Re: Outdoor camera connections.

["E DAWSON" <edawson@xxxxxxxx>]

"Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:906fbb3b-ce68-479f-a007-ead875227c12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Tuesday, April 2, 2013 9:27:39 AM UTC-4, E DAWSON wrote:
> also, with the connectors of a factory pre-wired > "Pigtail" you will have
> no way to trouble shoot or adjust the view of the > camera from outside AT
> the camera, now it just became a TWO MAN JOB. Great point!!! I use a wrist
> monitor to adjust the camera so I don't have to go back up the ladder.
> Yep, gotta put a junction box on the outside with the camera.


Hi, Actually, no, it's still a one-man job. If you can adjust the camera on
the outside by yourself using a junction box, then I can adjust the camera
all by myself without the box...same way, just slightly different. I never
need a second man to adjust, wouldn't think of it.


Well ..... don't keep it a secret ...............  How would you do it?

I'm thinking that .... with the video connection in the wall that you could
possibly set the camera up before you permanently mount it .... then stuff
the connections in the wall and caulk the hole ...... but that wouldn't make
it very easy if you had to go back and tweek the setting a little bit, later
on.

Hi,

Sorry I am taking so long to get back to you. I don't know if you did the
job by now, but anyway, this is how I install them if I do not want an ugly
box on the front of a building.

Since you say that your wall/brick facing is so uneven, and I did not want
to deface this building front, nor install a box on top of that, I would be
using either screw/bolt studs or just long screws-stainless steel of course.
You drill your holes in the softer mortar joints, as mentioned much earlier
in the posts, and you insert your plastic or lead plugs into the three
holes. You will need also the washers as mentioned before. You will have to
estimate about how many washers for each screw that you will need to make
that camera parallel with the wall. A little trial or error, but that does
not take long at all. The camera will have uneven space between it and the
brick which could possibly vary from 1/8" to maybe 3/8" or more. It is now
fastened to the wall with screws and washers that keep it away from the wall
to offset the unevenness of it. That space at the biggest point is where you
will also have left your video wire unconnected and dangling outside of your
camera for you to now adjust it with your wrist monitor or small portable HD
TV set. That is what I use because it gives a much better picture and it is
easier to view also. We now use only cams which come with button-control to
adjust all kinds of settings on the camera such as WDR, BLC, etc., so I do
need to be able to adjust it out there. We also use only varifocal for
almost everything, this way, no matter what the view that is required for a
job, it is very easily achievable for any project.

So now it is perfectly adjusted and it is parallel with the wall and no ugly
box either. The video/power connectors are in an almost bomb proof
environment "loosely" in the hole in the wall. They pull right out if you
need to get to them again because you bought or made extension wires long
enough to do that.

All you have to do now is remove 2 screws out of 3 while keeping track of
how many washers for each screw that you took off. You loosen the 3rd screw
that is still holding the camera. Now you can tilt or rotate the cam to hook
up your video connection and place it into the larger hole in the wall. A
little electrical tape to prevent any grounding possibilities on the
connectors would be a good idea.

Insert your 2 other screws with their respective amount of washers and screw
them back into your plugs. Camera is now parallel, perfectly adjusted by ONE
man, and very well secured. I will only have drilled 4 holes including the
video/power wire hole, all in the mortar joints-none in the bricks. If need
be that at a later time that the customer wanted to remove that camera, it
can be easily removed, and with very little mortar patch, I could make those
holes disappear.

So you say, ok, but what about the gaps? That is why, as I mentioned in the
previous posts, that I use that flexible type gasket material that is
similar to the gaskets that come with those grey pvc outdoor boxes. I will
have cut out previously a gasket for it, with the screw/washers holes and
video/power hole already  cut out. I am sure that you can figure out when
that gets put in. A 'small' amount of carefully applied 50-year silicone on
the outside will finish the product beautifully. You can get it with colour
matching if need be.

By the way, to drill all 4 holes in mortar only, you have to view it as a
symmetrical  "Y" . So if you are looking at it, the center hole for
video/power and the bottom fastening screw are in the same vertical mortar
joint. The left and right fastening screws are in the horizontal mortar
joint directly above and adjoining the vertical joint. If you just play with
it, you will see how simple it is. It can also be installed backward or
upside down. I believe you had a 3" flange as mentioned earlier so that
should be easily done.

Hoping this helps you in some way. This is not theory, just how I do it
'alone' and it looks great and all the while the connections are always
readily accessible. By the way, I do not remember the last time when I've
had to go and re-adjust a camera again. Take care.