Re: Need help to buy correct X10 equipment.

[andrew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Andrew Gabriel)]

In article <1113413345.490090.179070@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
	stevierg@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Ok, I've just moved into my first home. Yippee.
>
> Now I want to make the living room have remote control lights. In my
> rented apartment i used two LM12 Plug-in Lamp Modules.
> (http://www.letsautomate.com/10015.cfm)
>
> Now I am wanting to have flush lighting in the room. (Mainly because I
> am going to mount a projector in a few months.) The lights I am
> planning on using are going to have GU10 Halogen bubls
> (http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/produ...ID=6670240&paintCatId=).
> GU10 Halogen bulbs are mains powered and I am pretty sure you can dim
> them without anything extra.

I guess that broken URL is the 5x50W set?

> So if I had two sets of those lights and I used the LD11 module
> (http://www.letsautomate.com/10002.cfm?) would this be fine?

I suspect so. I have an LD11 running 3x60W and it works fine.
You are talking of 500W load of halogen lamps which is going
to be more marginal. I don't recall if the instructions required
any derating for halogen lamps, but due to the way the LD11
always comes on slowly even if you send it an 'on' command with
no dimming commands, it likely doesn't need any derating.

I have it housed in second consumer unit, and have it protected
by a dedicated 3A Type B MCB, which might provide some extra
protection for the Triac in the event of a flashover in a failed
lamp (most recent MCB's will act faster than the fuse).

Personally, I'd never try lighting a room using downlighter
spotlamps due to the inappropriate use and appalling efficiency
of the setup, but that's a different matter.

--
Andrew Gabriel