Re: Outdoor camera connections.

[Jim <alarminex@xxxxxxx>]

On Sunday, May 5, 2013 10:49:20 PM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote:
> "Jim" <alarminex> wrote in message news:906fbb3b-ce68-479f-a007-ead875227=
c12... On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 9:27:39 AM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote: > also, =
with the connectors of a factory pre-wired > "Pigtail" you will have > no w=
ay to trouble shoot or adjust the view of the > camera from outside AT > th=
e camera, now it just became a TWO MAN JOB. Great point!!! I use a wrist > =
monitor to adjust the camera so I don't have to go back up the ladder. > Ye=
p, gotta put a junction box on the outside with the camera. Hi, Actually, n=
o, it's still a one-man job. If you can adjust the camera on the outside by=
 yourself using a junction box, then I can adjust the camera all by myself =
without the box...same way, just slightly different. I never need a second =
man to adjust, wouldn't think of it. Well ..... don't keep it a secret ....=
........... How would you do it? I'm thinking that .... with the video conn=
ection in the wall that you could possibly set the camera up before you per=
manently mount it .... then stuff the connections in the wall and caulk the=
 hole ...... but that wouldn't make it very easy if you had to go back and =
tweek the setting a little bit, later on. Hi, Sorry I am taking so long to =
get back to you. I don't know if you did the job by now, but anyway, this i=
s how I install them if I do not want an ugly box on the front of a buildin=
g. Since you say that your wall/brick facing is so uneven, and I did not wa=
nt to deface this building front, nor install a box on top of that, I would=
 be using either screw/bolt studs or just long screws-stainless steel of co=
urse. You drill your holes in the softer mortar joints, as mentioned much e=
arlier in the posts, and you insert your plastic or lead plugs into the thr=
ee holes. You will need also the washers as mentioned before. You will have=
 to estimate about how many washers for each screw that you will need to ma=
ke that camera parallel with the wall. A little trial or error, but that do=
es not take long at all. The camera will have uneven space between it and t=
he brick which could possibly vary from 1/8" to maybe 3/8" or more. It is n=
ow fastened to the wall with screws and washers that keep it away from the =
wall to offset the unevenness of it. That space at the biggest point is whe=
re you will also have left your video wire unconnected and dangling outside=
 of your camera for you to now adjust it with your wrist monitor or small p=
ortable HD TV set. That is what I use because it gives a much better pictur=
e and it is easier to view also. We now use only cams which come with butto=
n-control to adjust all kinds of settings on the camera such as WDR, BLC, e=
tc., so I do need to be able to adjust it out there. We also use only varif=
ocal for almost everything, this way, no matter what the view that is requi=
red for a job, it is very easily achievable for any project. So now it is p=
erfectly adjusted and it is parallel with the wall and no ugly box either. =
The video/power connectors are in an almost bomb proof environment "loosely=
" in the hole in the wall. They pull right out if you need to get to them a=
gain because you bought or made extension wires long enough to do that. All=
 you have to do now is remove 2 screws out of 3 while keeping track of how =
many washers for each screw that you took off. You loosen the 3rd screw tha=
t is still holding the camera. Now you can tilt or rotate the cam to hook u=
p your video connection and place it into the larger hole in the wall. A li=
ttle electrical tape to prevent any grounding possibilities on the connecto=
rs would be a good idea. Insert your 2 other screws with their respective a=
mount of washers and screw them back into your plugs. Camera is now paralle=
l, perfectly adjusted by ONE man, and very well secured. I will only have d=
rilled 4 holes including the video/power wire hole, all in the mortar joint=
s-none in the bricks. If need be that at a later time that the customer wan=
ted to remove that camera, it can be easily removed, and with very little m=
ortar patch, I could make those holes disappear. So you say, ok, but what a=
bout the gaps? That is why, as I mentioned in the previous posts, that I us=
e that flexible type gasket material that is similar to the gaskets that co=
me with those grey pvc outdoor boxes. I will have cut out previously a gask=
et for it, with the screw/washers holes and video/power hole already cut ou=
t. I am sure that you can figure out when that gets put in. A 'small' amoun=
t of carefully applied 50-year silicone on the outside will finish the prod=
uct beautifully. You can get it with colour matching if need be. By the way=
, to drill all 4 holes in mortar only, you have to view it as a symmetrical=
 "Y" . So if you are looking at it, the center hole for video/power and the=
 bottom fastening screw are in the same vertical mortar joint. The left and=
 right fastening screws are in the horizontal mortar joint directly above a=
nd adjoining the vertical joint. If you just play with it, you will see how=
 simple it is. It can also be installed backward or upside down. I believe =
you had a 3" flange as mentioned earlier so that should be easily done. Hop=
ing this helps you in some way. This is not theory, just how I do it 'alone=
' and it looks great and all the while the connections are always readily a=
ccessible. By the way, I do not remember the last time when I've had to go =
and re-adjust a camera again. Take care.

Hi,

Well ..... thanks alot for that. Sounds like a great way to do it. I think =
I'll be getting to the first outdoor camera in a couple of weeks. I'm going=
 to do the camera that's way in the back of the building first, in case I r=
un into some "trial and error" problems. I'll look into where to obtain tha=
t gasket material you described. I don't remember ever seeing anything like=
 that sold seperately but I'll ask at the local electrical supply. If not, =
I'm a great fan of duct seal which would eliminate the need for caulking an=
d is removeable, even after many years.=20

Again, thanks for taking the time for the detailed description.