Re: contact window

["Crash Gordon" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

He already did an put a copyright on it.

Anyway...you didn't see the bottom flange that fits into the bottom weather
seal groove of the bottom window...maybe Dremel tool time on that.


"Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1161744792.199919.61540@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
|
| Don wrote:
| > Gotta minute?  How would you guys contact this window?  Gonna prewire
about
| > 50 of um.  Any suggestions?
| > http://www.vetterwindows.com/Vetter%20ARG/pdf/Wood%20Double%20Hung.pdf
| > Clad wood double hung is the first drawing.
| > TIA
|
|
| Ok I guess I've got to teach all you guys how to do this.
|
|
|
| There's obviously always enough room on the bottom sill to drill a 3/8
| inch hole for a recessed switch close to ( but not butt up against)
| the outside edge of the inside window sill.
| Drill the hole straight down, not at an angle. Then use a counter sink
| to ream the edge
| of the hole so that even though the switch is sitting straight down in
| the angled sill
| the switch will sit flush and a little below the angle of the sill.....
| in a slight recess. You want to drill straight down so the drill bit
| doesn't come out of the wall before you get to the bay. Also, if it's
| new construction, and the molding isn't on yet, you'll leave the switch
| and or the wires exposed to the trim guy.
| Order your 3/8 contacts without magnets.
|
| Now you take a dowel center punch and set it in the 3/8 hole and bring
| the sash down so that the dowel punch leaves a mark in the bottom of
| the sash, directly opposite the
| center of the hole. This indent will usually wind up somewhere between
| the weather strip and the inside edge of the sash.
|
| Order 1/4 inch rare earth magnets which will fit between the weather
| strip and the inside
| edge of the sash. counter bore the hole ( ie flat bottom bit) on the
| bottom of the sash between the weather strip and the inside edge of the
| sash. Even if the indent from the dowel center punch didn't wind up
| between the weather strip and the inside of the sash, put the magnet
| there anyway, just lined up with the mark. The rare earth mag will
| still hold it in.
| I get Tane rare earth 1/4 inch magnets, only because they're
| convenient. They have to be cemented in and caulked, because they don't
| have a center hole.
|
| On the top sash, order your surface contacts without magnets. Drill
| through the side top of the window as close to the top and sash, as you
| can. Above the track, where the hole can't be seen, if you can.
| Sometimes you can or have to drill up, but then you have to caulk/hide
| the hole. Use a surface mount switch mounted a half to one inch away
| from the side track. To avoid the magnet from being knocked off when
| the sashes pass one another,  after you've mounted the switch, close
| the sash and put a mark on the sash where one end of the switch is.
| Just inside the switch side of the line, drill a counter bore hole for
| the 1/4 inch rare earth mag as close to the top edge of the sash as you
| can, without taking a chance that you wont leave enough meat .....
| Cement and then cover the hole and magnet with caulking. People usually
| don't mind the surface mount on the top sash and I use it rather than
| another recessed, because it saves time.
|
| Been doing it this way for about 4/5years now. It's a little elaborate
| with a number of steps but if you do it production style, ( perform the
| same operation on all the windows at the same time) it works great.
|
| I haven't posted this before because I know Jack-off Bass is going to
| steal it ..... but what the hell.
|