Re: LOL A Real On Topic Question!! Imagine that!!

[ABLE1 <somewhere@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

On 12/18/2020 10:40 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 12/18/2020 8:31 AM, alar...@xxxxxxx wrote:
>> On Thursday, December 17, 2020 at 8:59:19 PM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:
>>> On 12/17/2020 5:20 PM, alar...@xxxxxxx wrote:
>>>> On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 9:59:24 PM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:
>>>>> Hey guys!!
>>>>>
>>>>> I have serious question. I have a customer that has a
>>>>> door access keypad mounted on a single gang plastic box
>>>>> that it mounted on the side of a steel building next to
>>>>> the door. The keypad is a IEI 212W which is weather rated.
>>>>>
>>>>> The original keypad was installed 5+ years ago. Last week
>>>>> the customer reported that the code was not always working.
>>>>> It took a couple of tries on the keypad to get the code to
>>>>> energize the electric strike.
>>>>>
>>>>> When I got on site all looked good but I noticed that that
>>>>> not all keys were reliable. The decision was made to
>>>>> just replace the keypad. I ordered a new unit, same model,
>>>>> and installed two days later. Programmed and all was good.
>>>>>
>>>>> When removing the old keypad I noticed some rust on a few
>>>>> terminals. Upon further inspection back at my office
>>>>> I noticed some other areas on the circuit board that had
>>>>> some spots that may have been moisture related.
>>>>>
>>>>> First off this keypad was mounted with the supplied foam
>>>>> gasket and tight. The inside of the box was dry.
>>>>>
>>>>> The only opening to the box is where the wire penetrates
>>>>> the back from the inside wall cavity.
>>>>>
>>>>> The question is how did water get inside the box and on
>>>>> the keypad terminals and circuit board??
>>>>>
>>>>> I am thinking condensation. If I am right then how to
>>>>> fix the problem??
>>>>>
>>>>> This is where I stop typing and look to read possible
>>>>> solutions from the crowd.
>>>>>
>>>>> Oh and local temperatures range from 20F to 100F +/-
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for any thoughts!!
>>>>>
>>>>> Les
>>>> Hi Les,
>>>>
>>>> I've used this in the past
>>>>
>>>> https://www.grainger.com/product/4YPK3?gclid=CjwKCAiAoOz-BRBdEiwAyuvA6_dCmiZvE0i97xN2mxwzV_ASkF4RuFemFi-1zxMX8HtNMXSC23HoeBoChm4QAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAiAoOz-BRBdEiwAyuvA6_dCmiZvE0i97xN2mxwzV_ASkF4RuFemFi-1zxMX8HtNMXSC23HoeBoChm4QAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275738!!!g!470307065699!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Granted it was a long time ago, but I never had to go back and
>>>> change the keypad so it worked Ok.
>>>> Viking Telecom Solutions has an option on their outdoor products to
>>>> weather proof them but I don't know if they have a keypad or not.
>>>> Besides I think they all they do is just dip their PCB's in some
>>>> kind of gook and charge you another $100.00
>>>>
>>>> I'm thinking that just dipping (or painting) the PCB in some
>>>> polyurethane would do the same thing and last at least 5 or ten years.
>>>>
>>> Hey Jim,
>>>
>>> Now that is some serious STUFF!!
>>> Never heard of that before.
>>>
>>> I will have to source that at my local distributor.
>>> Grainger closed their local store a few years ago. I liked
>>> going there to pickup a specific thing or two. Always good
>>> to walk the isles to get ideas.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated.
>>>
>>> Les
>> Just Google CRC Urethane Seal Coat and I'm sure you can find it and
>> other brands of PCB seal coatings on line.
>>
>
> We used to use Scotch Coat on skinned underground cable.  Pretty good
> stuff.  If the damage was no more than than into the armor sheath it
> never failed.  Coat, tape, coat again.  For actual conductor damage we
> would use real splice kits filled with resin.  Anyway Scotch Coat is
> good stuff, but brush on.
>

Bob,

Maybe is should be spelled 3M ScotchKote.
Seems to look up better. :-)

Have a good weekend.

Les