[Message Prev][Message Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Message Index][Thread Index]

Re: wire stripper recommendation



"CH®IS" wrote:
>
> Very true.  I've seen one system (an 864 with 16 or less
> zones) with two panels.  One for the panel, expander,
> battery, etc. and the other a foot above it for splices.
> One entire 12" x 12" DSC can entirely dedicated to a rats
> nest of splices.

Yep.  I've run across a lot like that.  One of my favorites was an old Moose
system we took over.  The wiring inside the panel was neat as a pin.  There was
a large knockout in the back of the panel.  Behind it the drywall had about a 4"
x 4" hole cut out.  I needed to meter one of the zones that was showing open.  I
pulled on the pair coming into the panel from the wall and a literal *ball* of
wiring pulled up against the knockout.  This thing looked like a loose fitting
yarn ball of wire.  There were B connectors on some of the scores of connections
in there, but most were just wires twisted together and taped -- no B, no
solder, nada.  It took about two hours to clean up the mess, find the open
circuit and replace a faulty mag switch -- a job that should have taken 15
minutes.

> The only time I hopefully need to have connectors in a
> panel are for EOL's for recessed contacts....

EOL's in the panel?  Agkkk!

> I'll rarely put them at the contact just to reduce the
> wiring mess and need to tear the door frame apart later
> on just to change a resistor (ie: switch to a different
> panel).

I'd put them at the contact or program them out of the system.  With PIRs and
such it's simpler to put the EOL inside the detector.

> In this case though, I'll often take a 1" piece of insulation,
> slide it over the zone wire (not common, then you have
> to mess with the wiring to see which zone has the
> resistor on it), twist the resistor and zone wire very neatly
> and tight... bend it back and slide the insulation over the
> splice... trim the other end of the resistor and wire it in.
> Sure, it would be recommended to solder this splice
> too... but the way I twist them I'm not concerned with
> them ever falling apart....

I don't know, man.  I'd rather just solder and never have to give it a second
thought.  Each to his own though.
>
> The only time I use these now is when it's easy
> enough to remove that piece of door trim....

Understood, but I prefer not to have to touch the trim ever once the job is
done.  I'm not faulting you for this but I think you'd save yourself more
potential grief if you'd solder and then tape or shrink wrap.  It takes seconds
to make the solder connection.  BTW, if you use one of those the little butane
solder torches you don't have to drag a wired solder gun around and the whole
deal, solder and all, fits in a pocket of your tool belt.  I know B's are faster
but solder is like herpes.  It lasts forever.

> Splice it together and leave a little extra wire behind the trim.  Otherwise I
> use the stubby recessed contacts with the terminals. Much faster/easier to
> install and work with later on as well.  If you must use them though, I find
> it's best to stagger your splices and then tape the whole mess into the
> slimmest possible shape.  Hopefully this way it doesn't snag anything.

I always staggered my splices but not so they wouldn't snag.  I used straight
through splicing so the end product was about the same diameter as the cable.  I
did so that it in case the tape should ever get loose there wouldn't be a short.

> I pretty well do the same thing, even down to bringing the wires in from the
> top left corner.  Except that I'll have enough wire to almost hit the bottom
> of the panel and go to it's zone/whatever using a more natural curve.

Either way works.  As long as you're consistant the end result is highly
"readable" and easy to service.

> The phone jack fits nicely in between this curve and the
> battery fits nicely on the right side of the wiring.  Usually
> I'll have the phone jacks wire stuffed behind the panel
> since it won't cooperate any other way.

I used to put the RJ31X beneath the main PCB on my Napco systems.  The board
stands off from the back of the cabinet far enough to fit the RJ and a siren
driver neatly behind with just the screw terminals showing from the driver
board.  That left more space along the batter in case I needed anything else,
like a relay board or whatever.  Napco is nice for that, considering their PCBs
are on the large side compared to DSC and such.

Years ago I got a lot of flak from the IB for putting my RJs inside the locked
panels.  The thing is I trust the homeowner to make sure the RJ is plugged back
in after a service visit better than I trust telco employees.  I know, I know.
How could I *ever* distrust those reputable telco boys.  :^)

> The 90 degree bend thing looks great at first, until you
> have to change something or check something, then
> it all goes downhill from there.

Not if you do the same thing every time you service it.  As mentioned earlier,
as long as you're consistant it'll be fine.

> Some I've seen have the wiring come in from the
> top, cable tied straight down to the bottom, cable
> tied across the bottom halfway, cable tied up to
> about half an inch to the bottom of the board, run
> straight left or right to where ever it's going, then
> up into it's appropriate terminal, then when it's finished, cable tied across
> there too...

Sounds like somone bought stock in a wire tie manufacturer.  :^)

> The worst way has to be running the wiring in from
> the back of the panel in the middle...

Yep.  See my comment above about just that.

> ... including through the front before you realize you
> need to close the door (some days are long because
> they're long... some days are long because you get
> stupid)

Heh, heh, heh... :^)

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

==============================>
Bass Home Electronics
DIY Alarm and Home Automation Store
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
Sales & Service 941-870-2310
Fax 941-870-3252
==============================>



alt.security.alarms Main Index | alt.security.alarms Thread Index | alt.security.alarms Home | Archives Home