Re: What can I replace this latching relay system with?

[Marc_F_Hult <MFHult@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 07:41:09 -0400, "Robert Green"
<ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
<gLWdnU-8JprsBlHZnZ2dnUVZ_rqdnZ2d@xxxxxxx>:

>
>You won't be able to do *anything* that passes code without a schematic
>of the original installation and lots of time spent with a meter, a wire
>tracing set and a pen and paper.

Bobby's hypothetical hyperbolic hippo-speak here and later in this post
does the newsgroup and those that want assistance a disservice in my
opinion.

I've been modifying, updating, repairing, and restoring wiring in old
houses for 30 years and *never once* has an inspector asked to see a
schematic. Nor have I owned or heard of  *any* old house that came with a
schematic.

>They are not likely to let you hook 110VAC devices to wires buried in
>walls they can't see, especially when there's a chance you may have
>inadvertently connected low power switches to 110VAX loads.

Apparently Bobby doesn't have much experience about what he writes, or he
wouldn't make such sweeping, misleading statements. (We know that he is
not purposefully being misleading, but the effect is still negative IMO.)
Last month (and on every other occasion I have had wiring inspected), the
inspector did exactly what Bobby said they are unlikely to do.

>That's why electrical inspections have to be done before the drywall goes
up.

You are referring to new construction. This is not new construction.

Rest of hippo-speak deleted.

Steve:  I assuming that you want a long-term solution (not "hometoys").

The approach that I have used with respect to meeting National Electrical
Code in retrofits and remodeling of old homes in the US is to design a
prototype/example and present the prototype to a local electrical
inspector prior to installation. My experience has been that inspectors
can have good ideas that they are willing to share and so improve your
project or make it less expensive.

The National Electrical Code has become progressively more specific with
respect to low voltage residential wiring which reduces the variability in
judgment and opinions of inspectors. This is a Good Thing in my opinion,
because it makes it easier to design and install a system that is
code-compliant.

A change, pertinent to your needs, was incorporated in the 1999 and
subsequent editions that allows for low-voltage control wiring to enter a
switch box also containing 120VAC wiring for the purpose of lighting
control. I found out the hard way that getting an inspector to accept this
was a crap shoot prior to 1999. By now, competent inspectors know about
this important (to your application) clarification.

And increasingly inspectors have experience with a broad range of
low-voltage wiring. For example, the inspector that was at my house last
month for a final inspection of my kitchen remodeling recognized instantly
and without prompting that the 4-conductor w/ ground, 10AWG cable sticking
out from the ceiling was for future low voltage lighting and was not being
inspected on that trip. Five years ago, I would have gotten a lecture on
how 10 gauge wire was not code for lighting on a 15-amp circuit ;-)

At the risk of exhibiting perseverative behavior, let me repeat my advice
that you work in advance with the electrical inspector. S/he may very well
have good ideas that you can use particularly, if there are other houses
in your area with similar low-voltage wiring.

(I've mostly bread-boarded the INSTEON over low voltage wiring test that I
wrote about earlier in this thread. I'll use CAT5 and other wire as the
communicating wire, two UL-listed Class 2, 24volt, 20VA "doorbell"
transformers  and four 0.22 ufd 250VAC capacitors removed as part of the
modification of 15amp, X10 PRO filters. Results to be posted to
www.ECOntrol.org/INSTEON0verCAT5.htm )

HTH ... Marc
Marc_F_Hult
www.ECOntrol.org