Re: Re: Networking problems.

["Shmern" <shmern@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

>
> > Any other ideas? I'm stumped.
> >
>
> Go back to basics - and "divide and conquer".
>
> Buy two new sockets and a proper punch down tool. Disconnect existing
> wall socket and punch down new socket on a bad cable. Test. If it
> doesn't work, disconnect at patch panel end and punch down second
> socket. Test. If that doesn't work, then check that you have the same
> cable at each end (perhaps using a battery and bulb -   or more
> sophisticated test gear if you have it. Connect battery across a pair
> at socket end - ideally direct to the wire - and probe with bulb, but
> ensure all kit is disconnected from patch panel first).
>
> At the end of the day, it's only wire and sockets - it's no more
> complicated than wiring phone extensions. FWIW I'd put my money on
> the cables either not being punched down correctly, or being mis-
> labelled (which sounds like a complete nightmare with so many
> points). (One final outside possibility is that the cables have been
> fractured through rough handling, but it's pretty hard to do.)
>
> Patrick

Agree with what patrick suggests, and as someone else suggested make sure
the hub/switch is fine first.

If after trying both these quick scenarios then Im afraid it's
beg/steal/borrow/rent a proper cable tester and find out EXACTLY whats
going
on.

You probably don't want to hear this and im assuming the hole feeding node
0
is in the ceiling, but with 70-140 cables coming through the same hole, the
cables at the bottom of the bundles will be at the rim of the hole and will
have the weight of all the rest of the cables pulling on them not to
mention
the bend radius will be servere. Unless you have some protection for these
cables (Foam round rim of the hole?) they are likely to get damaged, I have
seem this many times in the past in work. The only thing you can do then
use
that cable to pull through another new cable to the faceplate.

The only way to be sure is to use a real tester to confirm.

Sorry

Shmern