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Re: LW10u - won't turn off ?


  • To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
  • Subject: Re: LW10u - won't turn off ?
  • From: "Marcus Warrington" <marcusw@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 16:34:21 -0000
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

Keith,

Thanks for the prompt reply (as usual).. :)

Yes, you are correct that turning it on is no problem. I can also
turn on and off the lamp (via a plugin lamp module) in our bedroom,
so I suspect that you are right about it being something to do
with the voltage drop..=20

>> Try putting a 200W load on the switch to see if you can then=20
>> turn it off  remotely when it is set to 100%, if you can then=20
>> it would indicate that it needs more power to operate or more
signal.

If this is the case how can I go about this.. the room is only a small
box room and even a 100watt bulb is a little too bright, I wouldn't=20
want to stick a 200watt in there permanently.=20

I assume that using a LD10 or AD10 would help since it doesn't
rely on the voltage drop ?

> If you have a "FILTERED POWERSTRIP" for anything eg HiFi
or=20
> PC equipment, note that the filter is designed to kill interference=20
> on the mains side which means that it will kil X10 dead.

The adjacent room does have all my computer equipment that has around
three extension leads plugged together. I don't know if they are
the filter variety or not but are you saying that if they were they
would kill X10 in that part of the house. Thinking about it I do
remember that I could not get an appliance module to work on those
extensions leads (trying to allow remote reset of a Belkin WAP that
keeps hanging)

Sounds like I need to invest in a filter plug or two..

Cheers & Beers
Marcus

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Original Message
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D
From: Keith Doxey <ukha@xxxxxxx>
Quoting Marcus Warrington <marcusw@xxxxxxx>:

> I just bought and installed an LW10u switch. It works fine as a
> local switch but won't turn OFF via X10 unless I (locally) dim
> the light to about 50%. Its using a 100Watt bulb and will turn=20
> on fine via the HR10u/TW12u just not off. Given that the main
reason=20
> for fitting it was to make sure the light was turned OFF during
> the day, its slightly annoying to say the least... and SWMBO can't
> see why I've spent =A330 on an "ugly" light switch.
>=20
> Can anyone explain to me why I'm seeing this behaviour ?
>=20

Hi Marcus,

Possible explanation....

The LW10 only connects to the Live and SwitchedLive wires so to get power
f=
or=20
its own operation it relies on a small voltage drop across the switch when
=
it=20
is on to obtain enough power to operate. This is also how it receives its
X=
10=20
signals so the lower the drop across the switch, the lower the signal
level=
.

Its possible that when the light is on at 100% there is insufficient
voltag=
e=20
for the signal amplifier to operate properly or that the signal is just
too=
=20
weak. The Local control operates the chip directly so wouldnt be affected
b=
y=20
that. By dimming the light, you are creating a greater voltage drop across
=
the=20
switch thereby giving it more power to operate with and also increasing
the=
=20
signal level to it.

I am assuming that you can turn it on by X10 with no problems. If not then
=
you=20
have a general problems with X10 signal strength.  The signal level is
prob=
ably=20
quite low in that area of the house and it is just on the border line of=20
operating anyway.

My house had been relatively free of X10 problems for almost 6 years but
ha=
ving=20
moved my Laserjet4, added a new PC, and re-arranged some other kit, I now
h=
ave=20
problems with X10.=20

HomeVision no longer "sees" the X10 transmissions from the IR543
in the lou=
nge=20
although both HV and the IR543 can control the lights in the lounge.

Homevision can control the DIN rail module in the kitchen for the Hot
Water=
=20
Heater but for the last 3 weeks cannot control the Appliance module
connect=
ed=20
to the kettle apart from last weekend when it succeeded in turning it off.

I need to dig out some filters that I have to see if I can isolate all the
=
PC=20
and AV gear from soaking up the X10 signals.

Try putting a 200W load on the switch to see if you can then turn it off=20
remotely when it is set to 100%, if you can then it would indicate that it=
=20
needs more power to operate or more signal.

Another thing you can try is to unplug ALL TV sets, Computer Equipment,
all=
=20
appliances fitted with motors, and anything else that has a switch mode
pow=
er=20
supply. If it then works perfectly it will indicate that something in the
h=
ouse=20
is soaking up the X10 signal and needs to be filtered.

Start plugging stuff back in until it stops working but BEWARE... it may
no=
t be=20
any single item causing the problem, it could be the cumalative effect
of=20
several devices. If you have all your PC equipment fed via a distribution
b=
oard=20
then a single X10 filter on the input to that will effectively isolate all
=
the=20
gear from the mains wiring.

If you have a "FILTERED POWERSTRIP" for anything eg HiFi or PC
equipment, n=
ote=20
that the filter is designed to kill interference on the mains side which
me=
ans=20
that it will kil X10 dead.

Hope that helps

Keith


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