Re: ir transmitter some success

["andy_powell_is" <ukha@xxxxxxx>]

Does sthat still mean the first design is 'bad' Ian? or does that 
make it 'fixed'

Andy


--- In ukha_d@y..., "Ian B" <Ian@M...> wrote:
> You're right Frank. I was going on memory from when I did my relay
board
> mark 1 and got it wrong. Checked the help files after pressing send
Dohh!
> 
> Ian B
> 
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Frank Mc Alinden [mailto:armagh@b...]
> >Sent: 02 June 2002 13:52
> >To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: [ukha_d] Re: ir transmitter some success
> >
> >
> >Sorry Ian
>
>               
Port A  does switch to ground . The chip is a 
uln2803.
> >Checked the manual  to be sure . Also im using the mux pins
as 
being driven
> >by open collector .
> >Frank Mc
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Ian B" <Ian@M...>
> >To: <ukha_d@y...>
> >Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 10:35 PM
> >Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Re: ir transmitter some success
> >
> >
> >> Andy
> >>
> >> I think the logic behind this circuit is flawed which is 
probably a case
> >of
> >> too much advice from different sources, myself included.
Using 
the
> >> components you have already you could make the 'More' circuit
on
> >breadboard
> >> as per www.mollyology.com then HV IR. I would recommend you
do 
this.
> >>
> >> Problems with the one mentioned below are
> >> a) I don't think PORTA sinks to ground. It is a relay port
which 
means it
> >> simply switches between contacts. You could then connect one
of 
those to
> >> ground to achieve what you want but this is not very
elegant.
> >> b) The ground in this case (not the HV port one) would be the
IR 
ground
> >> which would turn on and off the LEDs. It would be better and
safer if the
> >> ground was direct to ground controlled by a transistor which
in
> >turn would
> >> be controlled by the IR port.
> >>
> >> In all honesty the circuit on my web page is very similar
but
> >works around
> >> the problems above.
> >>
> >> Sorry.............
> >>
> >> Ian B
> >>
> >> >-----Original Message-----
> >> >From: andy_powell_is [mailto:ukha@b...]
> >> >Sent: 02 June 2002 12:57
> >> >To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> >> >Subject: [ukha_d] Re: ir transmitter some success
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Frank,
> >> >
> >> >No, those seems to be very different from the
original...
> >> >
> >> >If you look at http://www.automated.it/homevision/HVIR2.jpg
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >that's what I'm doing, tho the Hovevision port ground
isn't in 
the
> >> >circuit... I've just tested on my circuit and if I put a
ground
> >> >connectoin in where it is on the diagram it fixes the
probelm... so
> >> >the question is does Port A go to ground? is this safe to
do?
> >> >
> >> >Andy
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >--- In ukha_d@y..., "Frank Mc Alinden"
<armagh@b...> wrote:
> >> >> Hi Andy
> >>
>>             
The other guys must be busy,so i,ll have a go, 
Are you
> >> >using
> >> >> one of the circuits  Ian B has on his site .
If  so which one
> >> >> Frank mc
> >> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> >> From: "andy_powell_is"
<ukha@b...>
> >> >> To: <ukha_d@y...>
> >> >> Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 9:18 PM
> >> >> Subject: [ukha_d] Re: ir transmitter some
success
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Frank Ian, Ian,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > I've actually found a problem :(
> >> >> >
> >> >> > When +5v is applied to the base of the first
transistor, 
even if
> >> >the
> >> >> > collector is not connected, the 2nd transistor
is supplying
> >> >current
> >> >> > to the LEDs... I don't understand that. didn't
think it 
should
> >> >> > happen :(
> >> >> >
> >> >> > any ideas
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Andy
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> > --- In ukha_d@y..., "Frank Mc
Alinden" <armagh@b...> wrote:
> >> >> > > Hi Andy
> >> >> >
>            
Isnt it  brill when things go right .Your 
doing
> >> >great.
> >> >> > Good idea
> >> >> > > about the Basic Stamp. I spent all day
yesterday 
frustrated .
> >> >You
> >> >> > wouldnt
> >> >> > > learn much if everything went right ,its
when it goes 
wrong
> >> >thats
> >> >> > when you
> >> >> > > learn. Did you post your photos on Marks
Website ? if so 
how?
> >> >> > > Good Luck
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > > Frank Mc
> >> >> > > ----- Original Message -----
> >> >> > > From: "andy_powell_is"
<ukha@b...>
> >> >> > > To: <ukha_d@y...>
> >> >> > > Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:18 PM
> >> >> > > Subject: [ukha_d] Re: ir transmitter some
success
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > >
> >> >> > > > Good stuff Frank... at the moment I
am just using this 
to
> >> >learn,
> >> >> > in
> >> >> > > > the end I'll probably end up using
one of the designs 
>from
> >> >> > > > experts...
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > I've had a little brainwave here
too... before 
connecting to
> >> >> > > > Homevision I'm actually going to
sacrifice a basic 
stamp..
> >> >(well
> >> >> > > > sacfrifice is'tn the right word as it
SHOULD be ok
> >> >afterwards)..
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > The Basic stamp can cope with 30ma
max per pin and 60ma 
per 8
> >> >> > pins..
> >> >> > > > which means if i create a fake
homevision using the 
basic
> >> >stamp I
> >> >> > can
> >> >> > > > certainly check on the current draw
before the final
> >> >connection..
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > Obviously this is the final test
before connecting to
> >> >homevision..
> >> >> > > > before all that I need to take some
measurements.... 
but I
> >> >have
> >> >> > > > transferred the first bit from 
breadboard to
> >> >stripboard... :D :D
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > and it works!! :D .. I'm just using
this one really as
> >> >> > layout...and
> >> >> > > > testing, I need to compress  it
really...
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > I also think I have got it down to
about 512ma total of 
8 X 9
> >> >> > leds, i
> >> >> > > > think by chance I managed to get some
sensitive ir 
emitter
> >> >leds I
> >> >> > > > need to double check but I think I
can get away with 
600ohm
> >> >> > (possibly
> >> >> > > > more as the emitters will be right
beside the internal 
IR
> >> >> > receiver of
> >> >> > > > any kit) resistors for them and the
visible leds have 
3.9k
> >> >> > resistors
> >> >> > > > and are still fairly bright... (again
all by chance)
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > Part numbers for farnell are:
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > 178301 Ir Emitter
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > (farnell datasheet
> >> >http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/5344.pdf
)
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > 3013900 yellow led
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > (no datasheet at farnell but it is at
www.marl.co.uk  
marl
> >> >part no
> >> >> > > > 352-582-20 )
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > Andy
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > >
> >> >> > > > --- In ukha_d@y..., "Frank Mc
Alinden" <armagh@b...> 
wrote:
> >> >> > > > > Hi Andy , Ian + Ian
> >> >> > > >
>                            
Had some success today 
with the
> >> >8
> >> >> > zone
> >> >> > > > ir controller . I decided to bypass
the opto connected 
to
> >> >> > incoming ir
> >> >> > > > signal from Hv to confirm my
suspicions. Tried it again 
and it
> >> >> > worked
> >> >> > > > but only with two ir leds inserted in
the Zone 
Splitter .
> >> >Looked
> >> >> > at
> >> >> > > > my schematic and realised it was
slightly different to 
my
> >> >homebrew
> >> >> > > > circuit. In my homebrew unit the
driver transistors were
> >> >connected
> >> >> > > > common emitter but my new circuit was
common 
collector .Re
> >> >did the
> >> >> > > > driver transistors and tried again.
Now works with all 
8 ir
> >> >leds
> >> >> > in
> >> >> > > > Zone Splitter on all Zones . The
range is approx 15ft 
and i
> >> >> > monitored
> >> >> > > > the current which was approx 
5mA . I set up my Hv 
ports thru
> >> >the
> >> >> > > > control menu rather than a macro at
this stage just to
> >> >confirm my
> >> >> > > > hardware was connected ok. Would
still like to use opto
> >> >isolation
> >> >> > on
> >> >> > > > the incoming ir ,will order something
from rs 
components. Now
> >> >must
> >> >> > > > update my drawing before i
forget.
> >> >> > > > >
> >> >> > > > > Frank Mc
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> For more information: http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
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> >
> >
> >
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> >



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