Re: Alarm Purchase Help

["Crash Gordon" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Some responses inline....

"David L" <David-Lu@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:Xns96F75A95865A4davidlupobox@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
| I'm a newbie looking for an alarm system.  I really know little about
| alarm systems and am coming here in the hopes that I can learn enough to
| ensure that I get the right system.
|
| I live on Long Island and am looking for a professionally installed
| system.
|
| So far, I've contacted both General Security
| (http://www.gensecurity.com)(I've been a happy oil customer of General
| Utilities for a long time now) and Slomins (http://www.slomins.com).
| Both are very large/well known installers/monitors here on Long Island.
|
| I need to double check some things with General, but Slomins offered a
| free fully hardwired system that includes a panel, keypad, siren, 1
| motion detector, 1 smoke alarm, 3 door alarms and professional
| installation.  Window breaks were $125/window and I probably need around
| 10.  A 2nd smoke alarm is another $150.  5 year CS contact at $25.95/mo.
| The will connect the system to a VoIP service for free (if I wanted to
| go that route).
|
| Now, some questions.
|
| 1) Wired or Wireless?  Forgetting about price, is fully wired a superior
| solution?

If the house can be wired cost effectively then go that route. These days
wireless is great, and very reliable but there is an overhead down the
road....transmitter batteries last 3-5 years there is one in each
door/window transmitter and two in PIRs and some glassbreaks. I sell the
CR123s for 6 bucks each, but if you buy them at Walgreens they're like 8
bucks each...you do the math.

Anderson windows are a PITA to post wire, btw.

A wireless goes in relatively quickly, but there are a few wires to run. A
post-wired house takes much longer.



|
| 2) I have no problem letting them make their money back on the install
| over the life of the original contract, but I see there are many places
| to get CS much cheaper (i.e. nextalarm.com).  What questions do I need
| to ask upfront to ensure that once my initial contract is up that I can
| take my alarm system, without additional costs, to another CS?  Should I
| have the contract noted that they'll provide me with codes (installer
| code? user code? what codes do I ask for?) upon completion of the
| contract?  How do I know that the equipment they'll provide is not
| propriatary and will work with another CS without some sort of major
| upgrade?
|
Kinda tricky starting off a relationship with a company asking questions
about how to move on later...but...

They won't give you the Installer code (I wouldn't either) but have them put
it in writing that IF you ever decide to leave after the initial term of the
contract is furfilled by you that they WILL remote program the Installer
code and unlock any programming lockouts so that you can move on IF  you
want. Any reputable company wouldn't object to doint his...if you don't owe
them money or something.

First Alert products like General Alarm sells is actually Ademco stuff that
can be taken-over by anyone that knows Ademco (who doesnt)..but a company
like Brinks sells only proprietary stuff that cannot be taken over. There
are others that do this as well...make sure you're not buying proprietary
stuff that can only report to they're own company.


| 3) Where do I really need glass breaks?  Cost is certainly a factor, so
| I don't want glass breaks where I don't really need them.  The house is
| just off the street and I have nearby neighbors on all sides.  The front
| of the house has a clear view to the street (and to the neighbors across
| the street). I have all new Anderson casement windows.  I figure the
| windows in the back that are 8 feet or less off the ground are definite.
| What about windows near the ground right in the front of the house?  Is
| it necessary to glass break those?  Would it be almost a total waste to
| get glass breaks on windows that are 15 feet off the ground in the front
| of the house?  Are glass breaks the right item for Anderson casements?
|

Glassbreaks are great I have them in every room of my house including the
upper level...but  you have to be part of the design...what is  your comfort
level/cost/whatever?

Anderson's if latched properly are almost impossible to jimmy opened, imo.
The proper mix of contacted windows & glassbreaks is up to you, your wallet
and some help from your alarm professional...if he/she is good and can think
like a burglar you should be able to come up with effective coverage.


| 3a) I'm a little confused as how the Slomin's rep counted the windows.
| For example, I have 2 windows right next to each other.  IIRC, when the
| window people put it in, it's one big piece with 2 windows that open out
| from each other.  The Slomins rep counted that as one window as far as
| glass breaks would be concerned.  But there are 2 window panes, so I
| don't understand how both panes are protected.  I asked a few times and
| she assured me it counted as one.  But, then in another room, I have a
| four panel casement (one piece) and it counted as 2.  Can anyone explain
| that?
|
Acoustic glassbreaks can cover a large area...usually 15-30 feet depending
on pattern, room acoustics, shutters, blinds, drapery and other stuff (sound
does not travel well around corners).


| 4) Any other suggestions on additional items and position placement
| (i.e. 2nd motion detector)?  The house is a hi-ranch with an entrance
| with stairs leading up to the bedrooms, kitchen and living room and
| stairs leading down to the den.

Hard to tell without seeing a floor plan. I usually like to use a mix of
glassbreaks AND motion detectors...and of course contact all exterior
operable doors and windows.

|
| 5) My main phone is on a VoIP service now through the cable company.  I
| do have a 2nd line POTS (that I'm not sure if I'm keeping long term).
| If the installer says they can get it to work on VoIP, is there any
| reason not to?  I also figure that if someone does try to cut a cable
| out back, they might only figure to cut the phone line and not realize I
| might be using the cable line for phone service.  Also, Verizon is
| wiring this area fast and there's a chance I might wind up with phone
| service over their fiber eventually, I might not have a POTS line then.

Avoid VoIP it's not reliable...it might work for a week then stop...PITA.

You definitely want your system to send a daily test signal...not weekly,
not monthly...but every day.

Next Alarm... they're not real...read other posts about them...you probably
wanna stay away from these guys.

Fiber won't come into  your home..I have fiber up to the box down the
road...it's still a regular phone line into my house.

If you're concerned about phone line cuts consider a radio backup.


|
| 6)Protectamerica.com looks really cheap.  What's the gimmick/catch with
| them?  Crappy propriatary wireless alarm system?

My grandfather had a saying: "Cheap is dear"


|
| Well, I know I've asked a lot here.  Hopefully, someone could take the
| time out to respond.  Thanks in advance to all who do.

Ask your friends/neighbors if they are happy with their alarmco. Go with
someone you like...you are buying a relationship, service, knowledge - the
equipment used is almost secondary (almost). I have clients that have been
using us for 20 years, I've seen their kids grow up, and I've installed
alarm after alarm for them as they grew from start homes to huge houses.
It's not all about the money.


|
| David
|
|