Re: CFLs flicker when Wall Swtich WS467 is OFF

["Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx>]

"Jim Hewitt" <jim.hewitt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:fqn0ll$9vd$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Howdy,
>
> I've been slowlyg trying CFLs in the house to see if they work OK wtih our
> X10 installation.  We've decided that the quality of light is acceptable
for
> the energy $ savings.
>
> But, when I put some (N:Vision from Home Depot) 60W CFLs in the kids' room
> overehad light, controlled by a WS467, everything was fine until I turned
> the lights off.  They don't go fully off!  We get a very low light
flicker,
> probably 5-10 times a second.  I triple-checked, the wall switch was not
> dimming the lights.

The N:Visions are the best of the CFL's I've tried so far, but with single
fixture overhead lights governed by a WS467, I get some pretty awful
results.  TGD in the X-10 support forum recently suggested a "fix" here that
involves inserting resistors into light fixtures:

http://www.x10community.com/forums/index.php?topic=14210.0

but a knowledgeable person I asked had profound reservations about such a
"fix" or more exactly the resistor ratings given as examples. It would be
*very* nice to maintain local sense and eliminate the flashing problems, but
it seems as if it's one or the other.  I'm in the midst of a complete rewire
of my house, bringing neutrals to places where I really want to use a CFL
bulb but can't because of the havoc it causes X-10.  It's a real bitch and
in many cases I am just running a new cable to a new fixture from the
basement up.  I want the option for tungsten in the real cold weather and
dual fixtures would allow that.  Not sure of the SAF, but I'll find out.
The light switch wires that came with the house go from the basement to the
attic and then fan out and drop down.  Not an easy task to add a neutral
wire.

It's too bad they haven't designed a CFL that simulates a tungsten bulb's
electrical properties more closely.   I just bought a brand new batch of
bulbs of various wattages from HD.  I've found the electronics in CFL's
varies from brand to brand and from batch to batch and I wouldn't be
surprised if someday they produce a bulb that's completely X-10 compatible.
And affordable.  (-:  So, let me save this message and try out the new bulbs
on my overhead lights.

(much "screwing" around . . .)

OK, I'm back.  I tried the brand new N:vision SKU 772-20 Model ES42 42W
V42836 (I hope that last number's not a firmware version number!) in the
hopes that the larger wattage and the more recent vintage would help and it
flickered.  I thought that the 13W load of the 60W "equivalent" bulb caused
problems because it was below the 25W threshold X-10 recommends for lamp
loads.  There was no difference between the two.  I took a camera and made a
swipe image at 1 second and counted 6 images of the bulb, so I believe it's
6 flashes per second.  (-:

> We get a very low light flicker,  probably 5-10 times a second.  I
triple-checked, the wall
> switch was not dimming the lights.

I think the module's electronics are not working and probably couldn't dim,
even if you wanted to dim them.  At least mine don't.  Unlike your lights,
there's no option to put in a smaller bulb to carry the trickle in my
overheads.  But in thinking about it more, running a big CFL at the ceiling,
base up isn't a good idea, even though my lamp shade allows good air
cooling.  Virtually every very premature failure I've had (20+ and counting)
with CFL bulbs has been in a base-up configuration.  I need to find some
torchiere lamps specifically designed for large CFL's so the bulb head
doesn't sit above the lamp rim.  Then I can use RF switches and perhaps even
preserve local control.

Anyone having this problem with N:Vision CFL's should report it to their
tech support hotline at 1-800-378-6998.  They can't find a solution for the
problem if they don't know it exists or how many people it affects.  My
three biggest gripes are:

1) The bulbs don't shut off completely and flicker about once a second,
sometimes for hours.  I know from the new HE shoplight that I bought that
this causes premature aging.  Only one bulb of the 2 strip 48" fixture
flashed, and that's the one that six months later has large dark spots at
the end of the bulb.

2) The lamps "relight" themselves, which I believe is an extension of number
one, but in this case, the trickle current doesn't just cause a flash, it
makes the module think the light switch has been "jiggled."

3) The problem you're having of the bulb flashing wildly in a fixture that
doesn't have a direct connection to a neutral wire.

I'd like dimming to be seamless, too, but I can live without it if I can get
some relief on one through three!

It may be that with some circuit redesign they can eliminate or ameliorate
some of the problems.  What I find most troublesome are lamps that test fine
when I first got them but as they age, begin emitting noise strong enough to
step on the X-10 signal.

--
Bobby G.