RE: iButton Control of your doors!

["Ian" <I.Bird@xxxxxxx>]

cc-concepts iButton access system installed!

>From the original post I bought one of these systems from cc-concepts.
I
bought the basic one which is the circuit board, components, mounting box
and 1 button and reader. It was 69 dollars inc shipping but cost an extra
11
pounds in UK tax and took 3 weeks to arrive. Most of that was delay in
shipping from cc rather than travel time.

I was taken back a little as I was not expecting to have to build it (no
idea why though). Practise your soldering first as some bits are a little
tricky (small). It worked first time though which was nice.

It is now installed with a M*****s fail secure electric lock. The unit sits
with homevision and has two types of output if you like. There is a relay
which is controlled by the board and triggers when a recognised button is
read. I don't use this as I wanted finer control. There are also some
header
pins which go to 5 volts when specific keys are recognised. 1 pin per key.
This means I can determine which key has been presented. This works really
well so I can lock the inlaws out unless their visit is agreed (heh heh).
The lock opening is driven from HV and the logic as to whether someone can
get in is simply flags. So far so good. There is a cat5 cable to the door
and all the cores are used for: lock, button reader, override button and bi
colour LED. The LED and reader share a ground. I bought some extra buttons
(the thick ones as there are two sorts now) and keyfobs from M*****s for
not
very much. Since the alarm is home brewed and HV based I use access via a
'key' to disarm it.

Ironically the most expensive bit was the Yale lock. This is an automatic
deadlock variety to stop forced exit from indoors (i.e. burglar). There is
a
manual override to get out button as well but this only works when the
alarm
is disarmed.

I had two problems with the electric lock. The first was it didn't open
quite far enough. Removing some of the aluminium stop cured this problem
(but don't break the wires as I did cos they are the devils own to repair).
The second problem was I was planning to use deadlocks but the electric
lock
opened to let the door open but then sprung shut via a spring. This meant
the lock bit could not get back into the recess. A real pain and the only
answer I could this of was a Yale type of solution.

We'll see how it goes over the next few weeks. The power failure problem is
simply to go back to the keys. I guess you don't have to carry these but
they must be outside......

Ian

p.s. reading this list is great but quite expensive!

-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart Grimshaw [mailto:stuart@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 15 October 2000 16:04
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [ukha_d] iButton Control of your doors!


Farnell have a similar system, but not as complete as the CC one.

Order numbers 735-851 and 735-863 are the decoder & relay board.


At 10:11 15/10/00 +0100, you wrote:
>Just read an article in Home Automator on this device from CC Concepts
that
>easily interfaces iButtons to electric door jams.
>
>After seeing Michael's iButton in the "flesh" at meeting 4 on
Thursday
night
>this looks like a nice idea!  Anyone on this list done it yet?
>
>http://www.cc-concepts.com/products/ilock/
>
>M.
>
>_____________________________________
>The UKs Premier Home Automation Site
>http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
>_____________________________________
>
>

,,,
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Stuart Grimshaw
sg@xxxxxxx
Special Projects Developer   www.schoolsnet.com               t: 07976
625221
Schoolsnet LTD                 .oooO  Oooo.                   f: 0870
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