Re: Timer recommendation for porch lights

["Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx>]

"John Shepard" <nospam@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in

<stuff snipped>

> I recently tried out the Intermatic 15 Amp 120/240/277 Volt
> Digital 7-Day Programmable Time Switch only to find that it
> heats up! (the lights on the other side were two 60W bulbs).

> I like all the features that the Intermatic had but was
> disappointed with the excessive heat. BTW, the rating (volts,amps
> and power) matched the ordinary switch that I had on there
> before.

There are a lot of components inside that switch, if it's similar to the one
someone (was that you?) from Canada posted the PDF schematic link for a
month or so ago.  You're likely to find any such switch generates heat.
There are a number of things you can do to dissipate the heat.

First, I'd measure the current temperature with a thermometer.  I keep a <
$10 Ratshack indoor/outdoor model with a plastic encapsulated probe for just
such jobs.  If you're in the northern hemisphere, you're likely to record
the maximum temperature for such a device right about this time of year,
which is excellent.

When you've got an idea of how hot it runs, with the wallplate on,
preferably, then you know whether it's really a fire hazard (does it exceed
its label rating?) and whether your modifications had an effect.  Pull the
switch and knock out any remaining knockouts you can from the wallbox
(breakers OFF, please!) to assure good airflow around the switch.  Remove,
if you can, insulation above and below the switch and to the side away from
the stud.  In many new houses the wallboxes retain heat better than your
kitchen oven!

Some wallboxes can be partially disassembled, even when still attached to a
stud.  If it's the only box or the box furthest from the stud, you may be
able to mount a passive heatsink like the ones found on most PC's.  Some
lamp dimmers put out an alarming amount of heat, but are within code if the
heat doesn't exceeding the rating that should be found somewhere on the
switch body.

I'd measure the temp first, though, to find out whether you may have a duff
unit that Intermatic would replace for free.  They should at least be made
aware that you're unhappy about the heat output.  Being able to tell them
it's running at 140F when it's only rated for 120F might stimulate a
replacement unit from them, gratis.

Do you have any X-10 switches or any other non-mechanical switches?  I ask
because you may not be aware how much heat anything except a traditional
mechanical flip switch can generate in a confined space.  All these devices
require a power supply to convert AC to DC at low voltage, and that means
heat gets generated.

Oh, if you're not using one now, switching to a metal wallplate will help
dissipate even more heat from the switch.

I'm just afraid if you switch to an X-10 switch, you'll see the same kind of
heat problems.

--
Bobby G.