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{Disarmed} RE: Steamproof downlights


  • Subject: {Disarmed} RE: Steamproof downlights
  • From: "Dean Barrett" <dean@xxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 15:32:56 +0100

Manufacturers class shower/steam proof - i.e. suitable for directly over/in
a shower enclosure as IP65 - plenty of standard type LV recessed fittings
a=
t
sub =A310.00 for those
=20


Dean.
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20

Talk for free - skype me  <skype:dean.rolec?call> Call me!

Try our amazing lighting demonstration online now, and watch in realtime
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our webcam. Click below and follow the CBus links.
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From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Pete Church
Sent: 12 October 2005 15:21
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Steamproof downlights


Thanks =96 kettle moving is of course an obvious solution =96 should have
guessed you guys would have thought of that one!



Seriously though, wherever the kettle goes it will be near to a light and
a=
s
it this light is actually about 80cm from the spout, so surely any kettle
under a kitchen wall unit with under cabinet lights would have a similar
problem.



I agree that IP 69K would be overkill =96 particularly as the fitting
I=92v=
e got
cost all of =A36 so replacing it will be a serious upgrade!



Thanks



Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Hawes,Timothy Edward (GEG)
Sent: 12 October 2005 14:13
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Steamproof downlights



It's true that most IP-ratings tables do not mention "steam
proof"
however, IP69K is often used for industrial sensors subject to high
temperature / pressure and/or steam wash-downs. See:
http://tinyurl.com/9x9xc for a bit
more info.  IP69K is somewhat of an
overkill for domestic use though.

There's some advice for saunas etc. here:
http://www.bathroomexpress.co.uk/light.htm
I've no idea if it's good
advice, however :-)

Moving the kettle, does sound the simplest solution :-)

HTH,

Tim.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: michael.furlong
>=20
> Move the kettle?
>=20
> Problem with this is likely to be that the steam causes=20
> condensation on the inside of the fitting.
>=20
> I am not sure that even an IP rated fitting is going to solve=20
> the problem as steam is not mentioned in the ratings.
>=20
> mick
>=20
>=20=20
>=20
>   _____=20=20
>=20
> From: Peter Church
>=20
> I've been having recurrent problems with one of the 12v=20
> downlights installed in a 'floating' shelf beside the cooker=20
> in our kitchen - the bulb often flickers and blows=20
> repeatedly.  The fitting is a Screwfix cabinet downlight and=20
> I've replaced the fitting and the problem resumes.  Another=20
> light on the same circuit has no problem so I can rule out=20
> the transformer (Aurora btw...)
>=20
> Other than the wiring, the only thing different between the=20
> two lights is that the dodgy one sits above the kettle - and=20
> I can imagine how that could cause corrosion on hot contacts=20
> of the capsule bulb.
>=20
> Does anyone have any experience of a similar problem, or=20
> better has anyone got a similar situation and not got the=20
> problem and can suggest a better fitting.
>=20
> I'm thinking of resorting to an IP rated fitting (not sure=20
> where steam comes in the IPxx ladder...), but as the small=20
> depth is an issue might have to resort to some expensive=20
> marine fittings.
>=20
> Any thoughts
>=20
> TIA Pete
>=20







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