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Re: Righ-angled chuck adaptor


  • Subject: Re: Righ-angled chuck adaptor
  • From: "Paul" <paul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:55:59 -0000

Many thanks the Irwin drill bits look interesting and will add them to
the wish list. I'm currently pulling some UFH pipe which has insulation
taking it to 32mm. So although I can pull it through a 32mm hole I've
discovered that the task is easier if the hole is 38mm. Spade bits and the
Irwin seem to top out at 32mm, so I bought a Bosch holesaw kit (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/Holesaws/Bosch+Progressor+Holesaw+Kit+8+Pc/d80/sd1530/p28171)
seems pretty good so far and my Bosch Li-Ion drill / driver has just enough
power to go through fairly easily. It has a smaller body than the
electrical drill.

I know what you mean about cables I been pretty careful moving them up and
down, well out of the way of where I would be drilling. The joists already
have a few holes for other services so I've made the new holes as far away
from the old as possible, but I may reinforce the joists to be cautious.

Paul

--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "leewild80" <muddyboots@...> wrote:
>
> Paul
>
> I bought myself a Makita right-angled drill when I was wiring &
plumbing my self-build, to drill all my joists. Not cheap but much, much
better than trying to use an ordinary drill/driver as it requires much less
space.
>
> If you're drilling smaller holes for cable or pipework, buy yourself
some Irwin Blue Groove 6x bits (eg: http://www.toolbank.com/p/C10481/IRW10506620
).
> They are far better than ordinary flat bits, incredibly fast drilling,
but they pull themselves into the wood SO aggressively that the Makita
couldn't handle anything over say, a 25mm size (if I remember correctly).
>
> Never tried using it with a holesaw, I suspect it would be OK so long
as the saw doesn't bite & pull itself into the wood too much.
>
> Finally - when cutting through a joist - always check whether there's
cables clipped to the other side first ;)
> Remember also the rules about where you can/can't drill into joists.
>
> Hope this helps
> Lee
>
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, Tim Hawes <timsyahoo@> wrote:
> >
> > I've hired a Makita (mains) right-angled drill before and it
makes the
> > job so much easier. As does auger bits rather than the cheaper
> > flat-bladed variety I was using beforehand. The twist on the
auger bit
> > hels to pull the drill through whereas with the flat bits you
have to
> > scrape away at the wood.
> >
> > The power & torque from the Makita right-angled drill was
greater than
> > my regular hammer drill...
> >
> > HTH,
> >
> > Tim.
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 5:07 PM, Paul <paul@> wrote:
> > > Anyone recommend a good right-angled adaptor for a drill?
Bought one today from Toolstation and it is now in the bin. First use it
couldn't handle the torque of the drill into a hole-cutter which was making
a hole in a joist. The casing broke as the gears tried to make an exit,
then spent 5 minutes trying to get my holecutter out of the chuck.
> > >
> > > For now I am managing with a Li-Ion screwdriver / drill
which has just enough power.
> > >
> > > Paul
> >
>




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