[Date Prev][Date
Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date
Index][Thread Index]
X10 DIN module wiring ?
We are just having our attics skimmed and new ceilings put in etc, so I
too=
k the opportunity to rip out the old wiring and have run a single T&E
from =
a small landing cupboard to each lighting point( 6 in total) and a single
=
switch wire from each switch (3 in total) to the same cupboard. Actually
mo=
st switch plates have 2 or 3 switch wires because each attic has more than
=
one light.
At the moment this tangle of wires are just connected together (via
chocola=
te block connectors) to form a normal circuit. I am now about to stick a
co=
nsumer box in the cupboard and then rewire using LD11's and/or AD10's
BTW not many places seem to sell empty consumer boxes (i.e. without the
cir=
cuit breaker etc), I got a nice MK 12 unit empty consumer unit from my
loca=
l B&Q for only =A323.
=20
So now the questions...
I am intending using some low voltage lights in each attic.., twin wires
sp=
anning across room with lamps suspended in-between. Am I better using
AD10s=
to control these or can the LD11's dim low voltage lamps ? The lights are =
>from
a couple of the lights (3 lamps units) only cost =A38 for the whole kit !
How do wire the DIN modules into the consumer box. Looking at a
"normal" co=
nsumer box it makes use of a common bus bar to link the Neutrals of the
DIN=
modules together. With the X10 Din modules, do I simply take the incoming =
power cable and wire the Neutral to the top Neutral bar, the incoming
Earth=
to the top Earth bar, and then buy another brass connector block to connec=
t the Live feed to... or do I simply connect the Live to the first DIN
modu=
le and then jumper from each. If I use another brass connector so I have
to=
be concerned about the amount of power i.e. will it get too hot.. how do I=
secure it into the consumer box.. hot melt glue..epoxy glue ?
When wiring the switch to the LD11 I assume I wire one wire to the top of
t=
he DIN module and the other to the common Live feed ?
I'm also wondering if its worth putting a single isolation breaker module
b=
etween the incoming power feed and all the DIN modules so I can isolate
the=
attic without turning off the whole circuit (which includes the main downs=
tairs hallway)
Has anyone got some piccies showing how they have wired theirs ?
I also currently have a strange situation were one ring in the house can
no=
t send X10 messages to another ring. i.e. I have an RF receiver on the
down=
stairs ring and any codes I send via the remote do not hit an appliance
mod=
ule on the upstairs ring. At the moment I get around this by having 2
recei=
ver units (one on each ring) but its not an ideal solution. I have read
abo=
ut X10 failing if the rings are on different phases .. does this effect
the=
UK ?
I don;t think its something on the ring killing the signal (i.e. fridge)
be=
cause I can actually pass messages around devices on that ring just not
fro=
m devices transmitting from another ring..
Any help or advice appreciated
Marcus
UK Home Automation Meet 2004 - BOOK NOW!
http://www.ukha2004.com
http://www.automatedhome.co.uk=20
Member Offers - http://www.freeranger.co.uk/ukha=20
Home |
Main Index |
Thread Index
|