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Re: Electronics help & Light beam sensors


  • To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: Re: Electronics help & Light beam sensors
  • From: "psghome2002" <psghome@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 17:01:13 -0000
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

Yes - you were absolutely right - Thanks. In fact it has a double
set - one for 'door nearly closed/open' and one for 'door fully
closed/open'

--- In ukha_d@y..., "Simon Coates" <ecolume@g...> wrote: > The door limits may be single pole double throw ie. they have a NO and a NC
> contact. Which ever contact the garage door circuitry uses then
use the
> other contact with HV.  Check for a voltage across the two wires =
that go to
> the switch.  HV's port B will be able to cope with a volt free switch or a
> dc voltage up to 30V.
>
> Simon
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: psghome2002 <psghome@h...>
> To: <ukha_d@y...>
> Sent: 23 June 2002 17:26
> Subject: [ukha_d] Re: Electronics help & Light beam sensors
>
>
> Thanks Ian,
>
> I'd be interested to see the article although I have now just seen a
> dual beam break sensor for =A335 on the Maplin web site. I guess it > might be quicker and easier to try this? It quotes a 30m range with > relay contact output. It does say indoor use but I guess it should
> be OK in the garage.
>
> On another related query - I've been thinking about how to sense
> when the garage door is open or closed. I could use a set of micro
> switches and relevant levers etc but then thought why not use the
> travel limiting switches in the electric door opener? The main
> gearing cogs have an open and closed limiter which is adjustable
and
> makes contact with two micro switches. These switches are obviously > then used to stop the motor when reached.
>
> I'm not sure if I can 'tap' into this switch in parallel and use it > as an input to HomeVision without affecting the door opener
> circuitry? Would I need to isolate it in some way?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Paul.
>
> --- In ukha_d@y..., "Ian B" <Ian@M...> wrote:
> > Hi Paul
> >
> > I read something recently about beam breaks and the strategy was<= BR> > in that
> > case to modulate the IR to 36 Khz but then speed things up again<= BR> > by a factor
> > I don't remember. (Read the article) OK, the on period is again > modulated
> > onto 300 Khz. The net effect of this meant that the system was > very low
> > power consumption and immune to most IR sources e.g. remotes.
> Direct
> > sunlight might need some shading but that would not be a problem<= BR> > for you.
> >
> > There was no range quoted but it uses a TSOP or similar and 555 > timers. If
> > you like I can dig out the article and mail it to you or if more<= BR> > folks want
> > to read about it I will put it up on my site - you guys choose. > >
> > Ian B
> >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: psghome2002 [mailto:psghome@h...]
> > >Sent: 23 June 2002 14:58
> > >To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx > > >Subject: [ukha_d] Electronics help & Light beam sensors > > >
> > >
> > >I'm trying to make up a combined parking sensor and garage do= or
> > >safety switch to be fitted to the inside of the door frame an= d
> > >looking across the opening (double garage width). I imagine t= he
> > >output to be linked to HomeVision which, in turn, will allow = my
> > >Comfort system to close the door (or not) depending on any number
> of
> > >factors I choose to program. I'll also have a couple of high<= BR> > > >intensity LEDs (red and green) mounted in a box on the far en= d
of
> > >the garage wall so I can tell when the cars are far enough in= to
> > >close the door (or if there's an obstruction).
> > >
> > >The signalling, interface to the electric garge door and LED'= s
are
> > >pretty simple and not a problem but the light beam sensor is.= I
> > >bought one of those Velleman kit form beam break sensors that=
uses
> > >two IR LED's (transmit) and a single receive LED. Unfortunate= ly
> the
> > >range is about half of what I need. I'm also wondering if IR =
beam
> is
> > >the best technology to use (poss interference from remotes, > sunlight
> > >etc)?
> > >
> > >The transmit circuit looks pretty simple with just a few
> resistors,
> > >capacitors and three transistors. Might it be possible to boo= st
> the
> > >transmit power enough using this circuit, or should I look fo= r
> > >another sensor - I've had a look at what RS offer but most of=
them
> > >are pretty expensive and only a few offer the range I need. > > >
> > >Any thoughts / suggestions?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Paul.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >For more information: http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
> > >Post message: ukha_d@xxxxxxx > > >Subscribe:  ukha_d-subscribe@xxxxxxx > > >Unsubscribe:  ukha_d-unsubscribe@xxxxxxx > > >List owner:  ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx > > >
> > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/in= fo/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
> For more information: http:= //www.automatedhome.co.uk
> Post message: ukha_d@xxxxxxx > Subscribe:  ukha_d-subscribe@xxxxxxx > Unsubscribe:  ukha_d-unsubscribe@xxxxxxx > List owner:  ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx >
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