RE: Re: Sky+ at node zero

["Paul" <p-gale@xxxxxxx>]

It's an alarm panel with Home Automation features:

=20

www.comfort.org.uk

Paul.=20

=20

-----Original Message-----
From: Chad Frary [mailto:chad.frary@xxxxxxx]=20
Sent: 06 July 2003 10:09
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Re: Sky+ at node zero

=20

What is this comfort panel stuff used for?

Remember, be nice, I'm new to all of this!

Chad.


-----Original Message-----
From: Paul [mailto:p-gale@xxxxxxx]=20
Sent: 06 July 2003 09:08
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Re: Sky+ at node zero

Forgot to put the link to my pics...



http://www.siliconpixel.com/gallery/HomeAutomation

Paul.=20



-----Original Message-----
From: Paul [mailto:p-gale@xxxxxxx]=20
Sent: 05 July 2003 22:05
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Re: Sky+ at node zero




> Whats the second slave enclosure for?  The two UCM's?



The second enclosure gives another 16 inputs and outputs (with an
additional LEM - local expansion module). The two UCM's - one for
connecting Comfort to a PC running ACE (software to connect all the bits
together - www.customautomationtech.com) and the other to connect
directly to HomeVision. This gives more redundancy and fault tolerance
if the PC or software should fail.


>Now *this* is exactly what I want.  How does the Smartfit connect to=20
>the CH and hot water system?  From the Comfort web site, it looks=20
>like something is placed beside the HW tank.  What about the
existing=20
>CH timer/controller?  Does Smartfit replace this, or work alongside=20
>it?  What wiring is required between node zero, CH=20
>boiler/timer/controller, and HW tank?  My main concern just now is=20
>wiring.



Smartfit is actually a central heating system from Honeywell. The
SmartFit UCM is a special communication module that attaches directly to
the SmartFit heating system and controls it/reports back to Comfort (Hot
water and room temp values). Programming it directly in Comfort is a bit
limited IMO but if you have another system or software connected to
Comfort, the possibilities are endless (control via HomeVision,
schedules, web, IR, telephone, WAP etc). SmartFit is based on a low
voltage control system (I used Cat5e) but does mean replacing your
current control/room unit. I did this myself (as with everything) and it
took less than a day to replace the two H/W and Heating valves and Room
unit, although I'd already previously run Cat5e to the places needed
(simply one cable from the main SmartFit unit to cyclinder sensor, each
valve, room unit and mains power to the boiler). Look on the Comfort web
site for PDF's and other docs that show the wiring and other useful
info.



> At least one PIR in every room (something like 18 rooms/areas)
> How are the PIR's wired to node zero?  Cat5?



No - I used 8 core screened alarm cable (see other posts including
Keith's)




> Extron video matrix switcher (composite and stereo)
>This looks interesting?  Which model do you have? MAV 44 SV looks=20
>good - it will switch 4 S-video inputs to 4 S-video outouts.  Who=20
>supplied it?  I assume you connect the Kat5 TX modules to the output=20
>of the Extron?



MAV128 - 12 COMPOSITE inputs and 8 outputs with stereo audio, all
controllable by the front panel or RS232. It also allows 'audio
breakaway' which means you can switch the audio separately from the
video signals, so if you have sources that are video only, you can use
their stereo components to switch other audio only sources - very
flexible, excellent bit of kit. I didn't need higher quality as this
only for CCTV and video to other areas around the house (AV Room has the
high quality plasma, DVD fed via RGB/YUV). I bought it trade from RGB
comms (something like =A31500).


>What if not all of your TV's have S-video?  For example, I have a=20
>portable for the kitchen that just has an RF input and a scart=20
>input.  Only the larger MAV 168 will work for both S-video and=20
>composite.



SCART can cope with RGB, S-Video and Composite - It's up to the kit what
formats it supports though. I think Keith has answered this one but to
back him up, his EXCELLENT Kat5 units can handle it (I use them for
composite video and stereo distribution) - another =A310 you owe me Keith
;)


> Whole-house audio
>How is this distributed?  How are the sources controlled remotely.



I bought a Kustom KHS6640 multi-source, multi-room amp from the US - it
has IR dist through the wall controllers.




> Various video sources including Sky+ and Sky (freeview)
>How do you control these remotely?  Kat5 doesnt have IR just yet -=20
>thats why I was looking at the IP Homenet solution.



Again - through the Kustom wall controllers (and IR codes setup for
other stuff like controlling all the house lights - that's really cool
).


> 5 CCTV cameras
>What wiring is used for these?



They came with 50m integrated coax and power cables.


>Do you need the Comfort *ands* the Homevision?  Or, put another way,=20
>what does Homevision do that Comfort doesnt?



There's been quite a lot of posts here and on other groups about this in
the past. They really are complimentary - Comfort is a very good alarm
system with HA features, HV is a very powerful and flexible HA
controller but you wouldn't use it as a serious alarm system. Comfort's
HA capability is pretty limited which is why HV is ideal with it. I have
Comfort connected directly to HV via serial - My HV schedule looks for
Comfort status codes etc to know what state the alarm and heating is in
and then does what it needs to do i.e. When the alarm is set to away
mode, my AV Room curtains close (whilst bypassing the PIR for the time
it takes to close the curtains) etc, etc...


>From whay I understand, LD11's require a twin and earth to be run=20
>from
replaced by a momentary switch.  Is there any other change required=20
to the light wiring?



Yes - this was quite a pain, especially effectively re-wiring the whole
house. I left the ceiling roses and wiring in place and ran extra T+E
>from
enclosures are. It was complicated to get my head around as I also put
in a lot of new circuits (bedside lights and switches etc) which had
different wiring layouts to the 'modified' circuits.




> several phone lines distributed via Cat5e patch panels
>What sort of rack do you have?=20=20



19" rack cabinet, something like 5ft high - see pics on my gallery
site
below...


>What do I need to look for when sourcing a phone-to-cat5 patch=20
>panel?  I assume you would wire this in-series:  BTMaster->Comfort-
>patch-panel.



I used a standard Cat5e patch panel (well 3 x 48 way panels). The main
analogue phone line goes through Comfort (required) and out to another
Master socket - this then is wired through to the patch panel in
parallel. I can then patch the line to any outlet. I didn't think this
would be useful as I have DECT phones - but it is pretty flexible esp
for fax etc.


>I'm getting an electrician (plus helper) in.  It has to be done in 5=20
>days, since he goes on holiday afterwards :-(  But this is really=20
>only for the wiring.  I can spend time afterwards connecting it all=20
>up.



I had an electrician friend help me for a week solid - most sparkies
have never come across X10 though, so that may take some explaining.=20



>For cbus, what wiring is required to each light switch?  What is=20
>rerequired at node zero?



Others here can talk to you about CBus - it needs Cat5 or other LV
cabling to the light switches I believe and then the dimmer/control
units at Node0 (or other more suitable position)


> Don't know if that's helped at all - feel free to ask more...
>Yes, this has been very helpful!
>It looks like I've got a lot of planning to do!

Took me months of planning but I still made mistakes and am still
programming it all up - that's the most time consuming part - but an
interesting on-going hobby.



Cheers,



Paul.=20



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