Re: Do these exist: "Instant on" or very rapid start CFL???

["Robert Green" <robert_green1963@xxxxxxxxx>]

"Art Todesco" <actodesco@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:isqg56$el5$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> On 6/8/2011 10:34 PM, Robert Green wrote:

<stuff snipped>

> > I'm hoping these will eliminate the terrible problem of CFL's turning
> > themselves back on because of how they work with the slight current
trickle
> > used in X-10 circuits to sense local control of the switch.  I've got my
> > fingers crossed.  It could be the miracle bulb for both of us!
> >
> > --
> > Bobby G.
> >
> >
> I modified lamp modules in 2 different ways to make them silent
> appliance modules.  They both work with CFLs with no problems.  One
> of the mods uses a solid state relay and doesn't retain the X10
> local on feature, which is ok with me.  This mod will switch up to 5
> amps.  Here's a link http://mysite.verizon.net/res1fl57/id11.html
> The other mod is a little more complicated as you have to add a deal
> roach (upside down IC), etc.  It does retain the local on, but in my

"Deal roach?"  Sounds like a three-position switch based on the Monty "Hall"
effect."  (-"

 I assume from the context that should be "dead roach" because the pins of
the IC are face up like a dead bug.  Guys like you and Dan Lanciani are
better technicians than I'll ever be.  I've seen some of the added IC
modifications and while they are neat, and while I certainly can think of
some mods that need doing, it's not in my skill set.  Palmpads, in
particular, should be prevented from sending more than 10 seconds worth of
commands so that when a button gets stuck, it doesn't jam the RF until you
find the miscreant transmitter.

> case, I disconnected that  lead because I know the small current
> which it squirts into the lamp would probably cause CFLs or even LED
> Christmas lights some problems.  Here's a link
> http://idobartana.com/hakb/silent_local.htm   I think just removing
> the 330K resistor removes the local sense current.  But both work
> very well.

I've done a number of the mods, some work, some don't.  Most are based on
the older X-10 module designs.  I've sadly found that one of the "hacks"
kills local control but NOT current leakage.  X-10 definitely should create
a CFL-friendly module with either a slide switch or a programmable way to
defeat "local on/current sense."  I'm pretty reluctant to modify these
modules (or anything else that's line powered) because if a fire starts for
any reason, I've left myself exposed to an investigator citing my mods as
the problem (however slim).

In any event, some of the appliance modules I have (RCA, Magnavox, Stanley
and other gotten at deep discounts when they abandoned the lines) don't have
circuits that match the ones shown in the mods.  I'll have to search again
to see if the newer circuit boards have been researched and modified, too.
I hate disabling local sense - so much so I'll put a small resistive load on
the same circuit to absorb the trickle current.  Some of the newer, larger
wattage CFL's seem to be able to relight themselves even with other
electrical devices plugged into the same controller module.  It's a problem
the X-10 has to fix on their end with a module more compatible with CFLs.
The new Federal efficiency law may force their hand, at least if they don't
want to answer the same question every day on their support lines.

Plus, it's a pain in the butt to do anymore than open and snip the diode
(the fix that doesn't work!) or cap a EagleEye CDS cell with a piece of heat
shrink tubing (does work to control the +1 beast.  In looking over the X-10
site for a CFL friendly module I see that finally, X-10 has made the +1 code
activation a programmable selection and not one that had to be cured with
heat shrink tubing.  Maybe they've got something in the works because I'd
bet half the tech calls they receive are related to fluorescent lighting,
one way or another.  Thanks for your input, Art.

--
Bobby G.