RE: newbie cable issues + no brainer questions

["Mark Harrison" <Mark.Harrison@xxxxxxx>]

> Now, if only the group could earn commission ;)

Nope... don't pay commission.

Why do you think the prices are so low :-)

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: James Hoye [mailto:james.hoye@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 10 July 2002 13:18
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] newbie cable issues + no brainer questions


> Ok, ok, all this talk of power tools has finally made me bite.

That's what we're here for....  Now, if only the group could earn
commission
;)

> * What is and SDS / Rotary Stop Drill?  Does it stop quickly or
sommat.
> * How is it differnent to a normal hammer drill?

SDS drills have a quick change chuck that don't require a key.
Consequently, you need SDS drill bits which have a keyed shank to mate
with
the chuck.  The good news is that these bits aren't that expensive
http://www.screwfix.com/shop_product.html?0762
and last much longer.

A normal 'percussion' hammer drill isn't particularly effective at
drilling
into hard materials like concrete (it won't!).  The SDS variety have
a
sliding hammer that strikes the end of the drill bit - this means they
WILL
drill through concrete!  They also drill much more quickly, as the
sliding
hammer generates more energy.

I have http://www.screwfix.com/shop_product.html?1493
and
http://www.screwfix.com/shop_product.html?8060  
Only the mains DeWalt one
has rotary stop.

Most SDS drills have a hammer and hammer stop mode, like ordinary
'hammer'
drills.  Useful for drilling into wood, screw driving and using
attachments
that must be set to hammer stop (or they tend to fall to bits!).

Rotary stop is where the drill doesn't rotate, but the sliding hammer
is
still in action.  Not all SDS drills have rotary stop.

> * Chisels, on a drill?

With SDS chisels http://www.screwfix.com/shop_product.html?5618,
you use the
rotary stop mode and you now have a power chisel/bolster.  As these
drills
deliver many blows per minute, it is more effective at cutting through
bricks etc. than you with a hammer and bolster.

> * Fancey attachements for chassing coduits and back boxes?

The conduit chaser http://www.screwfix.com/shop_product.html?6724
is a
chisel shaped like a scoop and is designed for cutting channels for
cables
(like lots of CAT5).  Back box sinkers
http://www.screwfix.com/shop_product.html?16114
are an easy (but messy) way
of making a square shaped hole in solid walls.  There are two
stages
involved here - firstly you use the cutter to create a large, circular
hole
that is deep enough for your box.  You then switch the drill to rotary
stop
and hammer in the square cutter which removes the corners left behind.

> Simpletons explanation please.  I've done most of my cabling by
drilling
> lots of little holes, and then using a hammer and chizel, or the drill
to
> join the dots so to speak.

That's how I started.  I now use an SDS chisel to do the dot joining
:)
(still haven't bought a channelling chisel)

James H



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