Re: Alarm Purchase Help

["R.H.Campbell" <rh.campbell@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Sir, you have asked a lot of questions and I certainly can't answer them all
in the contents of a post; however, there are a few givens that you should
be cautious of:

1- There is no such thing as a "free system". Figure out your costs over
five years when doing your comparison pricing between companies (get three
quotes). The basic system is written off over the term of the contract;
however, as you can see, add ons are usually expensive to try to make more
up front.
2- Alarms currently do not work RELIABLY over VoIP. Be extremely cautious of
anyone telling you otherwise !
3- Make sure you put it in the contract that they will default the installer
code back to factory at the end of the contract, or at the end of the time
when you are with them, whichever comes last. Also, ensure they write in
that they will unlock your panel once the system is paid for (at the end of
the first term). And, if you're dealing with a small company, make that
NEVER lock it ! With a big company, there's a better chance they will still
be around when it's time to unlock it !
4- The use of proprietary equipment seems to be falling out of favour.
However, it does still exist, and you can only take the word of the company
in this regard. Also, find out the make and model of panel they plan to
install and post it here. Someone can usually tell you..
5- Generally speaking, a hardwired system is better and more troublefree
over the longer term than wireless. Although today's wireless is very good,
it is usually best to go wired if possible.

There's a lot more to consider; however, the above may assist in a general
way.

R.H.Campbell
Home Security Metal Products
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
www.homemetal.com


"David L" <David-Lu@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:Xns96F75A95865A4davidlupobox@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> I'm a newbie looking for an alarm system.  I really know little about
> alarm systems and am coming here in the hopes that I can learn enough to
> ensure that I get the right system.
>
> I live on Long Island and am looking for a professionally installed
> system.
>
> So far, I've contacted both General Security
> (http://www.gensecurity.com)(I've been a happy oil customer of General
> Utilities for a long time now) and Slomins (http://www.slomins.com).
> Both are very large/well known installers/monitors here on Long Island.
>
> I need to double check some things with General, but Slomins offered a
> free fully hardwired system that includes a panel, keypad, siren, 1
> motion detector, 1 smoke alarm, 3 door alarms and professional
> installation.  Window breaks were $125/window and I probably need around
> 10.  A 2nd smoke alarm is another $150.  5 year CS contact at $25.95/mo.
> The will connect the system to a VoIP service for free (if I wanted to
> go that route).
>
> Now, some questions.
>
> 1) Wired or Wireless?  Forgetting about price, is fully wired a superior
> solution?
>
> 2) I have no problem letting them make their money back on the install
> over the life of the original contract, but I see there are many places
> to get CS much cheaper (i.e. nextalarm.com).  What questions do I need
> to ask upfront to ensure that once my initial contract is up that I can
> take my alarm system, without additional costs, to another CS?  Should I
> have the contract noted that they'll provide me with codes (installer
> code? user code? what codes do I ask for?) upon completion of the
> contract?  How do I know that the equipment they'll provide is not
> propriatary and will work with another CS without some sort of major
> upgrade?
>
> 3) Where do I really need glass breaks?  Cost is certainly a factor, so
> I don't want glass breaks where I don't really need them.  The house is
> just off the street and I have nearby neighbors on all sides.  The front
> of the house has a clear view to the street (and to the neighbors across
> the street). I have all new Anderson casement windows.  I figure the
> windows in the back that are 8 feet or less off the ground are definite.
> What about windows near the ground right in the front of the house?  Is
> it necessary to glass break those?  Would it be almost a total waste to
> get glass breaks on windows that are 15 feet off the ground in the front
> of the house?  Are glass breaks the right item for Anderson casements?
>
> 3a) I'm a little confused as how the Slomin's rep counted the windows.
> For example, I have 2 windows right next to each other.  IIRC, when the
> window people put it in, it's one big piece with 2 windows that open out
> from each other.  The Slomins rep counted that as one window as far as
> glass breaks would be concerned.  But there are 2 window panes, so I
> don't understand how both panes are protected.  I asked a few times and
> she assured me it counted as one.  But, then in another room, I have a
> four panel casement (one piece) and it counted as 2.  Can anyone explain
> that?
>
> 4) Any other suggestions on additional items and position placement
> (i.e. 2nd motion detector)?  The house is a hi-ranch with an entrance
> with stairs leading up to the bedrooms, kitchen and living room and
> stairs leading down to the den.
>
> 5) My main phone is on a VoIP service now through the cable company.  I
> do have a 2nd line POTS (that I'm not sure if I'm keeping long term).
> If the installer says they can get it to work on VoIP, is there any
> reason not to?  I also figure that if someone does try to cut a cable
> out back, they might only figure to cut the phone line and not realize I
> might be using the cable line for phone service.  Also, Verizon is
> wiring this area fast and there's a chance I might wind up with phone
> service over their fiber eventually, I might not have a POTS line then.
>
> 6)Protectamerica.com looks really cheap.  What's the gimmick/catch with
> them?  Crappy propriatary wireless alarm system?
>
> Well, I know I've asked a lot here.  Hopefully, someone could take the
> time out to respond.  Thanks in advance to all who do.
>
> David
>