Re: Outdoor CCTV problem

[Jim <alarminex@xxxxxxx>]

On Nov 16, 3:37=A0pm, Robert Macy <robert.a.m...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Without spending too much time in decipering spec's for you here's
what I see:



> Would you post a list of 'considerations' to take into account?
>
> Especially be useful if you were to add the 'minimum' requirements, or
> why the spec is important to a 'self installer'.
> List examples
> 1. Line resolution, where 360 to 400 sucks, but 540 to 600+ will
> fulfill expectations?

The higher the resolution, the better the picture. However, it doesn't
make sense to buy just cameras with 600 lines of resolution but have a
DVR and monitor that can only produce 400 lines. ( and really this
defines the answer to most of the rest of your questions)

> 2. Wireless: how to discern the channel spec to make certain ALL the
> channels will work TOGETHER! Are their effective add on modules?

I think it was you that I mentioned it to before ..... wireless
"anything" is part magic. There's no predicting how well it will work
in any given installation. There are to many outside factors that can
cause a problem. That is the reason that most professionals will not
use it. You can't know if it's going to work until you try to set it
up.

> 3. LUX requirement: you said 0 LUX, which implied [to me] no light is
> required, the cameras have their own. =A0I've seen 30ft and40 ft range
> cameras.

The spec's regarding Lux capability are muddled for the most
part ....  I suspect most times on purpose by the manufacturers.
Especially where infrared lighting comes into the picture. There are
cameras that can see a news paper headline at 30 feet on a starlit
night without infrared. Probably in the area of .000001 lux. Very
expensive cameras. That's why infra red lighting is predominent. It's
less expensive. When using cameras with infrared lighting, the spec's
will tell you what the viewing range is at night with the infrared
LED's on. However, take whatever they say and devide it in half and
sometimes more. I've seen some cameras rated at 50/60 feet do a
terrible job seeing anything identifiable at 20 feet.

> 4. size of CCD

Normally the larger the CCD the better but most cameras nowdays come
with 1/3 inch. The larger the CCD the more expensive the camera. 1/3
inch is the median size between 1/2 and 1/4 inch.

> 5. Lensing/angle of view.

There are nomographs available on line at various websites ( google
it) that will help you determine what size lens will give you what
angle of view a what distance. Measure your requirements and see if
the lens on the cameras will give you what you are looking for.

>
> I've been wading through specs for a while and keep tripping over
> features I do NOT care about...internet images, 3G phone images etc.

Just ignore them if they are of no interest. They will not effect the
spec's important to you.

>
> I need a way to view around our property 24/7 while occupying the
> property. and don't say go out and look, because there are too many
> blind spots.I need a way to have motion detector(s) go into alarm, and
> switch the view of the TV system away from entertainment to the camera
> catching the motion. and then be able to switch back. =A0The idea of
> digital recording in the manner of the TV entertainment system does
> now would be ideal. =A0I've gone through 10 VHS tape machines, and
> mechanical reliability sucks.

There are not too many VHS tape machines around anymore. Stick with
hard drive DVR's

I don't know what your particular goal is so I don't know why you
would need additional motion detectors. The DVR shown on the website
has built in motion detection with alarm notification/output. You can
use this to activate ...... "something" that will cause  your TV to
switch to the proper input or to PIP. There are a number of ways this
can be done. But you'll have to figure that part out for your self.
However, this could be quite annoying if a raccoon keeps interrupting
your favorite TV program. Or, what if you don't have your TV on and
there's motion. I'd suggest a seperate monitor(s) with a soft beep
when motion is dectected or IPhone notification.
>
> Is this a good 'starting' system that removes much of the decision
> processes?:

I just read over the spec's briefly and I didn't see any reference to
the resolution of the cameras. It doesn't mention  if there is built
in  Back Light control ( which may or maynot be important to you
depending upon what you are looking at) With the cameras only rated at
40 foot vision at night that says probably it's only 20 feet. There's
no indication of the frames per second and the ability to adjust them
for the DVR. No indication if the DVR will give you a pre alarm
recording to see the events that led up to the motion alarm. The focal
length of the lens is not mentioned for the camers at all so you don't
have any way to determine what field of veiw you're going to have. Are
there any adjustments at the camera? If there are, do you have to
disassemble the housing to get at them. If you are going to want to
view this from off site, it doesn't really say how that is
accomplished. Some of these devices require a fixed IP address in
order to view from off site. It would be nice to be able to see an
installation manual for the DVR to see what it's going to take to set
it up. Particularly if you're using remote viewing. By the way, with
regard to seeing what's going on from within your home, you should be
able to address the DVR on your local network from any computer on the
network. However, as far as remote viewing or viewing via IPhone etc,
if you've never port forwaded a network router, you may need the
assistance of someone who can help you do that. Keep in mind that as
much as you may not think you want remote viewing, you may actually
find it convenient to get an E-mail on your IPhone, even while your at
home .... but not near a monitor, ....  to say nothing of knowing
what's going on at home while you're on vacation or even just out
locally shopping, etc.  You're buy the DVR and it has this
capability .... why not take advantage of it?

I've only broached the tip of the iceburg here. As you can see and as
I mentioned earlier, it takes more time to type stuff like this out
for you, than it's worth. It takes lots of seminars, reading,
experimentation and on the job expererience to get this stuff right.
That's what professioals bring to you that lot's of people don't
recognize. In other words ..... you don't know what you don't know. So
you don't even know what questions to ask. It'd be worth it to educate
you if you were going to have me install your system..... but .....
you're not.

Maybe someone else will be good enough to pick it up from here.

Good luck.







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