Re: Voltage Optimisation ?

["rossryles" <yahoo.5321.cs@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I'd stay well clear.

The biggest electrical loads in a house are things that heat.  Be that
spac=
e heating, an electric shower or an oven.  They will be no more efficient
a=
t 220V than 250V.  A kettle will be slightly less efficient because it
will=
take longer to boil, giving more time for heat loss.

Incandescent lighting or fluorescent lighting on magnetic ballasts will be
=
much dimmer, prompting the use of more numerous or higher wattage lamps.
Yo=
u'd be better spending the money on good LED lighting.

No good for switched mode power supplies (PC, phone charger, TV,
electronic=
ballast lighting).  These will draw more current at the lower voltage, inc=
reasing both cable losses and internal losses.

Might work for lightly loaded motors, excluding the fridge compressor, but
=
most motors will draw more current, run hotter and be at increased risk of
=
failure.

Finally there is the energy lost in the "optimizer", which though
never men=
tioned by the sales people is not zero.


--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Marcus Warrington <marcus.warrington@...> wr=
ote:
>
> The guys who installed my solar panels (which I'm very pleased with)
also=
mentioned that they supply and fit voltage optimisation units. Specificall=
y one of the guys has already installed the Voltis VH60 unit in his own
hou=
se and recons he's seeing a reduction of around 23%. The cost supplied and
=
fitted is around =A3440+vat with a payback period of between 4 to 5 years.
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> Using the SunnyExplorer software I've used our solar inverter to check
ou=
r incoming voltage which does seems to be average around 246-248v most of
t=
he time, so plenty of potential reduction down to 220v.
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> Has anyone else on the list had experience or opinions on these types
of =
unit ?
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> Marcus
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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