Re: XPS3 Strangeness

["Jeff Volp" <JeffVolp@xxxxxxx>]

"David White" <whitedavidp@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:laKdnfzmKaQr94nVnZ2dnUVZ_tOtnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> I basically understand the plug-in SignalLinc products as well as the
> hardwired ones like these <http://www.smarthome.com/4823.html> and
> <http://www.smarthome.com/2406h.html>. So can you can help me understand
> Jeff's products?
>
> (a) The XTB unit seems less than ideal for my purposes as it lacks a
> bridge between both power supply sources. It also seems like my controller
> MUST be plugged into the XTB (but I am not sure about this) for it to
> boost its output. If true, I'd need one per controller and that seems
> inefficient for my needs (I have three now and likely more in the future).

Yes, the smaller XTB only boosts the output of a transmitter that is plugged
into it.
>
> (b) I am not sure but it seems like the XTB-IIR does NOT require that my
> controller be plugged into it directly (even though it appears to have a
> plug to support this). Is this correct?

The XTB-IIR is a repeater.  It can also directly boost a transmitter plugged
into it, or act as the powerline interface for a higher end controller, such
as HomeVision, Ocelot, or Stargate.
>
> (c) Does the XTB-IIR need to be on its own set of dedicated breakers like
> the hardwired units from Smarthome?

Other than insuring it is wired per code, there is no reason why it needs a
dedicated set of breakers.  The XTB-IIR only consumes about a watt quescent,
and about 6 watts during transmission.

> (d) It seems like Jeff wants the XTB-IIR to be connected to a 3 or 4 prong
> outlet rather than being directly wired to the panel. Since I do not plan
> to plug any controller into it, it would be more convenient to hardwire it
> inside the main panel (if the box will fit in there) like one would with
> the other hardwired units. Is this possible/supported? If so, what are the
> dimensions of the XTB-IIR?

I recommend the receptacle so it is easy to disconnect if necessary.  There
have been several firmware upgrades that either resolved particular issues
or added capabilities..  From my experience with a SquareD breaker that
didn't disconnect power when switched off, I think it best to have the unit
totally disconnected when changing the PIC.  As many of us here know,
nothing should be installed inside an electrical panel other than the wiring
itself.

> (e) The lack of UL and the need to sign a waiver is a point of concern.
> Has anyone checked how this might affect their home owner's insurance
> should a fire happen (even if not the fault of the XTB-IIR)?

UL approved components are used in the high-voltage section.  Both the XTB
and XTB-IIR are fused.  Trace separation in the high voltage section exceeds
UL requirements.  I did investigate UL testing and also an alternate testing
laboratory, but the cost was prohibitive.  The price of these units would
have to double to ever recover the cost, and that would put them beyond the
reach of most X10 users.  Most of us don't have deep pockets like some of
the other automation users who contribute to this group.
>
> (f) How/why are Jeff's units better than this unit
> <http://www.smarthome.com/4820x.html> or this one
> <http://www.smarthome.com/4823.html> or this one
> <http://www.smarthome.com/4820ac.html>?

Those units have inexpensive transformerless power supplies.  The XTB and
XTB-IIR both have transformer power supplies that can deliver at least 20
times more X10 signal energy to the powerline than the units you describe.

Jeff