Re: Why cling to old X10?

[nick hull <nhull@xxxxxxx>]

In article <wOOdnc3AP5KtumXbnZ2dnUVZ_o2vnZ2d@xxxxxxx>,
 "Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> "nick hull" <nhull@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:nhull-B105C7.15592224092007@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > In article <QO2dnRhRWMQpFnrbnZ2dnUVZ_uKpnZ2d@xxxxxxx>,
> >  "Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> > >  While X-10 switches do work
> > > without a neutral, I have not had any that would work with CFL's in that
> > > particular configuration.  In my house, that's just the overhead
> fixtures
> > > which we rarely use anyway, so it's not too big a deal.  For others, it
> > > could be a real PITA.  I had one lamp seem to work at the front door but
> a
> > > few hours later the neighbors were asking "why is your front light
> > > flashing?" because they thought it was some sort of "help needed" alarm.
> > > (-:
> >
> > I've found cutting the x-10 sense circuit ends the cfl flashing
>
> I believe you might be talking about the flashing that occurs after some
> CFL's are turned off.  In this case, the lamp flashed while the switch was
> on and could only be turned off by operating the slide switch that allows
> for safe bulb changes..  It could not be turned off remotely and not even by
> the switch paddle.
>
> Just for my information, are you talking about appliance modules, and if so,
> what method do you use?  I used to snip the vertically-mounted diode but
> have found that doesn't work anymore with the latest batch of N-Vision CFL

I always use 2-wire appliance modules, mostly with 2x40 watt florescent
fixtures but occasionally CFLs.  I usually snip the vertical diode but
there are instructions on the web for newer models.

> bulbs.  I am aware that there's more than one current "sensectomy" surgery
> and more than one style of appliance module, so that complicates the matter.
> I had, at one point, thought about actually trying to measure the leakage
> current through the circuit but decided it might not yield meaningful
> results.  I recall discussing in email with one of the regulars that
> snipping may indeed defeat local sense, but there's still a small trickle
> current flowing through the module.  Not enough to kick over the "local
> sense" anymore, but enough to cause flashing in some of the newer bulb
> designs.
>
> There always seems to be a tradeoff of some kind.  )-:  The N-Vision bulbs
> don't require an X-10 filter, but they flash when extinguished.  The
> previous batch of GE bulbs didn't flash, but required a filter to isolate
> their bad effects on X-10 from the rest of the house wiring.

The only filter I am using is on my wife's (Dell) laptop and I made the
filter myself with a cheap surplus choke.  My own Mac and other
electronics does not seem to need filters but I will buy one of Jeff's
XTB repeaters when available ;0
>
> In any event, the front porch fixture's running from a WS467 wall switch and
> I haven't seen any mods on disabling local sense for those, although I admit
> I haven't looked.  I believe the general opinion of the experts here was
> that running CFL bulbs on light circuits without a neutral wire going to the
> switch box are likely to give trouble no matter what.  I agree with that
> diagnosis because the very same bulb ran fine on a lamp module that was
> plugged into an outlet that obviously supplied the unit with a neutral
> connection.  It's only the overhead lights in each room and the porch
> fixtures that won't work well with CFL's, and they are all wired without a
> neutral.
>
> --
> Bobby G.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/