Re: pre-wire home - best practices?

[Frank Olson <use_the_email_links@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

John J. Bengii wrote:
> Don't bother with rg59 cables. Use RG-6 which is capable of satelite
> signal bandwidth also. Same connections.
>
> Dual cat5e (I think will handle 1Gbit) is a good idea. Just install
> plaster rings and staple a loop above it on the studs. Dummy plate the
> plaster rings off after drywall installation. If you ever need them,
> pull out the cable from the stud cavity and put a connector on both
> ends for use. If you don't ever use them, it will only cost you the
> wire and plaster ring (about $0.79). Leav lots of cable in the wall
> cavity for a direct connection to your entertainment server or
> computer. Forget the fancy wall connections. They cost big bucks and
> make another weak spot in your connections
>
> If you are building a two story or split level the upper floor is hard
> to access after the fact. Intsall a couple pieces of plastic pipe from
> attic to basement where you can put later cables through to the attic
> and drop to the needed place via the interior walls. You will need a
> to find a way to suspend the pipe so it doesn't fall through. Usually
> an exact sized hole and have the flange (female end) hang in the hole.
> Plug/tape  the ends for insulation and bug purposes. If you ever need
> another connection in the upper floor, attic diving will get your
> there. Wear a dust filter mask!
>
>
> Don't forget you back speakers and ceiling allows everybody to hear
> with both ears. Mine bounce off the back wall for an enhanced delay
> and lower sound image that is actually behind you.
>
> Heavy speaker wire? Cheap extension cords with heavy gauge wire used
> to be cheaper than buying the wire on a spool. Cut the ends off. Even
> drill all the holes and put a pull string in for later use. Make it a
> good one and pull another one with the new conductor, when you need
> it.
>
> Check out the price and life of those projector bulbs. $600 each and
> 2000 hours max life turned me off. YMMV There is a product called
> "goop" that can be painted on walls to avoid the $2K for a projector
> screen. Rim it with black felt trim so light spillover is not seen.


Also...  If the OP has any input at all as to where the attic access
point is, try to make it in an area of the roof that you can actually
stand up in (or where don't have to crouch and risk having the roofing
nails "hook you" or worse as you try to get inside).  One customer built
a 8' x 8' square "landing pad" around the hatch.  He achieved this by
nailing down 5/8" plywood on top of the joists (after filling the space
underneath with insulation batting).  He also provided a couple of
convenient plug ins for work lights (which were controlled by a light
switch in the access closet).  Nicest attic I ever worked in.