Re: What can I replace this latching relay system with?

[sonodocsch@xxxxxxxxx]

On Tuesday, August 1, 2006 at 11:38:14 AM UTC-4, Steve Wechsler wrote:
> Wow, you guys are great!
>=20
> Unfotunately, it's probably going to be a couple of weeks before I can
> do a complete trace of all wiring. Here's what I know so far:
>=20
> 1) Wall switches are installed in frames embedded in plaster rather
> than full electric boxes, and are horizontal (The frames are
> horizontal, but the switches are vertical. This configuration is no
> longer sold by GE). Most plates only have one switch installed, but
> some have two or three.
> 2) Latching relays are installed inside ceiling boxes. Low voltage
> wires do not enter the boxes directly, but instead enter the relays
> through an entry in the side drilled through the box. There is no
> central controller. Unswitched 120V wiring runs to each ceiling box.
> 3) There is three conductor low voltage wiring going from each switch
> to the ceiling box that it controls. Some relays have more than one
> switch controlling them.
> 4) All boxes have a two conductor wire for power from a central
> transformer. The power wire is daisy chained.
> 5) Some relays have an additional wire running from them to a 9-way
> remote rotary controller.
>=20
> I guess what I was hoping was that there would be something like an
> RS422 network that I could run on the existing wires. I may need to
> back to those controllers that Marc mentioned (but unfortunately those
> don't even provide for any automation).
>=20
> Steve

I happened onto this thread while thinking about replacing my low-voltage l=
atching relay system with solid-state relays. I am less interested in home =
automation than having more reliable relays. My house was built in 1956 and=
 there are two boxes in the attic full of the relays and wiring out. Our ho=
use also has a couple of the rotary switch, multiple location systems. One =
thing I am amazed at is that one of these switches has a lighted panel I th=
ink there's a small neon bulb in there. I know neon lamps last for a long t=
ime, but I think this is the original lamp and it still works.

You can get replacement relays for the system. They are General Electric RR=
-series. The system I have uses RR-7 relays (single pole).

Here are some examples (note the varying prices for them) - I have no finan=
cial interest in any of these suppliers:

https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/ge-rr7-low-voltage-remote-control-relay-sw=
itch/

https://www.kele.com/lighting-controls/rr-7,-rr-9.aspx

http://www.galesburgelectric.com/ge-rr7-20a-spst-low-voltage-relay-total-li=
ghting-control/

Just Google RR-7 relay and you will get quite a few hits.

One thing I have thought of is that each low-voltage switch is basically a =
momentary contact, single pole-double throw switch. Any low-resistance conn=
ection across the common and one of the wires will close the circuit to the=
 relay and open or close it. I have wanted timers (yes, I know home automat=
ion can centralize this) on some of the outside lights, but these are on th=
e relays. If I wired in an SPDT timer, it should work fine. My thought was =
to put a jack on the wallplate that parallels the three conductors - I coul=
d plug in a timer module into that when needed.

Anyway, if you want to keep the original system, replacement relays (and mo=
unting panels) are available. Some of the new mounting panels (GE "Smart Sw=
eep") allow for home automation interfaces and still use the RR-series rela=
ys. These panels are fairly expensive, though. There are also replacements =
for the wall switches - some with lighting and some keyed. The suppliers wh=
o sell GE lighting products should have all these.=20

We now have a mix of direct wired and low-voltage relay switched outlets an=
d lighting. Very fortunately, the house was wired with copper grounded cabl=
ing, so all the outlets, even the original ones (though the ground went to =
the box with a two-prong outlet). I replaced those with three-prong, ground=
ed outlets and checked them all for proper hot-neutral wiring and grounding=
.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Steve Horii