.
[This message contained attachments]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:29:37 -0000
From: "Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
>I can't generate any diagrams - I loaded Eagle stuff on my machine and
a
>couple of days later NT decided it was going to corrupt my registry.
Until
>I reinstall everything, I'm stuck with a crappy laptop with no space to
>install useful stuff. Maybe Nigel/Keith can generate an image.
How about it guys. If it's simple even a description works for me.
>Something that doesn't require special crimping tools would be best.
Good point!
>(are you near a M*********?).
Yes but it is a problem to get to time wise. Can be done though. Mail order
is my usual approach and not a problem.
As for mountings, I will send out piccys and measurments and people can get
back to me. Lets get it working first!
Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hoye [mailto:jhoye@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 23 November 2000 15:17
To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
> >As it's pretty easy to fry a 555, can I suggest (if
> possible) you make
> >provision for a diode to offer some protection?
>
> No problem - just send the circuit mods and I will
> incorporate them. I can't
> claim to understand exactly how it works yet but I'm game.
I can't generate any diagrams - I loaded Eagle stuff on my machine and a
couple of days later NT decided it was going to corrupt my registry. Until
I reinstall everything, I'm stuck with a crappy laptop with no space to
install useful stuff. Maybe Nigel/Keith can generate an image.
> >Screw terminals (like alarm panels) would be OK I'd have thought.
> >https://catalogue.maplin.co.uk/Pictures/20/3/97NE01B.JPG
> Screw terminals would work fine but they would make the board
> bigger - what
> do you think?
Something that doesn't require special crimping tools would be best.
> Cost should not be a issue - also depends whether you want
> them drilled or
> not. This was the worst bit on the prototype prototype (OK, I
> broke it! (the
> board track not the drill)). As I said this is not a
> commercial exercise.
> Just a learning experience for me and some fun.
If drilling, then the pitch should match the connectors. I don't know (I
assume there are) if there are standard pitches for connectors. Obviously
everyone doesn't necessarily have access to a M*****s. You could always
sell the board and connectors as a kit for a small amount to cover costs
(are you near a M*********?).
> Lastly, how would you like them housed and is size an issue?
> Looks like
> custom requirements aren't going to be a problem!
I'm intending to house the receiver in a 25mm single gang metal box, and
the
transmitter could either go in this box too or a 1 or 2 gang 25-47mm
plastic
box in the loft. As long as it fits in one of these I'm going to be happy!
James H
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 15:51:25 -0000
From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
Doh...
Thanks Keith.
I hadn't thought of that one, despite getting a feedback loop when
they were on the workbench! I plan to test it all, in location,
before doing any soldering anyway, but maybe it's time for a rethink.
Hmm, could I use a transistor in the 'client' module to 'disconnect'
the IR LED when the TSOP's output pin goes low?
Regards
-----Original Message-----
From: keith.doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 23 November 2000 15:15
To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
Nick,
There is potentially a serious flaw with your idea if I read it
correctly.
Driving multiple LED's is easily accomplished using extra transistors
to
buffer the signal. The "problem" with your idea is that of having
the
IR
LED's in close proximity to the TSOP.
When first switched on everything would be fine.
When the first IR signal is received ALL the LED's would transmit and
be
picked up by the adjacent sensors which would tell the transmitter to
drive
the LED's.
At best you would probably have an unstable and unreliable system, at
worst
it could permanently transmit IR which would ultimately lead to the
demise
of your IR LED's and also jam any IR transmissions you were trying to
send.
Two Way IR is basically a no-no(Duplex). Bi-directional IR is OK
(Half
duplex)
You need to ensure that recievers are disabled when IR is being
transmitted
from the same location.
I would try a mockup BEFORE a full blown installation just incase it
isnt
going to work.
Depending on how the IR modules were constructed you may be OK if the
transmitted IR doesnt get picked up by the receiver but I felt I
ought to
make you aware of a potential pitfall.
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few
days) is
to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the
TSOP
would also be there.
12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for
visible
LED
(confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply
to
'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one
TSOP
and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive,
transmit
or
both.
-------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
-------------------------~-~>
eGroups eLerts
It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
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_->
[This message contained attachments]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 16:29:30 -0000
From: BROUGHTON NICK <nick.broughton@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: RE: IR Transmitter boards.
No probably not, because the whole data bus has gone low, so
disabling one of the LED's, would disable them all. Which would
defeat the purpose somewhat. I'm going to stop thinking out loud
now.
-----Original Message-----
From: Broughton, Nick
Sent: 23 November 2000 15:51
To: ukha.d
Cc: Broughton, Nick
Subject: RE: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
Doh...
Thanks Keith.
I hadn't thought of that one, despite getting a feedback loop when
they were on the workbench! I plan to test it all, in location,
before doing any soldering anyway, but maybe it's time for a rethink.
Hmm, could I use a transistor in the 'client' module to 'disconnect'
the IR LED when the TSOP's output pin goes low?
Regards
-----Original Message-----
From: keith.doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 23 November 2000 15:15
To: 'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter boards.
Nick,
There is potentially a serious flaw with your idea if I read it
correctly.
Driving multiple LED's is easily accomplished using extra transistors
to
buffer the signal. The "problem" with your idea is that of having
the
IR
LED's in close proximity to the TSOP.
When first switched on everything would be fine.
When the first IR signal is received ALL the LED's would transmit and
be
picked up by the adjacent sensors which would tell the transmitter to
drive
the LED's.
At best you would probably have an unstable and unreliable system, at
worst
it could permanently transmit IR which would ultimately lead to the
demise
of your IR LED's and also jam any IR transmissions you were trying to
send.
Two Way IR is basically a no-no(Duplex). Bi-directional IR is OK
(Half
duplex)
You need to ensure that recievers are disabled when IR is being
transmitted
from the same location.
I would try a mockup BEFORE a full blown installation just incase it
isnt
going to work.
Depending on how the IR modules were constructed you may be OK if the
transmitted IR doesnt get picked up by the receiver but I felt I
ought to
make you aware of a potential pitfall.
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: BROUGHTON NICK [mailto:nick.broughton@xxxxxxx]
My current plan (it's been changing about once a day, the last few
days) is
to put the 'transmitter' at node 0. The resistor and zener for the
TSOP
would also be there.
12V would be supplied directly to the 'transmitter'.
Then I would use CAT5 and send one pair for IR LED, one pair for
visible
LED
(confirmation), one pair for TSOP output and one pair for 5V supply
to
'client' modules. These modules would simply contain 2 LED's and one
TSOP
and (probably) an RJ45 socket, making them suitable for receive,
transmit
or
both.
-------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
-------------------------~-~>
eGroups eLerts
It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
http://click.egroups.com/1/9698/3/_/2065/_/974992646/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
_->
-------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
-------------------------~-~>
eLerts
It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
http://click.egroups.com/1/9699/3/_/2065/_/974995315/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
_->
[This message contained attachments]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 07:59:03 +1300
From: rj@xxxxxxx
Subject: IR Transmitter
Went out yesterday and found two places that sell these 3 pin IR receiver
chips,. one place sells a surface mount version which is suppose to be very
sensitive and our local DSE "electronic kit shop" and they were
selling
them
on the shelf, so I'm set to try building the thing now.
regards.
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Doxey [mailto:keith.doxey@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, 22 November 2000 10:36
To: ukha_d
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter
No.
thats not the sma thing at all.
The TSOP is a complete decoder - 3 legs - +5v 0v output
what you point at is just the IR sensor part and requires a decoder chip.
I can supply the TSOP if you wish although I will have to look at the costs
of sending to New Zealand.
Keith
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rj@xxxxxxx [mailto:rj@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 22 November 2000 01:48
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] IR Transmitter
>
>
> Ive started collecting parts for this project, Have tried a
> couple of places
> and having probs with the tsop and sharp parts would this be suitable?
> http://marketplace.xtra.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/164908734
> 8/Product/View
> /Z1956
>
>
> many thanks!
>
> -------------------------- eGroups Sponsor
> -------------------------~-~>
> eLerts
> It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!
> http://click.egroups.com/1/9699/3/_/2065/_/974857677/
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> -------_->
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 20:30:50 -0000
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Advice
Hi,
Got my comfort system mounted and making use of its answerphone features.
The first thing i would like to do is automate all the hall/landing/stair
lights using X10 retro fitted to standard looped round lighting. I like the
idea of fluroescent lighting due to longevity/low consumption and would
like to stay away from low voltage halogen - sick of changing bulbs. High
ceilings so low maintenance is a must.
Any suggestions for X10 devices and light hardware ?
Steve.
[This message contained attachments]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:29:52 -0000
From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
Subject: PCB Etching Instructions
Hi All,
As asked for by others, here are the instructions that came with my UV
Lightbox that I use for making PCB's
---------------------------------
INSTRUCTIONS FOR PROCESSING P.C.B's
I. Electrical connections to the U. V. Exposure Unit Ref. XRIOL
Fit a suitable 3 pin fused plug to the 2 core cable extending from the rear
of the U. V. Unit. The brown lead should be connected to the live (L)
terminal and the blue to the neutral (N) terminal according to the
international colour code. I.e. with the plug cover removed, the (L)
terminal screw is on the right and the (N) is on the left.
No earth is required; therefore the third terminal is not used. Before
replacing the plug cover, fit a 2amp fuse in the fuse holder across the (L)
terminal and ensure that the cable clamp securely holds the cable.
2. Preparation
Prepare artwork by applying transfers (see Maplin catalogue Page 97) to a
sheet of transparent film Maplin Ref. BW 20W.
The 1/10" grid sheet supplied with the film sheets may be used as an
underlay and as a guide when positioning pads and tracks. In most cases,
P.C.B's are designed on a 1/10" pitch system as most components are
manufactured with 1/10" pitch mounting pins.
As this is a "positive" working resist system, the artwork may be
used as a
direct 1:1 photo master without the need to produce photo negatives. That
is to say that when processed, copper will remain in the areas covered by
the black transfers and that the background copper will be etched away
after
"exposure" to Ultra Violet light and "development" in
sodium hydroxide.
3
Developer Solution
Make up a solution of developer by adding 6 grams (1 level teaspoon) of
Sodium hydroxide * to 1/2 litre (a-little under 1 pint) of tap water in a
plastic tray. Always add the crystals to the water and not the water to
the
crystals.
Cold tap water may be used, but it is preferable to raise to room
temperature
I.e. approximately 20C.
The quantity will be sufficient to develop 0.2 square metres. Do not mix
more than you require for each session, as the mixture cannot be stored for
re-use.
Note * Sodium hydroxide (commonly called caustic soda) is available from
most High Street chemists including Boots. The specification required is
98
to 100% pearl.
See notes below regarding handling of chemicals.
4. Etchant
Make up a solution of etchant according to the instructions supplied with
dry etching materials.
5. Washing
In addition to the trays of developer and etchant, it is desirable to have
2
trays of water for washing after each process unless a running water supply
is available.
6. Exposure to Ultra Violet light
Remove a presensitised copper board (Ref. BW20V) from its light protective
black plastic bag and observe the copper surface. Unclip the lid of UV
Exposure unit, place the artwork on the glass plate (transfer side down)
and
then place the copper board (copper side down) on top of the artwork sheet,
ensuring that it is correctly aligned and approximately in the centre of
the
available exposure area of the machine. Carefully close the lid so as not
to
disturb the work piece and fasten clips, thus applying pressure to the work
piece and ensuring that good contact is made between the artwork and the
copper board.
Switch on the lamps by operating the switch on the front of the box and
check that the neon indicator is illuminated. Also check the time and
allow
8 minutes for Ultra Violet light to give suitable exposure. Longer
exposures of a few minutes are not likely to be detrimental.
WARNING Due to the low power and long wave Ultra Violet emission from this
unit, the radiation is not harmful. However it is advisable not to look at
the lamps directly as this may cause some discomfort to the eyes.
NOTE The pre-sensitised panels may be handled in normal room lighting for
short periods but must not be exposed to direct sunlight or other forms of
strong Ultra Violet light.
7. Developing
Immerse the exposed board face side (exposed side) upwards in the developer
solution for I to 2 minutes until the background is fully dissolved away
leaving the circuit pattern. Due to the dark blue/green colour of the photo
resist it is a simple matter to see when full development is complete.
Agitation by gently rocking the tray will help to develop the board
uniformly and speed up the process. Continuous agitation is unnecessary.
When development is complete immerse the board in the tray of fresh water
to
remove the developer solution. Keep the water clean by changing after
developing 2 or 3 boards.
8. Etching
Place the developed board in the tray of etching solution until the
background copper is removed. Once again this process will be accelerated
by agitation but may take up to 20 minutes or longer.
When etching is complete, immerse the board in a tray of clean water to
remove the etching solution. Once again keep the water clean by changing
frequently. After drying, the photo resist may be removed by adding 12
grams of sodium hydroxide to the developer solution, thus increasing its
strength, and immersing the etched board. Naturally this would be done
after developing and processing a batch of boards and before discarding the
used developer solution.
Alternatively stripping of the resist can be done with normal strength
developer by exposing the etched pattern to ultra violet and developing 'in
the normal way.
WARNING - Handling of chemicals.
The developer and etching solutions may be harmful if not handled with
care.
Always use rubber gloves when handling chemicals and solutions. Also keep
away from the eyes and face generally. If chemicals accidentally contact
the skin, wash immediately with fresh running water.
-----------------------------------
DISCLAIMER.
As I have said before..... the chemicals involved are hazardous and it is
up
to YOU to ensure proper safety precautions are taken.
Keith
[This message contained attachments]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:29:55 -0000
From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
Hi Ian,
Etching Instructions posted separately.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ian [mailto:I.Bird@xxxxxxx]
>
> How did your etching and circuit building go as below
2 of my boards etched OK. I cocked up the exposure times for 2 of them so
they went in the bin. Drilling the boards went reasonably well apart from
snapping one of my Tungsten Carbide drill bit :-(
Fitting components and testing tomorrow night......
YES MARK....I know thats slower than I told you but things dont always
happen like they should :-(
> I still
> haven't got the etching fluid out but I will this weekend (in the
> garage). I
> have enough for one pint so only one weekends worth.
>
You can save the etchant in a plastic container. I went to the local photo
lab and got a couple of their old developer bottles. WASH THEM THOROUGHLY.
You cant save the developer but its only a teaspoonfull of sodium hydroxide
and that is dirt cheap.
> A quick question. I have lots of clear transparencies from my college
days
> and plan to print on these using a laser. You are talking about opaque
> film - are you referring to ink jet tranparencies which are
> coated? I assume
> this is not ideal if thats what you mean. If not, why opaque drafting
film
> and where do you get it? Will ordinary transparencies do?
>
Clear transparencies are OK but the image always looks more solid on opaque
film. You can get it from any office supply place. Opaque is better because
it diffuses the UV so that you get even distribution all over the board.
> Do you print the component outlines and numbers like R1, C1 etc. on
the
> 'top' side or work from a printout. How can these be printed?
The Pro boards have a green solder mask printed on them on both sides and
then a silk screen overlay on the top to show component placement. That
isnt
easy to do at home !!!
Someone mentioned that a Laser print can be ironed and the toner will stick
to the board. Print the image reversed and give it a try!
You will have to align it properly. Thats probably easiest after drilling
so
you can put a couple of pins through to aid alignment.
If it works then great....if not...nothing lost.
If it fails then just work from a printout. Print it at 200% so you can
read
the legend ;-)
Hope that helps
Keith
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:34:55 +0000
From: James Derrick <james@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PCB Etching (Was : Phono Faceplate - Photos)
On Fri, 17 Nov 2000 13:58:06 -0000, you wrote:
>I use photo etching.
Same here, except for hacked together _definitely_ one off boards.
>My biggest problem at the moment is lack of a Laser Printer although
this
Hmm. I tried laser printers, photocopiers, etc a few years ago.
Photocopiers were the worst as when the tracks were densely black
enough, there tended to be shadows elsewhere. Laser printers were not
bad, however it was easy to damage (scrape) the toner off the master
especially if you put the board on the toner side of the master.
I found a HP DeskJep 660c with HP transparencies gave the darkest
master with the best contract. HP film looks rough on the ink side
(like it's been sanded) and takes ink very well. The black is _very_
black.
>My inkjet printer gives less than perfect results. The image is clear
but
>the black is nowhere near dense enough. This means I have to be
EXTREMELY
>careful with the exposure times or I remove all the photoresist :-(
Hmm. Could it be the film is not the best type for your printer? The
HP stuff I use is more expensive than alternatives, but works.
I did try polyester draughting film as this takes ink well, but is
opaque.
>If you do opt for the Photo etch method BUY THE PRE-SENSITISED BOARDS.
This is something I did wrong for years. Again, quality costs!
Maplin pre-sensisised board was very hard to work with, but the
aerosol spray was damn-near impossible to use. The thickness of
coating is just too hard to get even.
I switched to Farnell board, and lo and behold, the same masters and
chemicals gave perfect results. This board was a lot more forgiving
with UV exposure, with a wider range of exposures giving good results.
Fine tracks became possible to etch- previously these were
over-exposed out. One tip is to make a test master with a mixture of
track widths, and try it with a range of exposure times. This makes
judging underexposure (copper left), or overexposure (thin lines
disappear) much easier and scientific.
One other pitfall- I made my UV light box from scratch, getting UV
tubes from a general supplier. It appears the light from some tubes is
not 'hard' enough (power? frequency?) for PCB exposure and my boards
were disappointing. In desperation I splashed out on expensive PCB
light box tubes, and again the results improved.
>I did invest in a bubble etch tank last year along with aquarium pump
and
>the results are amazing. The quickest etch times ever with all areas of
the
>board evenly etched.
Never tried aeration, however I warm the ferric sulphide in a sink of
hot water then float the board on the top using surface tension. This
reduces the chance of one portion etching faster than another as
removed copper salts fall with gravity.
>You do need to cover anything in a 1 metre radius with old newspaper
though
>because the little bubbles pop and spash ferric chloride everywhere.
Just 1m? ;)
When no one is looking, work in the bottom of the bath. That way,
splashes can be washed off the tiles and bath sides. The plug hole
does suffer though!
>Remember, EYESHIELDS, GLOVES, VENTILATION.
Also get a cotton lab coat to protect your body- mine has lots of
chemical burn holes and is rusty brown with the iron salts!
TTFN,
James
---
James Derrick james@xxxxxxx, Cramlington, Near Newcastle,
England
Forwarding Service: jderrick@xxxxxxx
Beyond the Horizon of the place we lived when we were
young,
In a World of Magnets and Miracles. Pink Floyd.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 11:41:31 +1300
From: rj@xxxxxxx
Subject: FW: website
this is the more expensive of my two options ($10nzd),. only issue I can
see
with this unit is that its surface mount.
[This message contained attachments]
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 22:53:08 -0000
From: "Keith Doxey" <keith.doxey@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: FW: website
That looks as if it will do the job.
Down side - will be fiddley to work with :-(
Plus side - very compact receiver :-)
Price isnt too bad if the currency converter I just used is correct.
10 NZD = 2.86 UKP
I am selling at 1.50 UKP which I reckon is about 5.25 NZD
Depends how many you need and how quickly you want them but my offer to
supply them still stands with postage at cost.
Keith
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rj@xxxxxxx [mailto:rj@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 November 2000 22:42
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] FW: website
>
>
> this is the more expensive of my two options ($10nzd),. only
> issue I can see
> with this unit is that its surface mount.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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