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Re: Recomendations wanted for outdoor video camera (make/model) and retailer



I have the color version of this one http://www.smarthome.com/7538.html and
the problem I had with it is that the heat from it fogs the lens, not the
camera lens but the case lens cover. It is not suppose to do that. The
outside temp was only about 58 degrees. I solved it by removing the cover
and permanently fixed it by using some of that no fog spray you get at the
auto parts store.

--


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"Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:cPmdnVVLIobqjHHfRVn-rw@xxxxxxxxxx
> "Andy Evans" <andy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:dcg0r6$vf2$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> With that temprature range, you will be looking at a heated external
>> houseing, so you will be able to use just about any camera  and lens that
>> you want.  Try looking at the dennard 506 houseing at
>> http://www.dedicatedmicros.com
>>
>> Andy
>
> That's not necessarily true.  Bulletcams, because of their dense
> electronics, put out a *lot* of heat in their hermetically sealed
> enclosure.
> The essentially *are* in a heated case (most consist of a machined
> aluminum
> tube with a protective glass plate at one end and a gasketed, screw-down
> cap
> at the other).  This one:
>
> http://www.smarthome.com/7538.html
>
> is rated from -22F and 140F.   While I've never gone much below 0F with
> mine, they've shown no sign of trouble, even at that temperature.  There
> are
> no moving parts to bind up:  The focus is usually fixed and the electronic
> shutters do away with the need for delicate iris diaphragms whose
> lubricants
> can stiffen in extreme cold.  While I don't really believe it, this bullet
> camera:
>
> http://www.hometheaterstore.com/store/product.php?productid=1107&cat=0&page=
> 1
>
> alleges specs of -100 to +500 C RH 95% Max (which runs between the
> unlikely
> melting points of chlorine gas (-100.98 °C) and zinc (419.58 °C) so take
> it
> with a grain of NaCl melting point (804 °C)).  I think the bottom line is
> to
> look at the specs and buy from a reputable dealer who'll back them should
> the spec turn out to be overly optimistic.
>
> Here's another one from a reliable manufacturer (I have some 10 year old
> B&W
> ProVideo bullet cams that are still working just fine) that will fill the
> OP's original specs:
>
> http://azcctv.com/Color-exterior-high-resolution-low-light-cameras.46.0.-hr-
> ll-.0.htm
>
> ProVideo CVC-637EX Color Bullet Camera
> Operating Temperature  -20 degrees to 122 degrees F
>
> If the OP has a *really* cold freezer he can pre-test them before mounting
> them under the eaves.  I would recommend that highly no matter what option
> he chooses.  It's a lot easier to debug such problems from the freezer
> than
> from the eaves in a -20F blizzard.  Wait until the wife's away, though.
> Freezer experiments (aka "cold soaking") are notoriously unpopular with
> the
> ladies, I've found, but they're awfully important to perform before
> deployment to hard-to-reach locations.
>
> Unless the OP's house is regularly at -20F or he wants to use PTZ (Pan,
> Tilt, Zoom) cameras that must be able to move even in extreme cold, then
> heated enclosures (and yet another glass surface to cause reflections and
> light loss) might be overkill.  They'll certainly be a lot more obtrusive
> than bulletcams alone.
>
> Though I couldn't find the housing at the URL you cited, I did find it
> here:
>
> http://www.buythis.co.uk/open_product.asp?catid=67&pid=756&offset=&search=&s
> price=&orderby=
>
> The difference between a bare bulletcam and a heated housing is roughly
> the
> equivalent of hanging a lipstick case from the eaves versus hanging a
> small
> mailbox or birdhouse.  Things that big hanging from the roof usually have
> a
> low spousal approval factor.  :-)  Also, I am not sure what £70 is worth
> in
> Canadian bucks today, but I suspect for the price of a heated case alone
> you
> could buy a very nice bulletcam.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>
>
>




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