Automating the loo lights and other cool stuff- was: Re: "Breaking" the latch on a pull switch

["Mark Hetherington" <mark.egroups@xxxxxxx>]

--- In ukha_d@y..., "Kenneth Watt" <kennethwatt@y...>
wrote:
[hardwired vs RF]

Hard wired is not too big an issue for the bathroom since I have easy=20
access via the attic and with Node zero (the ex-airing cupboard)=20
being on the same floor I am fine with running wires between the two.=20

>=20
> What I did was this:
>=20
> At one corner of the bathroom I mounted a PIR and on the door I=20
mounted the
> door/window magnetic contact switch. I wired both back to an input=20
port on
> HV so HV could control and track the status of the bathroom and or=20
the
> lights and extraction fan. I think you can do much the same in other
> systems, but I have no experience with them.

I like the idea of using "standard" parts to provide automation
:)

But the main reason I was thinking RF is that I do not have HV and=20
since I will be dedicating a PC, HV seems expensive to use simply as=20
an input board since I am sure there will be a cheaper PC based=20
option.=20

My main issue with HV is despite its multi functionality, if it=20
breaks I am replacing the whole unit rather than one board or part in=20
a dedicated PC. At close to =A3500 it would take a lot of persuading to=20
get me to invest in such a unit. I learned many years ago from my=20
first PC, which had everything on the motherboard, that modularity=20
was definitely more cost effective and upgradable and do not wish to=20
be stung again.=20

Since you mentioned it when we first began the bathroom discussion I=20
have looked at the unit and it does combine a number of things I=20
eventually want but my main gripe is the lack of modularity. If it=20
was upgradable or more modular I would probably go for it. It may=20
cost a little more to get all of the functionality of HV using a=20
purely PC based solution but I know that repair and upgrade will be=20
far cheaper so long term will be more cost effective.

I will leave it to you and other HV users to persuade me otherwise.=20
This application you presented for bathroom lighting has me looking=20
much more seriously at it so I am not entirely a lost cause :)

[lighting]

Currently I have a single fitting using a "normal" 60W bulb but
am=20
looking at adding some flush ceiling mounted halogens (but will be=20
ensuring dimming capability first) so have an LD10 running the=20
lights. At the moment the light is on more than off until I fully=20
resolve the pull switch problem so not much energy saving at the=20
moment.=20

One of my aims with HA is as much support as possible for people used=20
to "normal" systems so that I can have visitors who are not
plunged=20
into darkness if something fails and are not too uncomfortable when=20
thay cannot find a light switch.=20

> Anyway, next I hooked the
> extraction fan up to an AD10 as well, seems extravagant but it's=20
not. The
> trick was that the bathroom was right next to the bedroom and if=20
one of us
> got up during the night the light from the fan could wake up the=20
person
> sleeping, so I set it up so that during the night the extraction=20
system was
> disabled, and let's face it, it's not often I wake up at 2AM=20
wanting a
> shower!!=20

Very true. To be honest I am seriously considering wiring the shower=20
mains switch to an AD10. I originally joked with a friend about=20
having it enable disable the actual shower itself (by leaving the=20
start/stop button pressed) but to be honest just want to make sure I=20
turn it off when not in use as is recommended, since I often forget=20
to do so. Writing this message just remined me to turn it off for the=20
night :) I am not sure how important it is to switch the shower power=20
supply off or how long is considered reasonable on time so any advice=20
on that would be appreciated.

> A BIK sensor in the new bathroom and en-suite to accomplish the=20
same thing

I think I will be another one in the line for BIK sensors once the=20
group has it all worked out :)

> One serious word of caution to anyone thinking of doing this=20
though; I still
> walk out most bathrooms expecting the lights to go off of their own=20
accord,
> you do get used to it rather quickly ;-)

LOL. I was telling a friend of mine about the soft on/off that I now=20
get from LD10 over the phone and he was switching his light on and=20
off while I talked to him complaining about how bad the "normal"
way=20
is compared to soft on/off and he hadn't even seen it! I dread to=20
think how he will be after playing with my house!

> Now if I could find a humidity and a (possibly) IR sensor that can=20
pick up
> steam and/or heat, I intend automating a cooker hood internally so=20
that it
> can operate the lights and fan from an appliance DIN module.=20

When you work it out let me know, I have been eying up the cooker=20
hood for the last couple days wishing I could automate it somehow :)


> Internally modifying a washer or a dishwasher is no problem
> for by actually finding somewhere to mount the module - so long as=20
it is not
> an electronic machine, this is extremely important, as some need a=20
constant
> feed! If anyone needs any info just get me the make and model and=20
so long as
> I can get a schematic it's no problem to figure it out if you want=20
to use
> white meter or suchlike.

Probably a dumb question but what is a white meter?=20

> Hope that's enough info for one night!

All very welcome... although I am going to be up all night listing=20
what I can automate next... hehe.=20

Mark.




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Automated Home UK
http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
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