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Re: home alarm system?



Robert L Bass wrote:


> Joe's advice is correct.  However, most local (and virtually all
> national) alarm companies will decline to work on the system unless you
> sign a multi-year monitoring contract.  The terms and prices vary wildly
> from one provider to the next fir essentially similar services so shop
> around a bit.

On the contrary...  most *local* dealers aren't going to turn down a
service call as long as the customer is willing to "pony up".  Count on
a two hour minimum charge and make sure you understand exactly what that
is going to be (inclusive of any "fuel surcharges") *before* you order
service.

>
> Regarding breaks in homeowner's insurance, the discount is usually nn%
> of the burglary or fire coverage -- not the whole package.  For example,
> our homeowner's policy costs around $8,000 a year.  The 10% discount for
> an alarm system isn't 10% of $8,000.  It's 10% of $800, or $80.
> Monitoring by any of the local outfits around Sarasota would run about
> $300 a year.  A colleague, www.911Alarm.com, charges $12 a month.  Net
> cost is $64 per year.

I would imagine the cost of your insurance is so high because of the
recent losses the various insurers have had to cover because of the
hurricanes that frequent your area.  Wow...  That really sucks (pardon
the pun).


>
> One thing you need to be especially careful about if you have an alarm
> company service and/or monitor the system for you is that pesky lockout
> code (the same one you're having trouble with at present).  Most alarm
> companies use them to make it more difficult / costly for customers to
> switch service providers.

Actually, the reason alarm companies use a unique installer code on a
monitored alarm panel is to prevent an unathorized (untrained)
individual from compromising the system.  It has to do with the
liability aspects involved, and has no "nefarious" or underhanded
reason.  In fact, most alarm companies will release the panel if you
decide you no longer wish it to be monitored and want to use it as a
"local" system (as long as you *own* the equipment and don't owe them
any money).


> Some will give you the code or default it for
> you for a price once you pay for nn years of monitoring.  Others won't
> give you the code, even to equipment which you own, no matter what you do.

Again...  that depends on whether or not you "own" the equipment (or owe
them money).  Brinks (for instance) doesn't sell alarm panels (so they
say) so any panel with their sticker on it actually *belongs* to them.
They also won't program it as a "local system", but will insist on
recovering the equipment if you don't decide to employ their monitoring
service.


>
> If you like to tinker you might want to consider buying a control panel
> and doing the job yourself.  It's not particularly difficult though
> you'll need a modicum of tool skills and a bit of patience to get the
> hang of it.  If that's not your idea of a fun way to spend a Saturday,
> take Joe's advice and check out a few local alarm dealers.  Ask
> neighbors who they use and how they like the service.  Either way, best
> of luck.
>

Either way, it's better to deal with a local alarm dealer (if you can
find a "friendly" one) that will sell you just the equipment.  Don't
expect them to honour the warranty if you decide to power up the system
after you do all the connections.  I'd suggest doing the swap, and
terminating all the devices then pay the dealer the $100.00 to come out
and power it up for you.  He'll ensure you've done everything correctly
and will then be in a position to replace anything you've purchased from
him (under warranty).  Warranty claims are extremely difficult to
process if you've bought the equipment "online".  In fact, most
wholesalers and manufacturers won't deal with end users directly (but
only through a recognized dealer).

My best advice is to buy an upgraded panel (as I suggested in my
previous response) and don't bother "fiddling" with that PC-1500.  Jim
Rojas (at www.tech-man.com) will probably take it off your hands.  :-)


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