Re: Who has a security system and dialup?

[Milhouse Van Houten <none@xxxxxxxxx>]

mm wrote:

>On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:49:22 -0500, Terry <Kilowatt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>wrote:
>
>>When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.
>>
>>Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.
>>
>>She was having trouble with one of her phones.  I looked in her phone
>>box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
>>extensions on their other pair.
>>
>>Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone.  I am not sure
>>when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
>>or so.
>>
>>Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
>>slows dial up?
>
>Within the next month, I'll have what you say.
>
>I sort of doubt this is the problem****, but when I've had speed
>problems, I've routed the line straight from the nid to the computer,
>and from there to everywher else.  That didn't really help either, but
>I knew I had done what I could.
>
>If you want to check, bypass the connection with the burglar alarm.
>
>The best way to do this if you have a NID, a network interface device,
>outside your house, is probably to get some phone wire with modular
>plugs on each end, and run the wire from her modem to the NID.   (You
>have to unplug the house to do this)  You can go through the hall and
>out the window. See what kind of speeds you get.

Agreed.. So far..


> If you want to do
>this for an extended period, take the second jack of the modem and use
>another wire to plug that in to the place the modem is plugged into
>now.  Then the rest of the phones in your house will work, except
>probably not the burglar alarm connection.  But her alarm is probably
>not armed when people are home, anyhow.

Nope, that will effectively send the phone voltage back to the
customer side of the NID, which is now completely isolated because the
small jumper cord from the Telco side to the Customer side in the NID
is.

I think you meant to say run the 2nd jumper from the "phone out" of
the modem to the NID "in", the jack that was unplugged (the small
jumper inside the NID).  Which will effectively make the modem the
seizure device.



>
>If you want to keep the alarm in the circuit, for extended testing,
>you'll need to reverse two pairs of two wires each. So that when the
>alarm siezes the line, it will sieze the wires in the house (that go
>to the computer and then to the NID) instead of the wires that go
>directly to the NID, which are no longer conected to anything.

Nope.. don't do that of all the other house phones are gone.


>
>The major reason the alarm siezes the line is so the burglar can't
>interfere with the dialing (the touch-toning) by picking up the first
>phone he sees and pushing extra buttons.  But I don't think many
>burglars bother to do that (anyone know?), and you're not likely to
>get burlarized during this modem speed testing period anyhow. Plus I
>have a siren.

That's true.



>So the alarm will still work in every other way even if it doesn't
>sieze the line, if you reverse the in and out  You could do this at
>the alarm control panel, or at the 2x2 telephone outlet the alarm is
>plugged into that I explain below.
>
>I know I'm not always clear, so if any of this is confusing, please
>ask.
>

Iv 'e been an alarm tech for 16 years and your explanation *is*
confusing - not because I don't understand in-house wiring better than
the phone man, but because I had to decipher your instructions. <G>

>The second way to bypass the alarm, only bypasses that and not the
>rest of hthe house, but doesn't require there to be a NID outside.
>
>2) My alarm, which I am installing myself, has four phone connections,
>two in and two out, and is intended to use standard four-conductor
>indoor phone wire, with a modular plug on the other end.  The modular
>plug is intended to plug into a standard phone jack (at least that is
>what I'll be using) but one that is wired differently from an
>extension phone.  This one instead has two wires (in the same sheath)
>from the line from the phone company, and two wires that go to the
>rest of your house.


It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x.  It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)


>
>So all you have to do is, not at the burlar alarm panel but at that
>2x2 inch box, either use 2 wires with alligator clips on each end, and
>clip them from red to red and from green to green.

Inside the RJ-31x the colors are <green/red> to street, <gray/brown>
to house phones.

This is NOT a standard jack by any means..  If you look inside one
there are 4 more connections - they are for tampers.




>(You could do this at the burglar alarm panel too.  although there
>might not be any stripped wire showing.)
>
>Or you can take one of each color off, and put it on the very same
>screw as the one of the same color.
>
>(The colors won't be like this at the control panel)
>\


True.. He would put blue to orange and blue/wht to orange/wht

>This box should have two phone wires coming in, and the red and greeen
>of one wire connected to the red and green screws of the box (by which
>I mean, the screws are all the same color but they have different
>color little internal wires connected to them.  They may also have an
>R and G embossed in the plastic.)  And the red and green of the other
>wire is connected to the black and yellow screws of the box.  That way
>all four wires go to your burglar alarm which will just pass them
>through to each other normally, but will intercept the phone line when
>there is an alarm and it wants to call the central station.  IF this
>box doesn't have two reds and two greens, post back with more details.

<sigh>


<snip>
>
>
>Also post to alt.security.alarms .


Please do....

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