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Re: Dimming
- To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
- Subject: Re: Dimming
- From: nicholas@xxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 17:31:42 -0000
- Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
- Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
- Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact
ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
- Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Nigel - can you suggest a Maplin part number? I think that =A320 per=20
lamp is a little too much - a triac plus a few other components cost=20
under a pound...
> You need to determine the zero crossing points, but you re-
synchronise to=20
> each one of them, so the timing after that point isn't very=20
critical.
How could the PIC determine the zero crossing points?
Thanks Nick
--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Nigel Orr <nigel@r...> wrote:
> At 20:43 06/11/00 +0000, you wrote:
> >I find X10 clumsy and unreliable. I have been able to utilize
a=20
triac, and
> >a variable resistor plus some other stuff to dim a light, but=20
using a
> >variable resistor defeats the point... what I need to be able
to=20
do is dim
> >the light using something like a PIC.
>=20
> There are various options, digital or analogue control, or complete=20
homebrew...
>=20
> Digital, probably most expensive, usually easily expandable, easy=20
interface=20
> to PC, off the shelf.
>=20
> Analogue, 0-10V or similar fed to a controller which handles all=20
the triac=20
> stuff. Maplin have a module for about =A320 that looks like just
the=20
ticket.
>=20
> Homebrew, you can run a PIC via a dropper resistor from the mains,=20
and take=20
> a dropped, rectified, unsmoothed (phew!) mains signal as an input=20
to=20
> determine the zero-crossing points, then use an output to drive a=20
> triac. If you want the PIC to have a wired interface to some other=20
> controller, it would need to be opto-isolated, or else you would=20
need to=20
> use an isolated power supply and something like an HCPL-3700 for=20
sensing,=20
> instead of a dropper resistor etc.
>=20
> That last paragraph may mean nothing to you, it could be called=20
overly=20
> concise... which of those 3 would you like to do?
>=20
> > I don't know how to do this, as at
> >requires precise timing with the mains frequency, as far as I
know.
>=20
> You need to determine the zero crossing points, but you re-
synchronise to=20
> each one of them, so the timing after that point isn't very=20
critical.
>=20
> Nigel
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