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Re: ok, what's the trick?



nick markowitz wrote:
> On Mar 6, 1:45 pm, Jim <alarmi...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>> On Mar 6, 12:00 pm, "Christopher Glaeser" <nos...@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>> Got a new Altronix power supply. The punch-outs don't seem to be punched
>>> out enough. Should I be able to remove one by pushing hard from the inside
>>> with a large screw driver? Or punch with a hammer? Or, is it possible
>>> these were only partially punched? I've pushed and banged pretty hard, and
>>> they don't budge.
>>> Best,
>>> Christopher
>> Whenever this happens to me I always think............
>>
>> I hope the SOB who's responsible for this is buried alive in a box and
>> his only means of of getting air, is by getting one of his f*#@ing
>> knockouts open.
>
> I use a step drill bit  this way can is not bent . problem comes down
> to bad punch dies not cutting properly.
> manufactuer should know better before shipping out.


Y'know...  You've really gotta wonder about some electricians.  This
guy's installing a fire alarm system (Edwards Quickstart).  There's a
knockout next to the high voltage connection terminal for the
transformer on the lower left of the can.  The conduit wound up
terminating about 1/2" below where the knockout was.  I'll give you one
guess (you don't get three) where he drilled the hole rather than
bending the pipe up just a little...  "But it wouldn't look neat," he
says...  "Who cares?" I say, "It's behind the drywall.  No-one's ever
going to see it."

Then there's another electrician that can't take the time to read the
freakin' manual.  The Potter 9000 states that power for the control has
to enter through one of the side knockouts provided, and the low
voltage/power limited wire has to enter through the top.  The conduit
(for the SLIC loop comes up through the floor) which means...  you
guessed it...  He's drilled into the bottom of the can.  The AC comes
from the top of the can...  so why not use the convenient knockout
located there...  And to keep things really neat, let's tie-wrap the AC
and the SLIC loop wiring together down the inside of the can...
Da-ooooohhh!


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