Re: lawn sprinkler control unit repair

[pak <eckerpw@xxxxxxxxx>]

OK,  becasue all connections in valve box looked very old and worn, I
undid all them.
1) tested each of the five solenoids, all but one read between 22-24
ohms, so I assume they are good. The fifth read infinity, so I assume
that one is bad, correct?
2) At the vavle box cheched each of five colored wires to the common,
each read 0-2 ohms, not sure what that means? Help
3) Then measured each colored wire terminal at control box to the
common terminal, each read 0-1ohm. See aboverequest at item 2.

I am learning a great deal in this project and really appreciate your
ongoing help.

Paul



On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 23:03:59 GMT, "BruceR" <brNOSPAM@xxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:

>Yes, just unscrew the black soenoid from the valve body if it indeed
>needs to be replaced.  If you disconnect the solenoid wires from the
>wires going back to the panel, you then put your meter across the two
>solenoid wires and see if theres a short.  Next, put the solenoid wires
>aside and put the meter across the common and the other wire going back
>to the panel and see if there's a short.
>
>From:pak
>eckerpw@xxxxxxxxx
>
>> Bruce- hate to keep asking questions, but ....just want to be sure I
>> understand
>> 1)  unscrew the solenoid from the valve body?
>> 2) re: your last sentence, how do I check solenoid and wires after
>> they are disconnected?
>>
>> On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 22:18:28 GMT, "BruceR" <brNOSPAM@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> No, check for shorts with the power OFF!  Changing the solenoid is
>>> simple. Clip the wires and just unscrew it (turn the water off). The
>>> new one (available at your local home center) just screws in and you
>>> hook up the wires (it's 24 VAC so there's no polarity to worry
>>> about).  If the same brand as your valve is not available, that's OK
>>> as they're interchangeable. Rainbird, Toro, Orbit, Lawn Genie, etc.
>>> all use the same thing. Bring the old one with you just to be sure.
>>> Remember, if you find a short from the panel it might be the wiring
>>> rather than the solenoid. If you find a short, disconnect the wires
>>> to the solenoid and check the soleniod and the wires to see where
>>> the problem is.
>>>
>>> From:pak
>>> eckerpw@xxxxxxxxx
>>>
>>>> Understand, one more question or two, if I find that there is a
>>>> short in the solenoid, is it  best to replace the  valve or can I
>>>> repair? Does the control unit need to be powered up to check for
>>>> shorts?
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 20:47:23 GMT, "BruceR" <brNOSPAM@xxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The gelcaps are plastic tubes filled with a waterproof gel. You
>>>>> stick the wirenutted connection into the gel and close the top.
>>>>> That keeps water out of the connector. There may already be
>>>>> corrosion in the wirenuts so replacing them (cutiing back the
>>>>> wires beyond the corrosion) will give you a clean, tight
>>>>> connection.
>>>>> To check for shorts from the control box, put one test lead on the
>>>>> common terminal and then touch the other lead to each screw
>>>>> terminal. If you read 0 ohms there's a short in a solenoid.
>>>>>
>>>>> From:pak
>>>>> eckerpw@xxxxxxxxx
>>>>>
>>>>>> OK, got the valve box all cleaned out. There are 5 valves, each
>>>>>> with a colored wire and a black wire which I guess is the common.
>>>>>> All the connections in the valve box that were under dirt are just
>>>>>> connected with wire nuts, but all wires seem intact and still
>>>>>> connected. The fuse in the control box is blown.
>>>>>> The advice here  was to check all connections and then waterproof
>>>>>> with gel caps. Can some one explain how gel caps work or what I do
>>>>>> with them? are wire nuts sufficent for this application?
>>>>>> Also George suggested " measure that solenoid at the control box
>>>>>> to verify that the resistance is comparable to the other
>>>>>> solenoids, I think in the range of 20-50 ohms. (Put ohmeter
>>>>>> between
>>>>>> common and valve when watering is not active.)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Could you explain that a little further? I assume all the control
>>>>>> valves are soleniod operated. Not sure how to measure soleniod at
>>>>>> control box. Am I looking to see if one of the valves has shorted
>>>>>> out? Need a little more qdvice on the trouble shooting path.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>> Paul
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 18:53:51 -0700, "AZ Woody"
>>>>>> <Reply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I saw one (don't recall the brand) that would also go completely
>>>>>>> brain dead if the backup battery went bad.  But it sounds like
>>>>>>> you should clean out around the values as a first step...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "pak" <eckerpw@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:d0ll61hgdvlb5qoagpu3cft9r6jefkca31@xxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>>> it's a Hydro Rain HR 6000-1, not sure how old
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 22:55:01 GMT, "Jack Ak" <akjack@xxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> What is broken?  A device model number might be needed along
>>>>>>>>> with failure symptoms.  My local OSH store carries parts
>>>>>>>>> for the Lawn Genie controller.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> "pak" <pak.ecker@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:24gl61d0gcnnrpalfsb0m3jo7pf0alhmdh@xxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>>>>> Wondering if this is the right group to ask questions about
>>>>>>>>>> automatic sprinkler system control unit repair?
>