[Date Prev][Date
Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date
Index][Thread Index]
Re: LW10u - won't turn off ?
- To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
- Subject: Re: LW10u - won't turn off ?
- From: "Marcus Warrington" <marcusw@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 16:34:21 -0000
- Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact
ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
- Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Keith,
Thanks for the prompt reply (as usual).. :)
Yes, you are correct that turning it on is no problem. I can also
turn on and off the lamp (via a plugin lamp module) in our bedroom,
so I suspect that you are right about it being something to do
with the voltage drop..=20
>> Try putting a 200W load on the switch to see if you can then=20
>> turn it off remotely when it is set to 100%, if you can then=20
>> it would indicate that it needs more power to operate or more
signal.
If this is the case how can I go about this.. the room is only a small
box room and even a 100watt bulb is a little too bright, I wouldn't=20
want to stick a 200watt in there permanently.=20
I assume that using a LD10 or AD10 would help since it doesn't
rely on the voltage drop ?
> If you have a "FILTERED POWERSTRIP" for anything eg HiFi
or=20
> PC equipment, note that the filter is designed to kill interference=20
> on the mains side which means that it will kil X10 dead.
The adjacent room does have all my computer equipment that has around
three extension leads plugged together. I don't know if they are
the filter variety or not but are you saying that if they were they
would kill X10 in that part of the house. Thinking about it I do
remember that I could not get an appliance module to work on those
extensions leads (trying to allow remote reset of a Belkin WAP that
keeps hanging)
Sounds like I need to invest in a filter plug or two..
Cheers & Beers
Marcus
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Original Message
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D
From: Keith Doxey <ukha@xxxxxxx>
Quoting Marcus Warrington <marcusw@xxxxxxx>:
> I just bought and installed an LW10u switch. It works fine as a
> local switch but won't turn OFF via X10 unless I (locally) dim
> the light to about 50%. Its using a 100Watt bulb and will turn=20
> on fine via the HR10u/TW12u just not off. Given that the main
reason=20
> for fitting it was to make sure the light was turned OFF during
> the day, its slightly annoying to say the least... and SWMBO can't
> see why I've spent =A330 on an "ugly" light switch.
>=20
> Can anyone explain to me why I'm seeing this behaviour ?
>=20
Hi Marcus,
Possible explanation....
The LW10 only connects to the Live and SwitchedLive wires so to get power
f=
or=20
its own operation it relies on a small voltage drop across the switch when
=
it=20
is on to obtain enough power to operate. This is also how it receives its
X=
10=20
signals so the lower the drop across the switch, the lower the signal
level=
.
Its possible that when the light is on at 100% there is insufficient
voltag=
e=20
for the signal amplifier to operate properly or that the signal is just
too=
=20
weak. The Local control operates the chip directly so wouldnt be affected
b=
y=20
that. By dimming the light, you are creating a greater voltage drop across
=
the=20
switch thereby giving it more power to operate with and also increasing
the=
=20
signal level to it.
I am assuming that you can turn it on by X10 with no problems. If not then
=
you=20
have a general problems with X10 signal strength. The signal level is
prob=
ably=20
quite low in that area of the house and it is just on the border line of=20
operating anyway.
My house had been relatively free of X10 problems for almost 6 years but
ha=
ving=20
moved my Laserjet4, added a new PC, and re-arranged some other kit, I now
h=
ave=20
problems with X10.=20
HomeVision no longer "sees" the X10 transmissions from the IR543
in the lou=
nge=20
although both HV and the IR543 can control the lights in the lounge.
Homevision can control the DIN rail module in the kitchen for the Hot
Water=
=20
Heater but for the last 3 weeks cannot control the Appliance module
connect=
ed=20
to the kettle apart from last weekend when it succeeded in turning it off.
I need to dig out some filters that I have to see if I can isolate all the
=
PC=20
and AV gear from soaking up the X10 signals.
Try putting a 200W load on the switch to see if you can then turn it off=20
remotely when it is set to 100%, if you can then it would indicate that it=
=20
needs more power to operate or more signal.
Another thing you can try is to unplug ALL TV sets, Computer Equipment,
all=
=20
appliances fitted with motors, and anything else that has a switch mode
pow=
er=20
supply. If it then works perfectly it will indicate that something in the
h=
ouse=20
is soaking up the X10 signal and needs to be filtered.
Start plugging stuff back in until it stops working but BEWARE... it may
no=
t be=20
any single item causing the problem, it could be the cumalative effect
of=20
several devices. If you have all your PC equipment fed via a distribution
b=
oard=20
then a single X10 filter on the input to that will effectively isolate all
=
the=20
gear from the mains wiring.
If you have a "FILTERED POWERSTRIP" for anything eg HiFi or PC
equipment, n=
ote=20
that the filter is designed to kill interference on the mains side which
me=
ans=20
that it will kil X10 dead.
Hope that helps
Keith
Home |
Main Index |
Thread Index
|