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Re: Surge Protection?
Gotchya, thank you. Not sure why the two grounds was bothering me, maybe I
was thinking ground loop or something. I would have ensured the plumbing was
grounded at the panel as well but I'll just leave the inlet ground as per
instead. And thank you for the detailed response.
"w_tom" <w_tom1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:430E593B.6532028B@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> A knot in a wire will increase inductance. Inductance means
> a transient will be attenuated. Therefore that inductance is
> lightning protection - if we ignore the numbers. We apply
> numbers. Now that inductance is so trivial as to attenuate by
> almost zero amount.
>
> This demonstrates the problem with those who make
> recommendations and cannot provide numbers. Once we apply the
> numbers, then reality puts those claims into perspective.
> Claims made without numbers is akin to 'lying by telling half
> truths'. A wire knot is surge protection .... useless surge
> protection because it will not sufficiently stop or block what
> even three miles of sky could not accomplish.
>
> Wire inductance is also why that 30 foot connection to a
> water pipe is not effective earthing for the 'whole house'
> protector. So that lightning does not seek other paths to
> earth via household appliances, that earthing wire from 'whole
> house' protector to the single point earth ground must be
> short, direct, and independent. Short as in 'less than 10
> feet' to minimize inductance. Direct as in no splices, no
> sharp bends, and not inside metallic pipe or conduit; again to
> minimize inductance. The protector is only as effective as
> its earth ground which is why wire impedance to earth must be
> minimized.
>
> Minimum wire inductance from each incoming utility wire to
> earth ground (either via a 'whole house' protector or by
> direct wire) is for transistor safety. Wire inductance is not
> relevant when earthing for human safety. Wire inductance is
> why earthing for transistor safety often must exceed National
> Electrical Code (NEC) requirements.
>
> A water pipe ground must remain (and is required) for human
> safety. Any wire that connects to a water pipe must remove
> electricity from that pipe. Any electricity accidentally
> shorted to water pipes - either inside the house or outside -
> would be shunted to electric box safety ground. That water
> pipe connection is a human safety ground and is too long (too
> much impedance) for transistor safety ground.
>
> 00 gauge wire to earth ground may be much larger than
> required. The typical residential earth ground - for both
> human safety and for transistor safety - is often large enough
> at 4 AWG. Sounds like by going through the foundation rather
> than over it, you have installed a superior earthing
> connection; shorter connection with less wire bends.
>
> mikey wrote:
> > I lost you with the knot thing. Are you just plucking this from
> > your cranium or a particular book, article or what have you? I've
> > always found thus a fascinating subject if there's more to read.
> >
> > I'm planning on whole house protection here and wasn't happy
> > with the water inlet 30 ft away so I dug down outside the panel
> > and dropped a ground plate, drilled thru foundation and ran 6ft
> > bare 00 (whatever, thick) back to ground at the panel. Should I
> > leave the original connection to the water main???
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