Re: LOL A Real On Topic Question!! Imagine that!!

[Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>]

On 12/18/2020 8:31 AM, alar...@xxxxxxx wrote:
> On Thursday, December 17, 2020 at 8:59:19 PM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:
>> On 12/17/2020 5:20 PM, alar...@xxxxxxx wrote:
>>> On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 9:59:24 PM UTC-5, ABLE1 wrote:
>>>> Hey guys!!
>>>>
>>>> I have serious question. I have a customer that has a
>>>> door access keypad mounted on a single gang plastic box
>>>> that it mounted on the side of a steel building next to
>>>> the door. The keypad is a IEI 212W which is weather rated.
>>>>
>>>> The original keypad was installed 5+ years ago. Last week
>>>> the customer reported that the code was not always working.
>>>> It took a couple of tries on the keypad to get the code to
>>>> energize the electric strike.
>>>>
>>>> When I got on site all looked good but I noticed that that
>>>> not all keys were reliable. The decision was made to
>>>> just replace the keypad. I ordered a new unit, same model,
>>>> and installed two days later. Programmed and all was good.
>>>>
>>>> When removing the old keypad I noticed some rust on a few
>>>> terminals. Upon further inspection back at my office
>>>> I noticed some other areas on the circuit board that had
>>>> some spots that may have been moisture related.
>>>>
>>>> First off this keypad was mounted with the supplied foam
>>>> gasket and tight. The inside of the box was dry.
>>>>
>>>> The only opening to the box is where the wire penetrates
>>>> the back from the inside wall cavity.
>>>>
>>>> The question is how did water get inside the box and on
>>>> the keypad terminals and circuit board??
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking condensation. If I am right then how to
>>>> fix the problem??
>>>>
>>>> This is where I stop typing and look to read possible
>>>> solutions from the crowd.
>>>>
>>>> Oh and local temperatures range from 20F to 100F +/-
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any thoughts!!
>>>>
>>>> Les
>>> Hi Les,
>>>
>>> I've used this in the past
>>>
>>> https://www.grainger.com/product/4YPK3?gclid=CjwKCAiAoOz-BRBdEiwAyuvA6_dCmiZvE0i97xN2mxwzV_ASkF4RuFemFi-1zxMX8HtNMXSC23HoeBoChm4QAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAiAoOz-BRBdEiwAyuvA6_dCmiZvE0i97xN2mxwzV_ASkF4RuFemFi-1zxMX8HtNMXSC23HoeBoChm4QAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275738!!!g!470307065699!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231
>>>
>>> Granted it was a long time ago, but I never had to go back and change the keypad so it worked Ok.
>>> Viking Telecom Solutions has an option on their outdoor products to weather proof them but I don't know if they have a keypad or not. Besides I think they all they do is just dip their PCB's in some kind of gook and charge you another $100.00
>>>
>>> I'm thinking that just dipping (or painting) the PCB in some polyurethane would do the same thing and last at least 5 or ten years.
>>>
>> Hey Jim,
>>
>> Now that is some serious STUFF!!
>> Never heard of that before.
>>
>> I will have to source that at my local distributor.
>> Grainger closed their local store a few years ago. I liked
>> going there to pickup a specific thing or two. Always good
>> to walk the isles to get ideas.
>>
>> Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated.
>>
>> Les
> Just Google CRC Urethane Seal Coat and I'm sure you can find it and other brands of PCB seal coatings on line.
>

We used to use Scotch Coat on skinned underground cable.  Pretty good
stuff.  If the damage was no more than than into the armor sheath it
never failed.  Coat, tape, coat again.  For actual conductor damage we
would use real splice kits filled with resin.  Anyway Scotch Coat is
good stuff, but brush on.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com