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RE: Re: X10 DIN module wiring ?
If you are going to use electronic transformers then check with the
merchan=
t
that they are OK for use with electronic dimmers ... Electronic dimmers
(such as the LD11's) work by chopping the power on and off very quickly and
some (usually old) electronic transformers didn't like being driven in such
a way and would complain (usually only by giving out a loud buzz and
nothin=
g
else - fire and brimstone wouldn't usually rain down). Manual (Rotary)
dimmers just attenuate the voltage reaching the transformer but leave the
waveform intact.
Personally I've either been very lucky or something but I've not yet found
an electronic transformer (as long as it was actually dimmable) that won't
work with an electronic dimmer, however, from the occasional email I get
>from
"Mode" or "IBL" branded electronic transformers as we
know that they should
work.
Phil
> -----Original Message-----
> From: egelbeertje [mailto:r_d_k@xxxxxxx]=20
> Sent: 23 March 2004 13:22
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: [ukha_d] Re: X10 DIN module wiring ?
>=20
> Hi Marcus,
>=20
> Transformers and dimming, you're right, some of the el cheapo=20
> style transformers don't like dimming, make sure to check the specs.
> As a rule of thumb, if it's a standard wire & coil=20
> transformer - it should be dimmable, if it's an electronic=20
> one - it should be specified on the unit. Also make sure you=20
> have a minimum load on every ld11 circuit to avoid erratic=20
> behaviour - I think it's about 60watts.
>=20
> As far as wiring goes, all you need is a 230v live on the=20
> ad10/ld11 input to switch it on, you could hop the live feed=20
> from 1 to the next, just make sure it's according to building=20
> regs and use ample wire diameter. Same goes for the neutral.=20
> Personally I would stay clear of brass connectors for=20
> anything else but grounding.
> You could put a circuit breaker as an add on, just make sure=20
> it's rated lower than the one driving the ring - or it'll never blow.
> I do have some drawing I could mail you if wanted - don't=20
> have a digicam yet so no pics.
>=20
> rgds Rob.
>=20
> --- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Marcus Warrington"
<marcusw@m...>
> wrote:
> > We are just having our attics skimmed and new ceilings put in
etc,
> so I took the opportunity to rip out the old wiring and have=20
> run a single T&E from a small landing cupboard to each=20
> lighting point( 6 in
> total) and a single switch wire from each switch (3 in=20
> total) to the same cupboard. Actually most switch plates have=20
> 2 or 3 switch wires because each attic has more than one light.
> >=20
> > At the moment this tangle of wires are just connected together
(via
> chocolate block connectors) to form a normal circuit. I am=20
> now about to stick a consumer box in the cupboard and then=20
> rewire using LD11's and/or AD10's
> >=20
> > BTW not many places seem to sell empty consumer boxes (i.e.
without
> the circuit breaker etc), I got a nice MK 12 unit empty=20
> consumer unit from my local B&Q for only =A323.
> >=20=20
> > So now the questions...
> >=20
> > I am intending using some low voltage lights in each attic..,
twin
> wires spanning across room with lamps suspended in-between.=20
> Am I better using AD10s to control these or can the LD11's=20
> dim low voltage lamps ? The lights are from IKEA if that=20
> helps.. can't imagine they're top quality transformers as a=20
> couple of the lights (3 lamps
> units) only cost =A38 for the whole kit !
> >=20
> > How do wire the DIN modules into the consumer box. Looking at
> a "normal" consumer box it makes use of a common bus bar
to=20
> link the Neutrals of the DIN modules together. With the X10=20
> Din modules, do I simply take the incoming power cable and=20
> wire the Neutral to the top Neutral bar, the incoming Earth=20
> to the top Earth bar, and then buy another brass connector=20
> block to connect the Live feed to... or do I simply connect=20
> the Live to the first DIN module and then jumper from each.=20
> If I use another brass connector so I have to be concerned=20
> about the amount of power i.e. will it get too hot.. how do I=20
> secure it into the consumer box.. hot melt glue..epoxy glue ?
> >=20
> > When wiring the switch to the LD11 I assume I wire one wire to
the
> top of the DIN module and the other to the common Live feed ?
> >=20
> > I'm also wondering if its worth putting a single isolation
breaker
> module between the incoming power feed and all the DIN=20
> modules so I can isolate the attic without turning off the=20
> whole circuit (which includes the main downstairs hallway)
> >=20
> > Has anyone got some piccies showing how they have wired theirs ?
> >=20
> > I also currently have a strange situation were one ring in the
> house can not send X10 messages to another ring. i.e. I have=20
> an RF receiver on the downstairs ring and any codes I send=20
> via the remote do not hit an appliance module on the upstairs=20
> ring. At the moment I get around this by having 2 receiver=20
> units (one on each ring) but its not an ideal solution. I=20
> have read about X10 failing if the rings are on different=20
> phases .. does this effect the UK ?
> > I don;t think its something on the ring killing the signal
(i.e.=20
> fridge) because I can actually pass messages around devices=20
> on that ring just not from devices transmitting from another ring..
> >=20
> > Any help or advice appreciated
> >=20
> > Marcus
>=20
>=20
>=20
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