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RE: Cabling the house
- To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
- Subject: RE: Cabling the house
- From: "Phil Harris" <phillip.harris1@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 11:12:24 +0100
- Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
- Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact
ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
- Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
I've been looking for a circular saw with a depth adjustment for just this
purpose.
However given the diameter of a circular saw blade then you do find that
the
lead in and lead out from the cuts are quite a length and must weaken the
resultant floor when the panel is dropped back in quite a bit.
I have a tool somewhere that cuts something like a 15cm diameter hole in a
floor panel and then you fill the hole with a plastic "bung"
which is
removeable whenever you need to gain access again. These sit quite flush
with the surface of the floor and are quite strong so you dont notice any
flexing (although I doubt whether they'd take a bed castor directly in the
centre of them) ... problem is I had to retire the tool to the loft as I
ran
out of the bungs and couldn't find more. I think that QVS have the tool in
this months brochure on special.
Phil
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Brockhurst [mailto:andy@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 15 September 2001 10:22
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Cabling the house
>
>
> When a guy came to do some work on my old house.
> He had a circular saw contraption which cut at 45deg to the vertical.
> It also cut a circular hole out of the floor at a fixed radius.
> It had a bag of grommit dohickeys which he dropped into the hole and
then
> the cutout back on top, the grommits and the 45deg angle made it
secure,
> no squeaks and also it was easy to take it back up it you needed to
make
> changes.
>
> even worse ascii art follows (if it looks pants try a fixed font)
>
> __________ __________ _____________
> floor \ \cutout / / floor
> ___________\ \______/ /_____________
>
> Hole was about 1.5 ft in diameter.
>
> the grommit dohickey went between the flooring an the cutout and made
up
> for the lost wood to keep the levels of the top the same.
>
> Cool peice of kit, don't know if you can hire them. It you have a
> circular saw you might be able to rig something up yourself to cut at
> 45deg, if it won't do it normally, and a square hole and try and find
> something to use as a grommit.
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Keith Doxey" <ukha@xxxxxxx>
> To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
> Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 22:37:17 +0100
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Cabling the house
>
> > <html><body>
> > <tt>
> > The chipboard flooring will be VERY WEAK if you do
that.<BR>
> > <BR>
> > Flooring panels intelock along their edges to give support to
each
> > other<BR>
> > which is why you cant easily get them up again.<BR>
> > <BR>
> > If you do that you will have to fix a batten along the cut edge
of the
> > floor<BR>
> > to provide support to the replaced flooring. Very bad ASCII
drawing
> > follows<BR>
> > <BR>
> > floor loose bit floor<BR>
> > ------ ----------- ----<BR>
> >
> > ___ ___<BR>
> > <BR>
> >
> > ^ ^<BR>
> > battens to support panel<BR>
> > <BR>
> > <BR>
> > Keith<BR>
> > <BR>
> > <BR>
> > > -----Original Message-----<BR>
> > > From: Mark Kaye [mailto:mark@xxxxxxx]<BR>
> > > Sent: 13 September 2001 21:16<BR>
> > > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx<BR>
> > > Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Cabling the house<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > I am considering cutting some of the chipboard up with a
> > shallow<BR>
> > > circular saw before nailing it back down again. Obviously
> > before the<BR>
> > > carpets go in! Not sure if that will help. To be
> > honest I was gutted<BR>
> > > about the situation and haven't really thought about it
> > much. I was<BR>
> > > going to floodwire but given the task (it took me 2 days to
route
> > 8<BR>
> > > cables in my current place after being built) I don't think
I'll
> > be<BR>
> > > patient enough not to cut corners - a very bad
thing.<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > Ohh well. Any advice welcome.<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > > -----Original Message-----<BR>
> > > > From: Phil Harris [mailto:phillip.harris1@xxxxxxx]<BR>
> > > ><BR>
> > > > > I did notice (before the dry<BR>
> > > > > lining) that the stud partitions have horizontal
> > bracing<BR>
> > > > which will make<BR>
> > > > > it _very_ difficult to drop wires down now the
lining
> > has gone up.<BR>
> > > ><BR>
> > > > That's normal ... in many ways it's far easier to have
solid
> > walls.<BR>
> > > ><BR>
> > > > I found out the same myself ... I thought stud walls
would
> > be<BR>
> > > > easier but<BR>
> > > > no...<BR>
> > > ><BR>
> > > > > Has anyone got any ideas on the best way to wire
up a
> > newly<BR>
> > > > built house?<BR>
> > > ><BR>
> > > > Carefully...<BR>
> > > ><BR>
> > > > Phil<BR>
> > ><BR>
> > ><BR>
> > > For more information: <a
> > href="http://www.automatedhome.co.uk";>http://www.automatedhome.co.uk</a
> > ><BR>
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