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RE: Using an LD11 as an appliance module ?
Paul,
Funnily enough that happened to me over the weekend.. the dining room
lights came on for no reason (on an AD10 not an LD11). This is the first
time I've
Seen this happen in the year that I've had it installed.
I did have some issues with a stick on switch in the rear bedroom and a
RF receiver in the front bedroom (20-25M apart). When the stick on
switch was being used to DIM the lights it would occasionally turn on
the front bedroom lights. Checking the homevision logs it looked like
the barrage of "dim" packets generated by holding the button
down,
occasionally got a "corrupted" packet that "changed"
the unit code.
Solution was to move the receiver to the other side of the chimneybreast
and we've not had the problem since.
Marcus
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of
> Paul Gale
> Sent: 29 May 2007 12:00
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Using an LD11 as an appliance module ?
>
> Marcus,
>
> I can't answer your main question but I can say that I've had quite a
few
> occasions where I've had LD11's come on uncommanded. Not sure of the
> cause, be it corrupt packets, interference or a neighbouring X10
system. I
> do have an incoming mains filter though.
>
> This is one of the reasons I'm finally going CBus - although that
doesn't
> help you I know!
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On
Behalf
> > Of Marcus Warrington
> > Sent: 29 May 2007 11:50
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: [ukha_d] Using an LD11 as an appliance module ?
> >
> >
> >
> > Have just spent the Bank Holiday weekend plumbing and fitting our
new
> > bath.. and now want to get the LED lighting wired up to the main
light
> > switch, but don't really want to use the CLUNKY AD10 module. At
the
> > moment I have 3 LD11's controlling the six recessed ceiling
lights
in 3
> > banks of two. What I'm proposing is to now split it so that 4
lights
> > (over the main floor area) are on one LD11, then the 2 lights
over
the
> > bath are on another and then to use the "spare" LD11 to
drive the
LED
> > lighting.
> >
> >
> >
> > The LED Lights are run from a 12v transformer that I have in a
sealed
> > weatherproof box under the bath, the feed for this is going up to
the
> > distribution board in the attic roof space. From here 3 lengths
of
T&E
> > run to the consumer unit housing the LD11's (in the first floor
landing
> > cupboard). My plan is to connect this feed to the 3rd LD11 but
> > disconnect the local light switch control and have it only
switched
via
> > Homevision issuing an extended X10 command (on at 100%) when it
detects
> > the lights are turned on in the bathroom. My only concern is that
if
by
> > "accident" a dim command is sent to the LD11 either by
a remote
control
> > or a corrupted X10 packet, would this kill the 12v transformer
or
> > have
> > some dangerous effect ?
> >
> >
> >
> > I know an AD10 is the proper way to go, but they are just too
loud
to
> > be
> > usable...wish some one would make a quite DIN mounted version.
> >
> > I've even considered using a micromodule but the problem there is
that
> > if the (momentary) light switch is pressed for more than
1.75seconds
> > (i.e. local dimming control) the module treats it as a normal
latching
> > light switch and would then switch off the LED's when the
(momentary)
> > switch was released. Why is nothing ever simple :-)
> >
> >
> >
> > In fact that reminds me... has anyone ever come across a
momentary
> > switch that only briefly makes a closed contact regardless of how
long
> > you hold the switch down ? i.e. would disable local dimming
control
> > while still allowing on/off control of LD11's?
> >
> >
> >
> > Marcus
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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