Re: Interfacing alarm panel to satellite phone

["Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx>]

Okitoki wrote:
> I too have a question on this topic...
>
> How do get the DSC control panel and its peripherals to be sea-worthy?
> I mean I hooked up a system to my own yacht once and the panel all
> oxidized in around 6 months. I noticed that I had to use special
> cabling, special IPXX rated boxes, etc. I didn't bother to do it again
> so I threw the panel out. But just out of curiousity: HOW DID YOU DO
> IT???
>
> Thanks..

No motion detectors in boats. Too many things moving around. Too much
heat when cabin is secured. Guess what may happen when the boat is in
it's slip and the guy in the next slip keys his 25 watt, VHF radio?

 Most standard alarm components are not manufactured to withstand the
corrosion that occurs on a boat and will usually fail within a couple
of seasons. When I install this kind of item, I will completely
disassemble the unit, spray the electronics with waterproofing,
multiple coats. Then when mounting and wiring, I will seal it with duct
tape and silicone, as appropriate, as the last step, after final
testing the system.


Contact on the ports and hatches if you can. I've used PE beams ****in
the cabin****  with great success. But the best system overall is the
Sure Action stess sensor system used in addtion to contacts on hatches
and perhaps a beam or two, depending upon the size of the boat. It's
expensive but any  system you would put on a boat is going to be
expensive. Keep in mind, if you've never done this before, that it is
MOST IMPORTANT to comply with US Coast Guard regulations with regard to
spark retardation in any type of equipment, it's placement, the wiring
and connections. This, to avoid igniting gasoline fumes.  Marine type
wire must be used or it will corrode. DON'T use plain copper wire and
only use stranded wire ... never solid wire. It's a must to use
stainless steel hardware and anti ultra violet plastic wire ties. The
list goes on and on, so be sure you know what you are doing before you
just put any old system in a boat. I find that it's a common
misconception by many installers and boat owners alike, that a boat
alarm is similar to a car alarm installation. Believe  me, it's not.

It still amazes me that someone who owns a half a million dollar boat
with $20,000.00 worth of electronics, and all kinds of TV's, DVD's,
fishing poles worth thousands of dollars, ..... when you tell him it's
going to cost a thousand or two to alarm his boat, they just wont pay
the price. They'd just rather lock it up with a $5.00 cam lock and
leave the boat tied up at the dock all week long, accessable by anyone,
at any time. Just as you experienced, they'll either try to do it
themselves, using standard equipment or hire someone who *SAYS* they
know how to install a marine system with the same results. Within a
season or two, the system will rust out. My experience in on salt water
boating. Fresh water boating will require a few more years to
disintegrate. I'd say the most important thing is your wiring
connections and use and placement of equipment with regard to spark
retardation. I've seen some of the local marine electronic companys who
advertise boat alarms, do some of the worst systems ...... ever.

The proof of what I say is in the fact that I installed my system over
ten years ago and only had a photo beam fail, so far. For customers,
I've got systems still working well over 15 years now. Using standard
equipment but installed to my spec's.

Sure Action  Inc/ 800 648 4301/ www.sureaction.com