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Re: foam



I've been on many service calls with sprayfoam & 3/8 recessed contacts on
all the windows & doors. Sometimes these foam guys are on a crusade of
somekind. There have been times that I could not pull the service loop out,
not matter how gentle I was. I wasn't able to get enough wire to use a screw
terminal contact, let alone reach the beanies.

That's why I like to use surface contacts on all the windows. At least you
can cut off the leads and easily place a terminal contact. Placing a piece
of PVC pipe in the door header to protect the wires makes it easy to get to
the beanies. On service calls however, we generally replace bad contacts
with terminal screw types, for speed and for future service.

Jim Rojas



"G. Morgan" <alarmpro@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:fdqpm25ft5je4k59lsdhiiqvo5f3kjdapd@xxxxxxxxxx
> On Tue, 28 Nov 2006 20:36:01 -0500, "Don" <don@xxxxxx> wrote:
>
>>Checking on progress at new house and see this ones insulated with the
>>foam.
>>Can't pull service loop out at doors or windows.  Luckily I was out of
>>3/8"
>>plugs when I pulled the wires and had left 4"-6" of wire tied in a knot at
>>every window.  But for future  I gotta come up with a new way to leave a
>>service loop on prewires with this foam insulation.  Once that stuff dries
>>you can't pull wires out!  Glad I went by so i could dig a little room out
>>before window trim goes on.  Coil up right under hole?  Any ideas?
>
>
> You're using plugs?  Damn man just put the freekin contact in @
> prewire to save a bunch of grief.
>
> I haven't had that much trouble with the foam, if any is in the way I
> can usually scrape it out with a small screwdriver.  Someone mentioned
> acetone would melt the foam, I've never tried that.
>
> --
>
> -Graham
>
> (delete the double e's to email)




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