Re: Why?

["Crash Gordon" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It's was just a rant. I've been doing this over 22 years. The LSD drill
wouldn't have worked and I wouldn't have taken the chance of killing my
wires on these expensive doors. (Above the wooden header there were old
steel lintels...ah trust me it was a PITA)




"Julian" <julian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:uf13i2ldhug3vnkl6c9e5hdmn5g8d08064@xxxxxxxxxx
| On Thu, 21 Sep 2006 18:16:14 -0700, "Crash Gordon"
| <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
|
| ><rant>
| >Why the fuck would you urethane foam insulate all my door contact wires
into
| >the header?
| >
| >Oh, it's good insulation.
| >
| >I fucking know that, your fucking moron. But, now you left me 3 inches of
my
| >wire stubbed out through a 3/8" hole (nice) but I can't push them up, or
| >pull them down.
| >
| >Took me 4 hours to install 9 stupid contacts.
| >
| >dickwadidiots
| >
| ></rant>
| >
|
|
| Wow! A whole bunch of 'alarm professionals' here and nobody points you
| to the proper tool?
|
| You could have saved yourself a whole bunch of time with the LSD
| Rebore-Zit drill bit:
|
|
http://www.lsdinc.com/cgi-local/search.cgi?user_id=1054519&0_option=2&0=62-338&database=data/Dbase1.txt&template=templateblowup2.html
|
| You may need an extension, but the bit works enough on its own.
|
| If this is a common problem - it is in my area - there is an easier
| solution. When leaving slack, take about 1 foot of the end of the
| wire, fold it back 180 degrees and twist the two wires together as you
| feed it back up the hole. Remember to leave some slack - at least one
| foot - above the header, so you can pull your wire down.
|
| The wire will still be insulated in place, but when the wire is pulled
| down, it leaves a large enough hole to push the wire back up once you
| have the contact installed.
|
| Or use the Rebore-Zit.
|
|
| Julian